Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-04-20, 04:02:

Hello all I read all the topic and I need some help :) I own also a tuv4x and had some bad caps at the top near the cpu socket. […]
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Hello all
I read all the topic and I need some help 😀
I own also a tuv4x and had some bad caps at the top near the cpu socket. They were like 6-7 bad caps.
I went to an electrician and he changed all the bad caps with some random brand or maybe unbranded.
Also the values of the caps are 2 different types. 4 of them have the same value of the original ones(6.3v 1500uf) but 3 of them are 1800uf 16v.
The board always crashes and gives cpu voltage error or something like that.

Because of that I think that the problem is related to the caps and will replace the caps.
I live in Turkey and dont have much options other than aliexpress for buying the caps.
So can you please suggest me caps for the 2 main cap recapping the 1500uf 6.3v and 1000uf 6.3v ones.

Can I use these ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32572498118.h … .3173497eQTcg2h

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000828682746 … .47603d62ypqDMz

Thanks a lot

I would hesitate to use an Aliexpress supplier for caps unless I knew they consistently provided genuine parts. Too many fakes floating around.

Many of the usual players have an online presence for Turkey. See what selection they've got for caps.
https://www.mouser.com.tr/
https://tr.rsdelivers.com/
https://tr.farnell.com/

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-23, 21:58:

I would hesitate to use an Aliexpress supplier for caps unless I knew they consistently provided genuine parts. Too many fakes f […]
Show full quote

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-04-20, 04:02:

Hello all I read all the topic and I need some help :) I own also a tuv4x and had some bad caps at the top near the cpu socket. […]
Show full quote

Hello all
I read all the topic and I need some help 😀
I own also a tuv4x and had some bad caps at the top near the cpu socket. They were like 6-7 bad caps.
I went to an electrician and he changed all the bad caps with some random brand or maybe unbranded.
Also the values of the caps are 2 different types. 4 of them have the same value of the original ones(6.3v 1500uf) but 3 of them are 1800uf 16v.
The board always crashes and gives cpu voltage error or something like that.

Because of that I think that the problem is related to the caps and will replace the caps.
I live in Turkey and dont have much options other than aliexpress for buying the caps.
So can you please suggest me caps for the 2 main cap recapping the 1500uf 6.3v and 1000uf 6.3v ones.

Can I use these ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32572498118.h … .3173497eQTcg2h

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000828682746 … .47603d62ypqDMz

Thanks a lot

I would hesitate to use an Aliexpress supplier for caps unless I knew they consistently provided genuine parts. Too many fakes floating around.

Many of the usual players have an online presence for Turkey. See what selection they've got for caps.
https://www.mouser.com.tr/
https://tr.rsdelivers.com/
https://tr.farnell.com/

I know the problem about the chinese sellers but I dont have so much technical knowlage to find the caps in the sites you have provided.
for example every 1500μF 6.3v will not do the job I think

Fair enough. Ideally you'll still have the old caps or will have documented the manufacturer and series markings so we can find you a close match. They'll probably be either low or ultra low ESR caps, so I could potentially guess, but I'd prefer not to.

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-24, 04:49:

Fair enough. Ideally you'll still have the old caps or will have documented the manufacturer and series markings so we can find you a close match. They'll probably be either low or ultra low ESR caps, so I could potentially guess, but I'd prefer not to.

So do I need low or ultra low esr

https://tr.farnell.com/w/c/passive-components … searchlookahead

I just reviewed earlier in the post. I recommend you use the caps outlined previously:

Replace capacitors
Rubycon YXG 1000uF 6.3v 8x16mm ESR= 0.087 Ω IRip= 840 mA
with capacitors
Nichicon UHE 1000uF 6.3V 8x15mm ESR = 0.087 Ω IRip = 840 mA

Replace capacitors
Nichicon HD 1500uF 6.3v 10x20mm ESR= 0.023 Ω IRip= 1820 mA
with capacitors
Panny FR 1500uF 6.3V 10x20mm ESR = 0.019 Ω IRip = 2180 mA

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-24, 16:37:

I just reviewed earlier in the post. I recommend you use the caps outlined previously: […]
Show full quote

I just reviewed earlier in the post. I recommend you use the caps outlined previously:

Replace capacitors
Rubycon YXG 1000uF 6.3v 8x16mm ESR= 0.087 Ω IRip= 840 mA
with capacitors
Nichicon UHE 1000uF 6.3V 8x15mm ESR = 0.087 Ω IRip = 840 mA

Replace capacitors
Nichicon HD 1500uF 6.3v 10x20mm ESR= 0.023 Ω IRip= 1820 mA
with capacitors
Panny FR 1500uF 6.3V 10x20mm ESR = 0.019 Ω IRip = 2180 mA

Thanks m8

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-04-24, 17:55:

Thanks m8

NP. Best of luck.

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-24, 18:05:

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-04-24, 17:55:

Thanks m8

NP. Best of luck.

Hello I changed the different ones but the no post screen or random freezes continue 🙁

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-05-24, 19:18:

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-24, 18:05:

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-04-24, 17:55:

Thanks m8

NP. Best of luck.

Hello I changed the different ones but the no post screen or random freezes continue 🙁

What model of power supply and what condition is it in?

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-05-24, 21:59:

Mad_Wolf wrote on 2020-05-24, 19:18:

gdjacobs wrote on 2020-04-24, 18:05:

NP. Best of luck.

Hello I changed the different ones but the no post screen or random freezes continue 🙁

What model of power supply and what condition is it in?

its an old elan vital tg-2306-b
235 watt psu

Although the psu is working fine with other systems will try with another psu but my hopes are low

update
when installing sb live system froze again tried with different live card froze again(changed slots nothing change)
When using hiren cd for partition wizard froze again, at the second try worked normal

PCBONEZ wrote on 2019-12-22, 23:34:

The standard practice (of professional techs) for a "full" mobo recap (which is not really full but that's what it's called) is […]
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The standard practice (of professional techs) for a "full" mobo recap (which is not really full but that's what it's called) is to...
.. replace all that are:
1: Physically 6mm diameter or larger
2: Capacitance 470uf or larger.
As long as you use the correct caps and assuming the only problem is caps that will fix 99+% of motherboards.
Most of those caps are devoted to reducing ripple directly from the PSU, VRM or larger POL regulators.
They have the "high stress jobs" and that standard range of caps should get all of them.
.
The small 5mm or less and 220uF or less wet-lytics caps do fail too but they have different jobs and see a lot less stress so they don't fail very often.
(Notable exceptions are boards using OST (brand) and early Intel made P4 boards that used 85°C Nichicons for the small caps. Both of those fail often and can fail en masse.)
470uF are usually on the output of a good sized POL regulator. (An LDO or a MOSFET.)
330uF caps and 470uF @ 5mm are grey areas. They may be used for high or low stress jobs.
The 330uF and larger 220uF were common in onboard sound but they also show up as surge suppressors for I/O ports such as USB, LAN and LPT.
.
.
On motherboards and in PSUs 6.3v and 10v can be used interchangeably. (That gives you more choices for replacement caps.)
On those boards 9v is not used and the next voltage is 12v so you know both 6.3v and 10v are on 5v or less.

You must check by the CPU Vcc for the socket but in most cases the CPU side of the VRM is a low voltage so in many cases 4v and even 2.5v caps are fine there.

For wet-lytics use low ESR Japanese caps. (There are many discussions of why in other threads already.)
If you don't know caps you have a better than 50% chance of getting counterfeits if you buy at rip-off bay.
Some of the higher end ranges are no longer in production by anyone at all. Polymer is the only option left for those.
(Range meaning the Ripple/ESR ratings relative to the Capacitance.)
Suncon (formerly Sanyo) still makes their WG series which is equivalent to Rubycon MBZ and the only still in production wet-lytic cap I know of in that range.
Unfortunately Sanyo/Suncon are very popular with the counterfeiters and some of the fakes are very good visually.
Fake Nichicon and Chemicon are also popular.
Chemicon KZG and KZJ have issues (high failure rates) even though they are Japanese.

Focusing on uF and Volts is a newbie mistake that everyone makes at first.
You need to start your replacements search after looking up the specs for the original caps.

The ESR and Ripple specs matter the more than the uF (Capacitance) for this capacitor application.
ESR has to do with their primary job and should not be 'fudged' to a higher value.
The Ripple rating has to do with their primary job and should not be 'fudged' to a lower value.
Capacitance has to do with their secondary job and can be 'fudged' [up] by one standard value without issue.
Fudging Capacitance down is a bad idea because Capacitance goes down as caps age.
-- VRM wet-lytic caps did not have those large uF values because they need all that uF in the VRM.
-- In order to get the very high Ripple and very low ESR characteristics they wanted in VRM they had to use physically large caps (and/or more caps) and all that uF came as part of the deal. The Ripple/ESR ratings were the driver, the uF was incidental.
(You can see this by evaluating 'transitional' boards meaning boards where the early revs had wet-lytics and later revs had polymers.)
~ NOT Rules, just general observations.~
3300uF/2200uF were commonly replaced by 820 or 680 uF Polys.
1800uF were commonly replaced by 680-560 uF Polys.
1500uF and less were commonly replaced by 560-470 uF Polys.
The "high side" (PSU side/16v caps side) of VRMs sometimes got polys with as little as 4x330uF or 3x470uF.
- The point is that (pertaining to caps that filter PSU/MOSFET/LDO ripple) the Ripple and ESR are the more critical design considerations. Capacitance matters but it is secondary.

If you go the polymer route.
Pay attention to the Ripple and ESR ratings. It's still not all about Capacitance.
They make a wide range of poly caps now. Not all are rated better than the better low ESR wet-lytics.
The brand doesn't matter much. I've heard of no brand that has issues with their polymers.**
[** Not counting early Fujitsu Functional Polymers (now Nichicon "FP Caps"). Those are not solid, but rather a hybrid between wet-lytic and solid polymer. The problems were only with some of the very early black-yellow versions made before about 2001. The later ones (even the later Black/Yellow) are fine.]
- Out of habit I still prefer to buy Japanese brands of polys when I can find what I need.
As long as the ESR and Ripple ratings are as good or better than the original cap you can go to a smaller uF.
How much smaller is a judgement call. Look at what is used on newer boards as a guide.
.

Hi!!

Almost 2 years ago, I understood, but now, as I'm starting to buy the caps, I have a doubt about the voltage, not about capacitance or ESR....

In this entire topic, I think we didn't talk about voltages.

Generally speaking, what's the voltages for the polymers?

Is there some general rule?

I'm asking cause, searching around, I saw people using 820uf@2.5v polymers caps, replacing, sometimes, 6.3v and maybe 16v wet-litics.

Today, I really tried to use a multimeter to measure the voltages, but I think, probably, ythere is some general rule for this.

Probably, I'll start with a TUV4x (See attachment).

Yellow - 1500uF/6.3v 14
Red - 1000uF/6.3v 11
Blue - 470uF/6.3v 2
Pink - 100uF/16v 2
Green - 10uf/25v 4

Exploring one local shop, I'm thinking about using Fujitsu 470uf@6.3v for replacing Red and Blue ones.

For yellows, I think there is not good options in the shop, cause all 820uf available are 2.5v.

For pink and green, I'm think about Fujitsu 100uf@16v.

Note that this map maybe wrong, I did it with a internet picture, cause my TUV4x is stored in a hard place.

Thank you!

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 17:14:

Hi!! […]
Show full quote

Hi!!

Almost 2 years ago, I understood, but now, as I'm starting to buy the caps, I have a doubt about the voltage, not about capacitance or ESR....

In this entire topic, I think we didn't talk about voltages.

Generally speaking, what's the voltages for the polymers?

Is there some general rule?

I'm asking cause, searching around, I saw people using 820uf@2.5v polymers caps, replacing, sometimes, 6.3v and maybe 16v wet-litics.

Today, I really tried to use a multimeter to measure the voltages, but I think, probably, ythere is some general rule for this.

Probably, I'll start with a TUV4x (See attachment).

Yellow - 1500uF/6.3v 14
Red - 1000uF/6.3v 11
Blue - 470uF/6.3v 2
Pink - 100uF/16v 2
Green - 10uf/25v 4

Exploring one local shop, I'm thinking about using Fujitsu 470uf@6.3v for replacing Red and Blue ones.

For yellows, I think there is not good options in the shop, cause all 820uf available are 2.5v.

For pink and green, I'm think about Fujitsu 100uf@16v.

Note that this map maybe wrong, I did it with a internet picture, cause my TUV4x is stored in a hard place.

Thank you!

Hello.

2.5V caps are only for VRM low, where the CPU voltage never exeeds that. That won't work for the memory VRM (2.6V for DDR, 3.3V for SDR), so be aware of that. In that area, you would need a minimum of 6.3V (6.3V because that's the standard produced in the factory for 5V - or less in our case. The exception are polymer or polymer hybrid caps which also come in 4V).

No, don't use Fujitsu caps... The last time Fujitsu made caps was 15 years ago, and they sold that to Nichicon I believe... And their caps from that area don't have a good endurance when it comes to shelf-life.

For a TUV4X, you do not require ultra-low ESR capacitors on the VRM. Heck, I did a KT7A (v1.1) this week and I'm running a Barton 2800 at 2Ghz+ (I pin-modded the socket on the PCB side - 5 or so wires for this to work properly - MEMTEST stable) and I did not use ultra-low ESR. Yes, later K7 boards (nForce 2 boards, for example) used them, but I think they're only really necessary for P4 Northwood and up. So you don't need polymers either.

If you list the dimensions of the caps, I might be able to hook you up with a good source. Where are you located?

mockingbird wrote on 2021-11-04, 18:12:

Hello. […]
Show full quote

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 17:14:

Hi!! […]
Show full quote

Hi!!

Almost 2 years ago, I understood, but now, as I'm starting to buy the caps, I have a doubt about the voltage, not about capacitance or ESR....

In this entire topic, I think we didn't talk about voltages.

Generally speaking, what's the voltages for the polymers?

Is there some general rule?

I'm asking cause, searching around, I saw people using 820uf@2.5v polymers caps, replacing, sometimes, 6.3v and maybe 16v wet-litics.

Today, I really tried to use a multimeter to measure the voltages, but I think, probably, ythere is some general rule for this.

Probably, I'll start with a TUV4x (See attachment).

Yellow - 1500uF/6.3v 14
Red - 1000uF/6.3v 11
Blue - 470uF/6.3v 2
Pink - 100uF/16v 2
Green - 10uf/25v 4

Exploring one local shop, I'm thinking about using Fujitsu 470uf@6.3v for replacing Red and Blue ones.

For yellows, I think there is not good options in the shop, cause all 820uf available are 2.5v.

For pink and green, I'm think about Fujitsu 100uf@16v.

Note that this map maybe wrong, I did it with a internet picture, cause my TUV4x is stored in a hard place.

Thank you!

Hello.

2.5V caps are only for VRM low, where the CPU voltage never exeeds that. That won't work for the memory VRM (2.6V for DDR, 3.3V for SDR), so be aware of that. In that area, you would need a minimum of 6.3V (6.3V because that's the standard produced in the factory for 5V - or less in our case. The exception are polymer or polymer hybrid caps which also come in 4V).

No, don't use Fujitsu caps... The last time Fujitsu made caps was 15 years ago, and they sold that to Nichicon I believe... And their caps from that area don't have a good endurance when it comes to shelf-life.

For a TUV4X, you do not require ultra-low ESR capacitors on the VRM. Heck, I did a KT7A (v1.1) this week and I'm running a Barton 2800 at 2Ghz+ (I pin-modded the socket on the PCB side - 5 or so wires for this to work properly - MEMTEST stable) and I did not use ultra-low ESR. Yes, later K7 boards (nForce 2 boards, for example) used them, but I think they're only really necessary for P4 Northwood and up. So you don't need polymers either.

If you list the dimensions of the caps, I might be able to hook you up with a good source. Where are you located?

Hello, mockingbird!

Thank you for helping.

Ok, I'll look for other brands, instead of Fujitsu.

I'll try to do a full polymer recap, cause I think it's a cool idea.

I have 4 TUV4X here, so I can try.

First, with a TUV4X, and then, with a Gigabyte GA-7vT600.

THe third one, probably, I'll be a P4 motherboard, with 12v CPU connector.

You are right, when you talk about the caps in the CPU VRM area. Now that you said, I noticed that these caps, probably, work with about the same voltage of the processor, which is less then 2.5v.

In this case, probably, we can use 2.5v caps. Now I understand.

Please, I would like to ask one more thing.

Using a multimeter, I found caps using 12v, 2.5v, 5v and etc.

It's a GA-8IPE100 Pro, that I dessolded some bulged caps tomorrow.

Do I need to install CPU and RAM to measure the voltages of the caps?

I just turned on the motherboard and noted the voltages, but I found very low values in the VRM area, something about 0.03v.

I'm located in Brazil, and it's not possible to buy caps in Mouser, cause the shipping fee it's to expensive.

Fortunately, I found Chemi-com and Sanyo, in a specific place, but all the 820uf available are 2.5v, so I'll have to buy the 3300uf replacements in another shop.

Thank you, mate!

Found some good info:

http://www.capacitorlab.com/index.htm
http://www.capacitorlab.com/basic/index.htm

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 18:42:

<snip>
I'll try to do a full polymer recap, cause I think it's a cool idea.

I'm not generally a fan of polymer modding where it's not absolutely necessary. Sure, you can get polymer capacitors for very little nowaday, but they are only 2000 hour parts... Whereas, they now have electrolytics that are 5000-10,000 hour rated. Long-life polymers OTOH are very, very expensive. Also, not all polymers are created equal. If you buy polymer caps from China or some other dubious source, open the capacitor up and check the quality of the polymer material. If it's white, dry, and flaky, then the cap is garbage. The polymer material should look shiny and black, and the concentric circle defining the roll should look tight and methodical.

Please, I would like to ask one more thing. […]
Show full quote

Please, I would like to ask one more thing.

Using a multimeter, I found caps using 12v, 2.5v, 5v and etc.

It's a GA-8IPE100 Pro, that I dessolded some bulged caps tomorrow.

Do I need to install CPU and RAM to measure the voltages of the caps?

I just turned on the motherboard and noted the voltages, but I found very low values in the VRM area, something about 0.03v.

I don't know, that's a good question. It sounds like it. If you're afraid you'll short something, solder a wire from the positive test point so that you can measure it at a safe distance.

I'm located in Brazil, and it's not possible to buy caps in Mouser, cause the shipping fee it's to expensive.

Fortunately, I found Chemi-com and Sanyo, in a specific place, but all the 820uf available are 2.5v, so I'll have to buy the 3300uf replacements in another shop.

Don't buy Chemi-Con and Sanyo from your local shop! They are either going to be general purpose capacitors which are not suitable for this application, or counterfeit. Sanyo hasn't made capacitors in years, they sold their capacitor business to Suncon (I do not recommend Suncon WG or WX series). Also, don't buy caps from eBay.

Send me a PM with specific details on the caps, I can hook you up with good prices and reasonable shipping.

One last thing, the TUV4X motherboard - which capacitors do you have installed in the VRM high and low there? It looks like Nichicon HD series -- is that right? If it's Nichicon HD series, then leave it alone.

mockingbird wrote on 2021-11-04, 19:50:

I'm not generally a fan of polymer modding where it's not absolutely necessary. Sure, you can get polymer capacitors for very l […]
Show full quote

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 18:42:

<snip>
I'll try to do a full polymer recap, cause I think it's a cool idea.

I'm not generally a fan of polymer modding where it's not absolutely necessary. Sure, you can get polymer capacitors for very little nowaday, but they are only 2000 hour parts... Whereas, they now have electrolytics that are 5000-10,000 hour rated. Long-life polymers OTOH are very, very expensive. Also, not all polymers are created equal. If you buy polymer caps from China or some other dubious source, open the capacitor up and check the quality of the polymer material. If it's white, dry, and flaky, then the cap is garbage. The polymer material should look shiny and black, and the concentric circle defining the roll should look tight and methodical.

Please, I would like to ask one more thing. […]
Show full quote

Please, I would like to ask one more thing.

Using a multimeter, I found caps using 12v, 2.5v, 5v and etc.

It's a GA-8IPE100 Pro, that I dessolded some bulged caps tomorrow.

Do I need to install CPU and RAM to measure the voltages of the caps?

I just turned on the motherboard and noted the voltages, but I found very low values in the VRM area, something about 0.03v.

I don't know, that's a good question. It sounds like it. If you're afraid you'll short something, solder a wire from the positive test point so that you can measure it at a safe distance.

I'm located in Brazil, and it's not possible to buy caps in Mouser, cause the shipping fee it's to expensive.

Fortunately, I found Chemi-com and Sanyo, in a specific place, but all the 820uf available are 2.5v, so I'll have to buy the 3300uf replacements in another shop.

Don't buy Chemi-Con and Sanyo from your local shop! They are either going to be general purpose capacitors which are not suitable for this application, or counterfeit. Sanyo hasn't made capacitors in years, they sold their capacitor business to Suncon (I do not recommend Suncon WG or WX series). Also, don't buy caps from eBay.

Send me a PM with specific details on the caps, I can hook you up with good prices and reasonable shipping.

One last thing, the TUV4X motherboard - which capacitors do you have installed in the VRM high and low there? It looks like Nichicon HD series -- is that right? If it's Nichicon HD series, then leave it alone.

I'm learning so much today, with you, and searching around the web!!

Well, I understood what you sad about full polymer recap.

I have a collection with around 60 working motherboards, and I'm afraid of losing the oldest ones, due to caps failure.

That's why I'm thinking about trying to do only one or two full polymer recaps, for testing and learning about.

Looking at my x3 TUV4X motherboards (not 4), I'm considering leave it alone at this moment, case the caps looks really reliable.

In the VRM area, yes, it's Nichicon, but I can't remember if it's HD series. I think it is.

There are rubycon caps too, around the motherboard.

Funny that I found, in the PCI area, some OST caps, which looks the same values of the rubycon one. I'm talking about 1000uf@6.3v.

Looks like there are two brands with the same values. 😀

Again, I understood what you said, but I think about trying only one recap with some Gigabyte motherboard, cause I'm seeing bloated caps in 3 or 4 motherboards.

I have 2 brand new GA-7N400, and about 6 bloated Sanyo 1000uf@6.3v, the green ones. Is it a bad series cap?

For me, if 6 are bloated, the other ones of the same spec will probably fail, sooner or later.

I already mapped the caps of this motherboard, but my first choice to recap is the GA-7VT600.

I'll map the caps and then, with your help, I'll try to find some good caps.

If you're saying the Sanyo and Chemi-con, from my local store, aren't a good choice, I'll avoid it!

You're, probably wright. 😀

Oh, I have a question:

If I buy a cap from China or another source, can I consider it's reasonable good, if the measured capacitance and ESR of the caps are ok?

I'll buy an ESR meter....

Thank you for helping me!

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 21:38:

Oh, I have a question: […]
Show full quote

Oh, I have a question:

If I buy a cap from China or another source, can I consider it's reasonable good, if the measured capacitance and ESR of the caps are ok?

I'll buy an ESR meter....

Thank you for helping me!

Glad to help sir 😀

I can also help you 'unload' several of your 60 motherboards if you're interested 🤣.

Regarding what to and what not to re-cap... Just to give you some perspective, this week I did a re-cap of an Abit KT7A. Here are the caps for the KT7A:

4 - 10V 2200uF Jackcon LEK 10x26mm (VRM High)
9 - 6.3V 2200uF Teapo SC 10x20mm (VRM Low and other caps throughout the board)
4 - 6.3V 1500uF Jackcon LEK 10x15mm (Memory VRM low?)
4 - 16v 1000uF Jackcon LHK 10x15mm (Memory VRM high)
3 - 6.3V 1500uF Jackcon LEK 8x16mm (misc)
6 -10V 1000uF Teapo SC 8x15mm (misc)
4 - 16v 100uF Jackcon ? 6x9mm

So the story with this motherboard is that I found it several kilometers away in the trash ten years ago or so. It sat all that time and I decided I wanted it in lieu of a Tualatin build which I was having issues with.

But to the point: During the re-cap, all the caps tested fine except for the 4 Jackcon LHK (one of which was visibly bloated). So the owner threw this away because he was having issues, but in fact, only the general purpose class LHK capacitors were the issue. Now I'm certain that in continuous use, the rest of the caps would not have lasted all that long either, but they did endure well past their rated shelf life (or in other words, they still seem good after sitting 'on-the-shelf' so-to-speak, and yes, there is a rating for that in capacitor datasheets).

So this particular board didn't need any special attention, so you should treat your board on a case-by-case basis. I do have some boards with OST caps which are bulging from both the top and bottom, and perhaps I should deal with those.

mockingbird wrote on 2021-11-05, 01:53:

Glad to help sir :-) […]
Show full quote

gabimor wrote on 2021-11-04, 21:38:

Oh, I have a question: […]
Show full quote

Oh, I have a question:

If I buy a cap from China or another source, can I consider it's reasonable good, if the measured capacitance and ESR of the caps are ok?

I'll buy an ESR meter....

Thank you for helping me!

Glad to help sir 😀

I can also help you 'unload' several of your 60 motherboards if you're interested 🤣.

Regarding what to and what not to re-cap... Just to give you some perspective, this week I did a re-cap of an Abit KT7A. Here are the caps for the KT7A:

4 - 10V 2200uF Jackcon LEK 10x26mm (VRM High)
9 - 6.3V 2200uF Teapo SC 10x20mm (VRM Low and other caps throughout the board)
4 - 6.3V 1500uF Jackcon LEK 10x15mm (Memory VRM low?)
4 - 16v 1000uF Jackcon LHK 10x15mm (Memory VRM high)
3 - 6.3V 1500uF Jackcon LEK 8x16mm (misc)
6 -10V 1000uF Teapo SC 8x15mm (misc)
4 - 16v 100uF Jackcon ? 6x9mm

So the story with this motherboard is that I found it several kilometers away in the trash ten years ago or so. It sat all that time and I decided I wanted it in lieu of a Tualatin build which I was having issues with.

But to the point: During the re-cap, all the caps tested fine except for the 4 Jackcon LHK (one of which was visibly bloated). So the owner threw this away because he was having issues, but in fact, only the general purpose class LHK capacitors were the issue. Now I'm certain that in continuous use, the rest of the caps would not have lasted all that long either, but they did endure well past their rated shelf life (or in other words, they still seem good after sitting 'on-the-shelf' so-to-speak, and yes, there is a rating for that in capacitor datasheets).

So this particular board didn't need any special attention, so you should treat your board on a case-by-case basis. I do have some boards with OST caps which are bulging from both the top and bottom, and perhaps I should deal with those.

Thank you for all the info, mockinbird!

Have a good weekend!