Carefully solder a new one in. The drain pad seems to be the most affected, but with enough solder applied to the new FET (I'd stick with another FDB6030L, or at least a CET CEB6030L if you want something else.) it should stick nicely. Optionally I'd apply UV mask over the drain tab of the MOSFET once it's soldered to prevent it from moving.

PcBytes wrote on 2022-04-20, 15:20:

Carefully solder a new one in. The drain pad seems to be the most affected, but with enough solder applied to the new FET (I'd stick with another FDB6030L, or at least a CET CEB6030L if you want something else.) it should stick nicely. Optionally I'd apply UV mask over the drain tab of the MOSFET once it's soldered to prevent it from moving.

thanks, in my area i can´t find DFB6030L .....but i can find the CET CEB6030L !!!

My idea was to cover all the damaged area with GREEN UV mask , then place one of these vertical heatsinks on top, and then solder the mosfet vertically. (of course i would need to glue the heatsink to the motherboard too. Not sure if it is possible to solder the mosfet to this kind of heatsink but worth the try.

do you think its possible? i kind of like more this because i read on the forum that this motherboard seems to have problems with that specific mosfet that gets incredibly hot and ruins other components.

Drain tab will need to be connected somehow to the top layer of copper. Maybe you could modify a TO220 case style (rather than the TO263 / D2PAK) so you can solder the middle pin to where the tab was and screw a heatsink on. Getting it mechanically supported will be important so that no more damage is done to the motherboard. Soldering to a heatsink might be tricky to get the heatsink hot enough.

snufkin wrote on 2022-04-20, 16:24:

Drain tab will need to be connected somehow to the top layer of copper. Maybe you could modify a TO220 case style (rather than the TO263 / D2PAK) so you can solder the middle pin to where the tab was and screw a heatsink on. Getting it mechanically supported will be important so that no more damage is done to the motherboard. Soldering to a heatsink might be tricky to get the heatsink hot enough.

i think thats a good idea, i would glue the heatsink with some really hard epoxy
and the middle pin just run a wire to the area that is not affected.

What you'll want to do first is check to make sure you don't have a short between 2 or more layers under where the pad is all burnt. I've seen numerous times where this happens, as it can get hot enough to melt through and fuse layers. It can be corrected though, by digging out pieces that are touching each other. I've also used a rotary tool for a repair like that, but only in IPC 7711B/7721B courses. But, at least you have plenty of pad left to work with, and it looks fixable.