Can you identify any strings on the PCB other than "no:11314v5g2" (even on the solder side)?

One of my boards has its string printed near the keyboard connector on the solder side. Yours may be different.

Olá,

I´m also trying to revive a 386 motherboard with leakaged battery damage, so I know the work you have ahead.
Unfortunately i don´t know that specific motherboard.
Have you tried the following site:
http://www.elhvb.com/webhq/
yout can check all the boards listed with 3 vlb and see if any of them is yours.

Good luck

This one https://stason.org/TULARC/pc/motherboards/U/U … 486GA-VESA.html looks quite similar, though many jumpers are placed differently. Maybe a different rev ?

This board looks like it could have up to 8 30-pin SIMM slots, making their total "height" longer than the power connector.

The one on stason.org does not have SIMM slots going below the power connector. Everything else looks very similar/identical, so I'm guessing it's the same manufacturer, but a different model.

Here is an awful drawing of what I meant to say.

witch model do you think it is ?

nuno14272 wrote on 2020-04-30, 10:21:

witch model do you think it is ?

I'm guessing that you just need to get the board working and you don't care about who made it, just the jumper settings.

I think you should read all the jumper settings you can see on the PCB and manually rewrite them in Word or Notepad. At least the critical ones should be there (voltage, cpu type, cache config).Also note the current position of the jumpers (it may help you later).

To begin with, remove all socketed components and jumpers (BIOS, KBC, cache), get some vinegar, a unused toothbrush and some cotton buds and start gently scraping in the affected areas (remember not to let vinegar sit more than 15 minutes on the board, it is acid afterall). You can find a tutorial about this cleaning method on retrospector78's Youtube channel, here.

After that, you should give it a good wash in a sink with hand soap and a soft brush. Make sure to rinse it very well afterwards, so that no soap residue stays behind. This will get rid of all the remaining dirt.

You should do all of the above to see if the board is salvageable (if there are internal traces that are corroded, it's game over, it is unfixable)

Let me know if you succeded or not.

The memory sockets look a bit odd because you can use the same PCB for 4 x 30pin + 2 x 72pin as well as 8 x 30pin

I haven't seen this anywhere. I am very curious what board this is. If you cannot salvage it due to damaged traces, at least try and read out the bios chip for an ID.

computerguy08 wrote on 2020-04-30, 11:28:

I'm guessing that you just need to get the board working and you don't care about who made it, just the jumper settings. […]
Show full quote

nuno14272 wrote on 2020-04-30, 10:21:

witch model do you think it is ?

I'm guessing that you just need to get the board working and you don't care about who made it, just the jumper settings.

I think you should read all the jumper settings you can see on the PCB and manually rewrite them in Word or Notepad. At least the critical ones should be there (voltage, cpu type, cache config).Also note the current position of the jumpers (it may help you later).

To begin with, remove all socketed components and jumpers (BIOS, KBC, cache), get some vinegar, a unused toothbrush and some cotton buds and start gently scraping in the affected areas (remember not to let vinegar sit more than 15 minutes on the board, it is acid afterall). You can find a tutorial about this cleaning method on retrospector78's Youtube channel, here.

After that, you should give it a good wash in a sink with hand soap and a soft brush. Make sure to rinse it very well afterwards, so that no soap residue stays behind. This will get rid of all the remaining dirt.

You should do all of the above to see if the board is salvageable (if there are internal traces that are corroded, it's game over, it is unfixable)

Let me know if you succeded or not.

The fotos where already after the vinager....hehehe.. every resistances in series are corroted... i'm having second guests in having the trouble of time and money in to saving this board.

nuno14272 wrote on 2020-05-01, 21:20:

The fotos where already after the vinager....hehehe.. every resistances in series are corroted... i'm having second guests in having the trouble of time and money in to saving this board.

Ok then, you should clean the remaining dirt (if you haven't already) and start to decipher the jumper settings.

Pay attention to that 2N3904 as well, it's missing 😉

Phoenix "Dragon" BIOS was used on some Epson OEM boards, that might explain the absence of any useful markings. But yes, please, if it has ANY other identification at all somewhere, post it.

No.. thats all is there to see... even in the most important jumpers , there are labels on the board, but strangily they're disfocused, so it's almost impossible to read them.. damm

I put the photo links in a spoiler, so they are easier to see.