mhh CrapXon, that unit just screams quality :p

imi wrote on 2020-06-13, 15:30:

mhh CrapXon, that unit just screams quality :p

It's a classic no brand 200W one.. one of the many similar seen in those days..😁

I was thinking that it'd have been a capacitor but I am surprised that wasn't it, that thermistor only knew why had to scare me that way (you can imagine why, you're pushing the power button and you've the psu on the table very close to you...).
It's a vey cheap PSU but most AT psu I've seen, were not that much better beside capacitors of course. Cheap, light, few components and I imagine how good the back of the pcb must be regarding soldering quality..
What would you do? Change capacitors and thermistor and try again?

me personally, I wouldn't use that one x3, maybe the case for a PSU mod

but if anything yes, replace all the low quality components in there.

386SX wrote on 2020-06-13, 11:30:

brostenen wrote on 2020-06-12, 12:25:

I say, if you can get an ATX supply, that works in combination with an adaptor. Then that is the best way to go. 386's do not swallow that much juice anyway. Just be aware, that some ATX PSU's will give some issues. I have used a couple that eighter made the AT machine unstable or did not want to power on. For some odd reason that I did not care to investigate.

I've found today the same problem using a simple ATX to AT converter without the -5v. I've seen that there're still some ATX psu around (old ones) that had the -5V cheaper than a good AT one (if there're any good at all). Do you think I'd solve those problems using an ATX having itself the negative voltages?
Thanks

If the ATX PSU have minus 5 volt, and the output is clean, then it will work. That is my main setup for AT boards and AT cases. All my ATX PSU's have minus 5 volt.

cyclone3d wrote on 2020-06-13, 13:34:

Exactly what atx psu were you using in the first place (brand / model).

If the problem is with it not having -5v, then one with -5v would probably solve the problem.

I suspect it has more to do with the ATX power supply you were trying being faulty though.

I always find A-Open 300 watt with minus 5 volt to work stable and good enough. Out of 5, I have only seen one that did not work on AT systems.