VOGONS


First post, by stephenlamppost

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

When you hear a 'pop!' and see a spark fly from your board, does anyone have any hints for detecting what failed? In my case there's no obvious burnt-out component.

I'm aware of tantalum capacitors' tendency to fail... the ones I've seen are little blobs in yellow or red packaging. Is it obvious when they've failed? Is there anything else that might fail in a similar way, but not be obvious on inspection?

My story: I bought a CHIPS GW-286CT 286 20MHz board, seemingly in very nice clean condition. It tested fine from an initial quick power-on test to POST using borrowed parts. I also snipped off the on-board battery (which was getting a bit furry) and ordered an external one.

A while later, I'd sourced the necessary parts to build a working machine. I did a quick boot to BIOS with just board + battery + memory + VGA + keyboard, all good again.

Then I added the I/O card (one that had lain in a drawer unused for 5--10 years). The machine would not power on.

I tried again 2--3 times, flipping the switch on/off each time. (This is with an ATX PSU + adapter, so I was flipping the hard switch on the rear... the remote switch for soft-on is kept on.)

The PSU was completely silent, suspiciously like when it detects a short.

Unsure what to do, but thinking it might be a low-power-draw issue, I decided to go ahead and connect power to the the HDD. I flipped the switch again...

Pop! A yellow spark flew up from the area around the middle of the main board, what looked like roughly in between the two cards (I/O and VGA), although I didn't see exactly where -- I couldn't tell whether it came from the main board or a card.

Despite the pop, the machine had booted -- I heard the BIOS beeps at nearly the same time as the pop. I turned the power off quickly. There was a light smell of burnt electronics.

First thought: blown capacitor. Only three boards were connected: the main board, the VGA card and the I/O card, The I/O card seemed to smell much more of burnt than anything else did, and seemed to be what had prompted the problem. Still, I examined it but could not see any exploded cap. It has several tantalums but they all look very much intact.

io-card.jpg

Experimenting some more, I put the I/O card back in and tried it. The floppy controller worked, but not the HDD: the BIOS claimed "Fixed disk controller is not responding". I successfully booted from a floppy and enjoyed the Secret of Monkey Island demo version...

... sort of. I noticed that during the MI demo, from some point it was ignoring my keystrokes -- I had to reboot. More generally, the keyboard behaviour seems erratic: sometimes the BIOS complains about the keyboard test failing, and sometimes I get random keystrokes and random PC-speaker blips (tiny short blips that I associate from BIOS, e..g. when you hold down a key).

On a whim, I tried the known-good I/O card from my 386. This worked (I booted the machine from the hard disk for the first time), albeit still with the instability issues. I also used the suspect I/O card in my 386, and that worked fine too!

This put my suspicions back on the motherboard. But again, I can't see any blown capacitors.

board-01.jpg

Any suggestions about what might be wrong, or where to look?

Thanks very much if so!

Full set of photos (sorry the lighting is not great... I can try again on request): here.

Reply 1 of 8, by Doornkaat

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t

Observations:
The pictures are a bit out of focus in that area but it appears there's still some corrosion around the keyboard connector and on the battery. I would recommend to rework the whole area and test the components.
There is still green copper corrosion on the battery solder connector. It keeps slowly reacting with copper under air humidity so I would recommend removing all the green corrosion (scraping it off and using flux) and sealing the spots with solder.
C19, C25 and C28 on the VGA card seem to have some dark spots though that might be from the lighting.

Reply 2 of 8, by stephenlamppost

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie

Thanks! Very helpful.

I had not noticed how bad that corrosion was. Will do as you suggest. (Or try to! I've not done any major rework before, though a bit of cleaning, soldering and continuity testing is within my abilities.) Perhaps that will fix the seemingly keyboard-related stability problems.

Good spot -- the VGA card's C28 does look discoloured and seems a bit suspect. It doesn't look like it's burnt out, but hard to be sure. C25 has a grey mark and C19 a strange black mark on the surface... I checked and these are surface marks rather than fissures, but not sure whether that means they are in the clear. I put a couple of new photos up (same URL).

So although overall I'm still scratching my head about what went pop, am feeling a bit more hopeful. Much obliged for the pointers!

Reply 3 of 8, by TheMobRules

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

You mentioned that before connecting the HDD the PSU wouldn't start, as if it was in protection mode due to a short. One thing you can do if you have a multimeter is to check the resistance between the power rails and ground to see if there's something wrong there. The same test can also be performed on the contacts of each ISA card that was involved in the "pop" incident.

Sometimes there are tantalums that short but without triggering the PSU protection, the ones connected to the -12V line tend to fail a lot (maybe because that line is horribly out of spec a lot of times). I agree that it is strange that there seem to be no visibly burned components, but looking for a short is your best option right now.

Obviously, if you intend to keep the board for a long time cleaning the battery corrosion ASAP is vital (the keyboard issue is likely to be caused by this if there's corrosion near the connector).

Reply 4 of 8, by Doornkaat

User metadata
Rank l33t
Rank
l33t
stephenlamppost wrote on 2020-06-03, 23:09:
Thanks! Very helpful. […]
Show full quote

Thanks! Very helpful.

I had not noticed how bad that corrosion was. Will do as you suggest. (Or try to! I've not done any major rework before, though a bit of cleaning, soldering and continuity testing is within my abilities.) Perhaps that will fix the seemingly keyboard-related stability problems.

Good spot -- the VGA card's C28 does look discoloured and seems a bit suspect. It doesn't look like it's burnt out, but hard to be sure. C25 has a grey mark and C19 a strange black mark on the surface... I checked and these are surface marks rather than fissures, but not sure whether that means they are in the clear. I put a couple of new photos up (same URL).

So although overall I'm still scratching my head about what went pop, am feeling a bit more hopeful. Much obliged for the pointers!

You're welcome. From the pictures I really can't say wether the capacitors are good or not. It's probably best to unsolder and test them.
Good luck with your rework! 😀

Reply 5 of 8, by stephenlamppost

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
TheMobRules wrote on 2020-06-04, 00:06:

You mentioned that before connecting the HDD the PSU wouldn't start, as if it was in protection mode due to a short. One thing you can do if you have a multimeter is to check the resistance between the power rails and ground to see if there's something wrong there. The same test can also be performed on the contacts of each ISA card that was involved in the "pop" incident.

Sometimes there are tantalums that short but without triggering the PSU protection, the ones connected to the -12V line tend to fail a lot (maybe because that line is horribly out of spec a lot of times). I agree that it is strange that there seem to be no visibly burned components, but looking for a short is your best option right now.

Thanks! Just now I tested the main board and the two ISA cards... sadly didn't find any shorts, but glad I did it anyway. For clarity (in case I could have done more/different): I read the resistance between each ISA power pin (B3, B5, B7, B9, B29) and the ground (B1, B31), and similar for the P8/P9 AT power connectors. In each case I got resistances of at least a few hundred ohms.

TheMobRules wrote on 2020-06-04, 00:06:

Obviously, if you intend to keep the board for a long time cleaning the battery corrosion ASAP is vital (the keyboard issue is likely to be caused by this if there's corrosion near the connector).

Right. I cleaned that up earlier today, and on a brief go just now, the keyboard problems seem to be gone. Fingers crossed they stay gone.

I still can't boot from floppy with this I/O card, so the finger is back pointing at that. (it starts booting but hangs a few moments after "Starting MS-DOS", not even Ctrl-Alt-Delete working.) Will try some more experiments with a known-good card... if that works well, maybe I'll have a go at re-capping the current one. Thanks again!

Reply 7 of 8, by treeman

User metadata
Rank Oldbie
Rank
Oldbie

once I had a half burned tantalum cap that looked fine form the top, but could see a small charr mark from the side. Inspect all your tantalums from all angles, you never know

Reply 8 of 8, by stephenlamppost

User metadata
Rank Newbie
Rank
Newbie
quicknick wrote on 2020-06-07, 20:49:

Make sure your DOS version isn't one that came with Windows 9x. Those require at least a 386 and hang the way you described on anything lower.

Ah, good call. This boot disk is MS-DOS 6.22... I have booted the 286 successfully with it before, while using a different I/O card (and still with some instability problems).

treeman wrote on 2020-06-08, 09:17:

once I had a half burned tantalum cap that looked fine form the top, but could see a small charr mark from the side. Inspect all your tantalums from all angles, you never know

Yes, good idea... I even read that sometimes there's no visible mark at all. Still I just did a re-check of the I/O card and they all look annoyingly super-smooth and pristine... so I really need to test them. I'll do that once I've desoldered them... once I've bought a new soldering station (don't want to my current crappy budget soldering iron, and can't get to my work workshop during lockdown).