I am desoldering some components to clean corrosion and this ceramic part broke in half. Im it looks like a resistor it says 522 104 on it. Looks like a fat wire inside, could I solder it back? But that would change the resistance of I add more mass to it?
It's a 100 nF capacitor, and no, you can't solder it back
ShovelKnight wrote on 2020-04-05, 11:28:It's a 100 nF capacitor, and no, you can't solder it back
thanx for the quick reply, time to look for a replacement then
could I get away with replacing it with a SMD 100nF capacitor?
If you can solder it to wherever this one was, then sure
ShovelKnight wrote on 2020-04-05, 11:48:If you can solder it to wherever this one was, then sure
Great, thank you!
treeman wrote on 2020-04-05, 11:47:could I get away with replacing it with a SMD 100nF capacitor?
Yes, as long as it is a Tantalum cap as well. While you can replace electrolyte caps with Tantalum caps, it's not recommended to do it the other way around.
Also pay attention to the voltage, it has to be of equal or greater voltage
all it says is 522 104, but I have another identical capacitor (they were both side by side) can I determine the voltage using a multimeter on the second capacitor I removed?
If its from a PC just make sure its higher than 12v and it will be fine.
"104" refers to the capacity of 100nF. No idea what "522" is supposed to mean. I know such odd numbers from SMD caps only. Could be 5% tolerance and 22V however, as these would fit in with common specs of such caps.
LewisRaz wrote on 2020-04-05, 13:10:If its from a PC just make sure its higher than 12v and it will be fine.
No, since you can have a voltage of up to 24V on a PC (between -12V and +12V), and this is indeed not uncommon in certain circuits. Also, the next higher voltage for a cap would be 16V and that is *not* suitable for a 12V rail. So to be on the absolute safe side, you would have to use a cap rated for 35V.
is this really a tantalum cap?
it looks to me an old-style 100nf axial/bead capacitor and most likely a filtering one that can be omitted (check if it sits between gnd and some voltage)
a whatever-style 100nf ceramic one will work fine as a replacement
Probably not a tantalum, looks like a dipped ceramic cap to me.
I think 5 is tolerance (5%) and 22 means 200V (2 x 10^2)
Looks like a Tantalum cap to me due to its form and slighly shiny orange color. I've not seen other types of caps looking like that. But we don't know where it is coming from and how old it actually is.
But it should be easy to tell, even if not from the pictures. If it is indeed a Tantalum cap, one of the pins should have a mark in some way (black line or a dot) to indicate the positive side.
This is how they look prior to removal, external battery power goes to them so im guessing 5v rating should be enough?
ps maybye thats a 5ZZ if there is such a thing?
Tantalum capacitors are usually marked in uF, and why the hell would anyone use a 0.1 uF tantalum on a PC component when a ceramic capacitor would be cheaper and just as good?
yeap , this is just a 100nf ceramic cap
People tell you you can't, but actually I broke one exactly that way, the mobo it came one didn't work well anymore, then I resoldered what was left to the mobo and the mobo worked again, so it can be done ... but they're so cheap you should replace it indeed.
Trying to identify old hardware ? Visit The retro web - Project's thread The Retro Web project - a stason.org/TH99 alternative
Yes it is a 100nF axial ceramic, probably rated at 50v like the pic below. One 486 board has a few of them as in the other pic.
Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun
I found my local shop has some monolithic capacitors in stock, I'll call them but who knows if they will be open during COVID-19 although half the shops are still open.
From my research this is supposed to be a very stable capacitor, any reason can't use this one?
100nF 50VDC Monolithic Capacitor
