VOGONS


First post, by Victorkorp99

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Good morning / afternoon / evening, a few months ago I was selecting the parts that I liked the most to build a windows 98se build around the slot 1 platform. One of the objectives was to make a reliable, durable machine that was quite compatible for 1997 games, ms-dos games to run in a window under Win9x and until the year 2000 and some 2001 titles and I chose slot 1 because I love it and it was what my first pc used (A totally different pc, it was with a baby AT + pcchips with 333 and 128mb ram, think of the cheapest PCs circa 1999-2001).

The problem that brings me to this post is that the motherboard came with cheap Tayeh brand capacitors that still served well in their time but now more than 20 years later, it is already good to change them so as not to compromise the integrity of the motherboard, again , the idea is that the build is reliable and lasts for me: D

Where I live it is really difficult to import good quality electrolytic capacitors, either often the distributors do not ship to Argentina, or the import costs (costs and / or taxes) are killer or they are simply lost / held in customs, so one is left only with what one can get from electronics stores, in my city there are quite a few and I have no problem locating the parts I need, what happens is that the best I can get are mixed capacitors from Chinese or Taiwanese brands ( jackon, sancon, yaego, teapo, trec, jb, fake nichicon, etc), I can also scavenge good electrolytics from old boards but it seems like it's frowned upon to do that

That's where I was when I saw in a video from Philscomputerlab all that polymod is to recap with low ESR solid state capacitors, I didn't think much about it and I went to one of my trusted electronics stores and bought 15 capacitors of 560uf 6.3v solid state to change 15 1000uf 6.3v electrolytics from the vrm area and other areas where the manufacturer employed the same value (Considering the controversial rule of "up to half capacitance at equal voltage").

It cost me 79 Argentine pesos per unit (more or less $0.79 usd or $11.85 according to the google unit converter).

I was quite satisfied after changing them but then I started to read a bit about what I had just done (yes, I am a genius, I know), I investigated with the little knowledge I have and it turns out that the recap I did with generic capacitors, apparently They are manufactured by a Chinese company named YTF

In the first place, can someone with the knowledge in the matter tell me if I really screwed up? Should I change the polys and leave it as it is?
What I bought is supposed to last quite a bit, even being a Chinese product, it should even last longer than the Chinese / Taiwanese electrolytics I can get

Another question that comes to mind is: Was it a good idea to polymod a motherboard as old as this one?

At the moment I have been using it for a few days and until now I had no problem, I was using it with a pentium 3 550mhz (Katmai) and a geforce4 mx440, the machine passed benchmarks in 3D Mark 99 Max and 3D Mark 2000 without any problem.

I really appreciate your comments, I usually do a lot of research before doing things but given the situation this was like a "no brainer", in the worst case I can reverse everything or use my SE440BX-2 with full tantalum capacitors and original nichicons . I hope that both myself and others interested in the experience learn more about this practice.

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Argentina, Córdoba

System: - Pentium III-S 1.4 (Tualatin) + 512mb RAM PC133 + Lite-On TR100 (i815ep) + Ati Radeon 9550 256mb + SB Live! + Generic Usb 2.0 Card + 3Com Etherlink III+ 64gb SD Card (IDE to SD adapter)

Reply 1 of 8, by BitWrangler

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Set a calendar reminder to change them out again in 5 years.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 2 of 8, by Victorkorp99

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BitWrangler wrote on 2021-11-23, 23:15:

Set a calendar reminder to change them out again in 5 years.

It's just what I was thinking of doing, just like I do with electrolytics ... Luckily it seems that in the end it was not so bad

Argentina, Córdoba

System: - Pentium III-S 1.4 (Tualatin) + 512mb RAM PC133 + Lite-On TR100 (i815ep) + Ati Radeon 9550 256mb + SB Live! + Generic Usb 2.0 Card + 3Com Etherlink III+ 64gb SD Card (IDE to SD adapter)

Reply 3 of 8, by mockingbird

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This was an ok idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired.

Those Chinese "polymer" capacitors are not suitable for _any_ application.

Cut one open, you'll see. The polymer material will be dry, flakey, and have a white residue on it.

Good polymer capacitors have a moist polymer layer with a well-defined concentric pattern at the top and bottom of the electric/dielectric polymer roll.

mslrlv.png
(Decommissioned:)
7ivtic.png

Reply 4 of 8, by Victorkorp99

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mockingbird wrote on 2021-11-24, 04:29:
This was an ok idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired. […]
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This was an ok idea, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired.

Those Chinese "polymer" capacitors are not suitable for _any_ application.

Cut one open, you'll see. The polymer material will be dry, flakey, and have a white residue on it.

Good polymer capacitors have a moist polymer layer with a well-defined concentric pattern at the top and bottom of the electric/dielectric polymer roll.

Sure, I'll try when the ones on the board are replaced with the right ones, that's going to be a matter of some time until I can locate the replacements...

Argentina, Córdoba

System: - Pentium III-S 1.4 (Tualatin) + 512mb RAM PC133 + Lite-On TR100 (i815ep) + Ati Radeon 9550 256mb + SB Live! + Generic Usb 2.0 Card + 3Com Etherlink III+ 64gb SD Card (IDE to SD adapter)

Reply 5 of 8, by retardware

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Maybe check out the PSU for its ripple... the worst stress these mobo caps have to endure is when they are constantly under high currents from charging/discharging due to a high-ripple PSU. This can kill even top-brand caps quite quickly.

On the other hand, if the PSU has (almost) no ripple and cooling is good, even "bad" cap brands can live very long.

Reply 6 of 8, by wiretap

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I wouldn't buy counterfeit or poor quality capacitors off Alibaba/Aliexpress.. instead purchase from Mouser or Digikey since they use trusted supply lines for real OEM parts.

My Github
Circuit Board Repair Manuals

Reply 7 of 8, by Victorkorp99

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retardware wrote on 2021-11-24, 12:18:

On the other hand, if the PSU has (almost) no ripple and cooling is good, even "bad" cap brands can live very long.

I have in my favor that the cooling is quite good, on the other hand I do not have how to measure the ripple of the voltages that the psu gives. The one I am using is one made by Delta, it is of good quality but I am going to change it for a new Corsair CX, the idea is that it will last at least 10 years and the caps of the mobo hopefully they will last me about 5 ...

Argentina, Córdoba

System: - Pentium III-S 1.4 (Tualatin) + 512mb RAM PC133 + Lite-On TR100 (i815ep) + Ati Radeon 9550 256mb + SB Live! + Generic Usb 2.0 Card + 3Com Etherlink III+ 64gb SD Card (IDE to SD adapter)

Reply 8 of 8, by mockingbird

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I want to retract my previous assertion that the polymer dielectric is "moist" in good polymer brands. I opened up both a UCC PSA series and a Nichicon FP (5K) series, and the polymer layer was in fact dry, so that's normal.

But I still stand by my assertion that if you see white deposits inside the cap, it's probably no good.

mslrlv.png
(Decommissioned:)
7ivtic.png