Here you can look up some hardcore methods for case restoration: https://retrohax.net/commodore-sx-64-keyboard-restoration/

do you have a photo?

Show us pictures. There is also a method of repairing ABS plastic that I came up, you may give a try if it its applicable to your situation. Its called ABS slurry repair.

Scroll all the way down for pics, and instructions kinda The video in the Original post is where I got my ideas.

ABS plastic repair

Also I might know where I can get parts for that, but I dont reveal my sources for parts and items on this forum, reasons.

Hi Adalbert and warlord,

Thanks for looking at my dilemma 😀

i do. I took a few photos now of the cracked area(s) where the left-hand side seems to be the worst side (right is cracked as well, but not as protruding as the left side).

While i did manage to slide the left hinge back in again, there seems to be a "roller-bearing" of sorts (in lack of better term to describe it) in between the screen facia and the lcd itself that (imho) have misaligned itself. Maybe i could try to undo the facia, carefully lifting it off and see if i can put that "thing" back in place again?

Regarding the hinge (the part that sits towards the back-side/against the lid itself) i was thinking if it would be possible to superglue it back in place, thinking it should stay firm, flush against the lid-part (and not move freely in there) but i'm not 100% sure about that and would really need some advice.

Which leaves the plastic cracks themselves... i looked at that restoration job on the SX-64 and.... wow... that is true craftmanship and dedication. Truly amazing job. For for personally, it does not have to be 100% perfect, but it would of course not hurt either to have those cracks as invisible as possible. With that in mind, would it be possible to glue them (maybe not super-glue if thats too strong)?

I've had good luck with superglue only when glued parts didn't receive any mechanical stress (like glueing a decorative panel to a case). When there was any kind of flexing involved, parts would separate very quickly and it would be hard to clean off the remaining glue before trying something better (it leaves a white residue). And the screen probably is flexing near that hinge. Two part epoxy worked better for me in such cases, but it isn't a perfect solution because such glue leaves a thicker gap, and also requires some surface area to have proper strength. I sometimes cut a piece of fine fiberglass mesh (from anti-insect window screen), cover the surface of both parts with additional epoxy and glue them together with that mesh acting as a patch (there is also glue between that parts). Excessive glue can be wiped with wet q-tip in first few minutes of curing. But maybe it would be good to try that acetone welding method Warlord suggested, although you should be careful not to damage other parts with acetone drops.

adalbert, i think that the enforcement method (fibre-glass) sounds like a solid plan imho. I will definately go down that route in the end. But first i think i need to get the bezel off the unit in order to see what that metal thing is that seems to be shifted 95 degrees (imho making the back-cover crack due to resistance). Afaik, the bezel is fastened together using 2.5 inch torx. But is it enough just to release those 4 screws to lift it i wonder?

No. Don't do what others suggests. The actual mounts are in the lid top itself, excessive load stress by poor design. The plastic is fibre-reinforced (mine broke away with loud crack) when I had to cut away extra posts in the new lid, and the plastic posts were molded around 4 brass anchors that 4 screws are threaded through, 2 screws per hinge.

Mine broke same way after a drop by previous owner, and had to source a new top lid back in the day after I purchased 701C used around 1997.

Best way is drill through the lid's exterior where 4 screws are and make a strengthening plate (external on top of lid) for the screws and nut, and cut away the old posts, and make 2 blocks and 2 holes each, of same height as old posts were and the hinge bracket holding all together via screws and glue. Screws and nuts and epoxy is way stronger using this method. I had to do same repair to LTE 386s/20 when I owned it, again same flawed design, except mine was not dropped, just cracked away with use.

Cheers,