VOGONS


Reply 23 of 27, by Meoseko

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Doornkaat wrote on 2020-08-12, 11:43:

Did you try reflashing the BIOS EEPROM of the new board?

Yes, I did do that at some point before getting it to run for the first time.

Doornkaat wrote on 2020-08-12, 11:49:

BTW have you tried putting a new CR2032 in that socket?
Maybe the battery the seller included wasn't new but NOS and has run out of juice by now. Some boards need at least some battery.

I bought the older of the two boards with an empty RTC. You can see how it would still POST even if that would be the case in the original auction for this PC here. The date and time that I set when first getting the newer board to run did persist from day 1 to day 2 as well.

Reply 25 of 27, by ODwilly

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That old PSU looks particularly crappy. Either an ATX to AT switch (you can buy em or make one for cheap) or a new AT psu would me my suggestion.

Main pc: AsRock x370 Killer SLI a/c, Ryzen 5 2600, 1tb WD black nvme ssd, 24g ddr4 2400 @2933mhz, rx 480 8gb reference card, 2tb Hitachi Deskstar.
Retro PC: Soyo P4S Dragon, 3gb ddr 266, 120gb Maxtor, Geforce Fx 5950 Ultra, SB Live! 5.1

Reply 26 of 27, by Meoseko

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ODwilly wrote on 2020-08-13, 07:44:

That old PSU looks particularly crappy. Either an ATX to AT switch (you can buy em or make one for cheap) or a new AT psu would me my suggestion.

Both PSUs never had a problem running the old board that has since been reinstated. I bought either as replacement for the PSU that came with the PC originally, which had leaked capacitors and died in a matter of hours of using it. One of the two PSUs I used for testing throughout has also been listed as refurbished by the seller. That's the one built into the PC now. I admit the other one didn't look to fresh and had an unopened seal that said '97 on it, but I did look inside it to verify that no capacitors had leaked before ever using and outside of testing this one board it has been working fine so far.

Reply 27 of 27, by Meoseko

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Doornkaat wrote on 2020-08-13, 07:36:

I agree, this sounds like the board is bad.🙁

Yeah, the fact that with the exact same setup, one board runs and one doesn't kind of proves that pretty convincingly in my opinion. What's funny is that the old board now runs with the exact jumper setup you posted except for JP 11 1-4. These should be open along with JP 6 2-3 being closed to select dual voltage, but the PC will not POST with that being the case. However, when closing JP11 1-4, the PC POSTs fine, albeit that not even being a valid configuration with JP6 2-3 being closed. Nothing I necesarrily need solved, just thought it might be of interest to you.