VOGONS


First post, by dondiego

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It's a K6-2 board. Usually they come out easily pushing down a little with tweezers but this one does not move, the metal part with the clips is completely horizontal. I only manage to bend the board, i can rise the heatsink a little but the clips don't move at all. I don't know how i could rescue the board, i only can think of cutting the metal and i don't know how.
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Reply 2 of 13, by Tetrium

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hyoenmadan wrote on 2021-10-10, 12:08:

These were designed to be pushed with flat screwdriver tips. Just be careful to choose the correct size and pressure, as board hit accidents with these are common.

This.

Then push it down, move it sideways and it should be out of the socket tab.
Perhaps there's a guide on youtube or something showing how it works, it's real easy (in theory) once you figured it out 😜

With some of the older Socket 7 ones you might even be able to push it down on one side using your fingers.

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Reply 3 of 13, by weedeewee

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unscrew the fan from the heatsink to get a little bit more space for leverage, and use a flat head screw driver.

Be careful not to slip !!! or push down too hard and scrape the board.

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Reply 4 of 13, by The Serpent Rider

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I just place some thick paper underneath, in case of screwdriver slipping.

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Reply 5 of 13, by Robin4

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If its to hard the remove the cooler. I would recommend to use a little grinding / cutting tool like a dremel and would cut the metal band on the edge of the motherboard where is the most space to do so.

The mounting clip from the cpu socket could easilly brake of, when you trying to apply to much force on it.. Its better to cut the metal band an look for a better cooler solution.

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Reply 6 of 13, by Joseph_Joestar

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The Serpent Rider wrote on 2021-10-10, 12:47:

I just place some thick paper underneath, in case of screwdriver slipping.

This is such a simple yet extremely effective solution. It can make a huge difference as it's very easy to accidentally scratch the board and/or ruin some traces in case the screwdriver slips without any protection.

As for the procedure itself, remember that you only need to move the clip a few millimeters down and then gently pull it away from the CPU socket until the hook releases fully. Like others have said, try finding a video which shows this. It's much easier to do after you've seen it once.

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Reply 7 of 13, by dondiego

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Thanks, it's gone. Seems this one was meant for one time use and then trash everything away. I removed the fan and pushed the metal inside the heatsink relatively close to the border with the cross screwdriver in one hand and at the same time i pulled with the tweezers in the other hand. Normally they come out easily with the tweezers or a flat screwdriver but not this one.

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Reply 8 of 13, by retardware

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I actually used two screwdrivers.
One I put between the screwdriver which had to pry out the "hook" from the plastic "nose", as sort of "lever", so the other screwdriver could work like a "crowbar".

I was always afraid of breaking off the "nose", but luckily never managed to do so, no matter how brutally and forcefully I pried open that annoying construction.
I slipped several times, and I guess it was pure luck I did not destroy anything... the idea of using thick paper as protection is really good.

If you just want to salvage the CPU, then the easiest way is to smash away the cooler using a hammer (not too light, ideal size 3-5kg).

Reply 9 of 13, by pentiumspeed

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I use flat thick blade with fat shaft screwdriver that it fits the hook (last photo) snugly and carefully push down and lever the clip outwards to get unhooked.

Back in the day when one shop I worked part time was selling lots of Athlon socket 462 stuff, we had a exchangeable thick shaft screwdriver with perfect blade for this.
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Reply 10 of 13, by BitWrangler

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I have three tools I use depending on the clip. When it's a loop like that I have a quality flat blade that fits them snuggly. When they are a hook that a flat blade easily skips out of, I use a hex drive socket, but you'll need to find one that isn't too fat between interior and exterior. A piece of metal pipe 1/4 to 1/2" inch also works. Then those that all they seem to have is a hole, either the upward hook or loop isn't well formed, I stick one jaw of needlenose pliers in there, and push downward and outward...

... there's this one REALLY convenient 4 in 1 driver I've got that has double ended 8mm drive bits, small and large flat and crosspoint, and a double ended socket/sleeve that comes out of the handle, so you can quick flip between two bits inserted either way round. Anyway, this thing has the large bit suitable for the loop, the socket/sleeve works on the hook, and "most" of the just a hole type I can manage with the small flat which wedges in.... unfortunately it's a tool that seems extremely convenient for everything, and technically not actually mine (Subsumed into household tools from predecessor households as it were) so I have to hunt it down all the time if I want to use it.

edit: Oh they're still a thing, think you can get them from Ace Hardware in US... I should order half a dozen... https://www.millerindustrial.com/ace-phillips … rewdriver-8-in/

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Reply 11 of 13, by dondiego

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Usually it's not a problem but that one was stuck, may be even forced. I had to push the metal bar within the heatsink too.

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Reply 12 of 13, by Ydee

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Some of the boards had protective foil taped under the clasp handle, precisely because of the numerous damage caused by the screwdriver slipping.

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Reply 13 of 13, by dondiego

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Yeah a few but i was not working directly above the board . BTW it works, it's a GA-5AX. The cpu is a 500 MHZ K6-2 but i've configured it @300 (66 FSB) and 1.8V to experience the shitty K6 level performance (i don't own one). I've installed a savage 3d.

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