Do you have a picture of the markings?
Im pretty sure Amps is not a value printed on caps.
i would guess its more like a manufacturer marking.. maybe a datecode or dimensions.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-01, 14:27:

Do you have a picture of the markings?
Im pretty sure Amps is not a value printed on caps.
i would guess its more like a manufacturer marking.. maybe a datecode or dimensions.

you have to teleport yourself 20 years ago hahaha.
I dont know about electronics but its here:

I think that is amps, if you look to the last one the letters are more spaced, so that "35A" or "46A" probably is 3.5 and 4.6, i dont know about electronics, check websites like mouser you can find a lot information about the capacitors they sell (i dont know if is a legit site or not, just an example)

Seriously you shouldt be doing this! I can already see the horrors of first time repair on 'my precious' 😀
"Choyo" is such a "reputable" brand you wont find datashets for it, but
85A usually means tolerance code + voltage code + datecode

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 16:04:

Seriously you shouldt be doing this! I can already see the horrors of first time repair on 'my precious' 😀
"Choyo" is such a "reputable" brand you wont find datashets for it, but
85A usually means tolerance code + voltage code + datecode

I was almost dead here, literally.

Okey, your info helped me a lot i just have to choose 330UF and 25V or whatever.

I found another site where they called to the section of "ma"(i think miliamperes) for capacitors "ripple current", so probably that is a different thing.

im going to find some nichicon, rubycon, panasonic or whatever japanese capacitors.

Thanks a lot.

what you need is
-105C temp
-low ESR
-same or slightly smaller size
-same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm)
-same or higher voltage
-replace all of the same type that died unless you want to do it again
-you dont need premium $x capacitors, £0.195 EPCOS or Rubycon will do fine wit >5000 hours lifetime - this is almost a year of constant work while being baked at >100C. Trust me, those capacitors are going to outlive you.

White line on the Can signifies ground. On PCB you either have white marked ground, or explicitly marked + as the opposite of ground. White line on Can goes to white on PCB.

You will not be able to desolder them with just the typical cheap 45W soldering iron. Either blast bottom of the motherboard with heatgun set to low (dont go over 100C) for a couple seconds to preheat and then try your luck with soldering iron, or get wire cutters and cut them off leaving just the legs sticking out of the motherboard. Desoldering separate legs is much easier than trying to juggle two at a time. Clearing holes will be even more fun, you can try thin stainless steel injection needle to push out the solder, some have luck with compressed air (dont forget to close remaining eye before its burned by flying molder metal), with powerful soldering iron and big flat tip you can just melt both holes and insert the cap, with proper desoldering gun you suck solder out of the holes. Do NOT try to trill the holes, there are connections between layers of PCB and drill will rip that out.

Best advice nobody follows - get a disposable motherboard and practice until you manage to desolder at least a couple without damaging everything around. Watching videos is not enough.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

what you need is -105C temp -low ESR -same or slightly smaller size -same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm […]
Show full quote

what you need is
-105C temp
-low ESR
-same or slightly smaller size
-same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm)
-same or higher voltage
-replace all of the same type that died unless you want to do it again
-you dont need premium $x capacitors, £0.195 EPCOS or Rubycon will do fine wit >5000 hours lifetime - this is almost a year of constant work while being baked at >100C. Trust me, those capacitors are going to outlive you.

White line on the Can signifies ground. On PCB you either have white marked ground, or explicitly marked + as the opposite of ground. White line on Can goes to white on PCB.

You will not be able to desolder them with just the typical cheap 45W soldering iron. Either blast bottom of the motherboard with heatgun set to low (dont go over 100C) for a couple seconds to preheat and then try your luck with soldering iron, or get wire cutters and cut them off leaving just the legs sticking out of the motherboard. Desoldering separate legs is much easier than trying to juggle two at a time. Clearing holes will be even more fun, you can try thin stainless steel injection needle to push out the solder, some have luck with compressed air (dont forget to close remaining eye before its burned by flying molder metal), with powerful soldering iron and big flat tip you can just melt both holes and insert the cap, with proper desoldering gun you suck solder out of the holes. Do NOT try to trill the holes, there are connections between layers of PCB and drill will rip that out.

Best advice nobody follows - get a disposable motherboard and practice until you manage to desolder at least a couple without damaging everything around. Watching videos is not enough.

I have to look in deep all the info you mentioned here (if i need i ask you later), some of your advices i already saw in a video but your comment is more expanded with more details, so thanks for this.
I have a welder course with electrode (i know its not the same), but im not coming here like "nothing", im very precise so i dont think i will mess everything around, i will take really care of what im doing and not push too much heat or force, so if this is not going forward ill stop and try to find the way.

About the solder, I have checked it and has only 30W, is cheap and bullshit, i saw in a video old motherboards can include lead solders and them need less heat, around 20-30 degrees less, i think this one can have those because some of the solders are partially not brilliant (this reminds me to the lead).
Another point here is the solder points are very small compared to another one i saw, maybe this makes my life more easier.

What i dont understand is, close to CPU there are 330UF 25V capacitors that are bigger than onther ones with same specification, (i know you said respect size), the only thing i can suppose is bigger=better heat dissipation.
Unfortunately in my country it seems that it is difficult to get good capacitors 😒 , the only one good i found is a panasonic polimer 5000 hours, only one size 5x9mm.
Found too nichicon VR (2000 hours or something like that) and i spent a lot of hours looking around.
I have also seen daewoo, but according to 2 comments are not very good.

Thanks again.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

what you need is -105C temp -low ESR -same or slightly smaller size -same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm […]
Show full quote

what you need is
-105C temp
-low ESR
-same or slightly smaller size
-same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm)
-same or higher voltage
-replace all of the same type that died unless you want to do it again
-you dont need premium $x capacitors, £0.195 EPCOS or Rubycon will do fine wit >5000 hours lifetime - this is almost a year of constant work while being baked at >100C. Trust me, those capacitors are going to outlive you.

White line on the Can signifies ground. On PCB you either have white marked ground, or explicitly marked + as the opposite of ground. White line on Can goes to white on PCB.

You will not be able to desolder them with just the typical cheap 45W soldering iron. Either blast bottom of the motherboard with heatgun set to low (dont go over 100C) for a couple seconds to preheat and then try your luck with soldering iron, or get wire cutters and cut them off leaving just the legs sticking out of the motherboard. Desoldering separate legs is much easier than trying to juggle two at a time. Clearing holes will be even more fun, you can try thin stainless steel injection needle to push out the solder, some have luck with compressed air (dont forget to close remaining eye before its burned by flying molder metal), with powerful soldering iron and big flat tip you can just melt both holes and insert the cap, with proper desoldering gun you suck solder out of the holes. Do NOT try to trill the holes, there are connections between layers of PCB and drill will rip that out.

Best advice nobody follows - get a disposable motherboard and practice until you manage to desolder at least a couple without damaging everything around. Watching videos is not enough.

That last line of advice is probably the most important thing. I am still very much mediocre/bad at this, but I only realized after the fact how much worse I used to be . Practicing on disposable junk is a very good suggestion. FWIW, on another personal note, I have not (yet) mastered the art of using a spring-loaded solder sucker, but I have gotten better at using copper de-soldering braid . Some day, I will probably invest in a motorized de-soldering gun, as these are apparently a dream to use .

darry wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:53:

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 17:43:

what you need is -105C temp -low ESR -same or slightly smaller size -same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm […]
Show full quote

what you need is
-105C temp
-low ESR
-same or slightly smaller size
-same or slightly higher capacity (20% tolerance is the norm)
-same or higher voltage
-replace all of the same type that died unless you want to do it again
-you dont need premium $x capacitors, £0.195 EPCOS or Rubycon will do fine wit >5000 hours lifetime - this is almost a year of constant work while being baked at >100C. Trust me, those capacitors are going to outlive you.

White line on the Can signifies ground. On PCB you either have white marked ground, or explicitly marked + as the opposite of ground. White line on Can goes to white on PCB.

You will not be able to desolder them with just the typical cheap 45W soldering iron. Either blast bottom of the motherboard with heatgun set to low (dont go over 100C) for a couple seconds to preheat and then try your luck with soldering iron, or get wire cutters and cut them off leaving just the legs sticking out of the motherboard. Desoldering separate legs is much easier than trying to juggle two at a time. Clearing holes will be even more fun, you can try thin stainless steel injection needle to push out the solder, some have luck with compressed air (dont forget to close remaining eye before its burned by flying molder metal), with powerful soldering iron and big flat tip you can just melt both holes and insert the cap, with proper desoldering gun you suck solder out of the holes. Do NOT try to trill the holes, there are connections between layers of PCB and drill will rip that out.

Best advice nobody follows - get a disposable motherboard and practice until you manage to desolder at least a couple without damaging everything around. Watching videos is not enough.

That last line of advice is probably the most important thing. I am still very much mediocre/bad at this, but I only realized after the fact how much worse I used to be . Practicing on disposable junk is a very good suggestion. FWIW, on another personal note, I have not (yet) mastered the art of using a spring-loaded solder sucker, but I have gotten better at using copper de-soldering braid . Some day, I will probably invest in a motorized de-soldering gun, as these are apparently a dream to use .

Okey, im going to find something to practice, im going to order them from internet so i have time to practice.
Im going to use the extractor, because i dont have any experience, i dont have nothing to compare hahaha.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

About the solder, I have checked it and has only 30W, is cheap and bullshit, i saw in a video old motherboards can include lead solders and them need less heat, around 20-30 degrees less, i think this one can have those because some of the solders are partially not brilliant (this reminds me to the lead).

yeah, thats not gonna work

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

Another point here is the solder points are very small compared to another one i saw, maybe this makes my life more easier.

what you see is very small, board has multiple layers, at least a couple are connected to leads inside the holes, and those are big planes, think big heat radiators

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

What i dont understand is, close to CPU there are 330UF 25V capacitors that are bigger than onther ones with same specification, (i know you said respect size), the only thing i can suppose is bigger=better heat dissipation.

yes, might be longer life variants, wouldnt make a big deal out of it, all the caps were shit in nineties compared to whats available today
btw you dont need 25V or 25V caps, 16V will be just fine. There are no >12V supplies on PC motherboards. They simply used what was available, or over specced because supplier was that bad.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

Unfortunately in my country it seems that it is difficult to get good capacitors 😒 , the only one good i found is a panasonic polimer 5000 hours, only one size 5x9mm.
Found too nichicon VR (2000 hours or something like that) and i spent a lot of hours looking around.
I have also seen daewoo, but according to 2 comments are not very good.

tme.eu mouser farnell, any capacitor with correct parameters from those places will be good, they ship all over the world minus shitholes under sanctions.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 19:12:

yeah, thats not gonna work […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

About the solder, I have checked it and has only 30W, is cheap and bullshit, i saw in a video old motherboards can include lead solders and them need less heat, around 20-30 degrees less, i think this one can have those because some of the solders are partially not brilliant (this reminds me to the lead).

yeah, thats not gonna work

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

Another point here is the solder points are very small compared to another one i saw, maybe this makes my life more easier.

what you see is very small, board has multiple layers, at least a couple are connected to leads inside the holes, and those are big planes, think big heat radiators

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

What i dont understand is, close to CPU there are 330UF 25V capacitors that are bigger than onther ones with same specification, (i know you said respect size), the only thing i can suppose is bigger=better heat dissipation.

yes, might be longer life variants, wouldnt make a big deal out of it, all the caps were shit in nineties compared to whats available today
btw you dont need 25V or 25V caps, 16V will be just fine. There are no >12V supplies on PC motherboards. They simply used what was available, or over specced because supplier was that bad.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-01, 18:30:

Unfortunately in my country it seems that it is difficult to get good capacitors 😒 , the only one good i found is a panasonic polimer 5000 hours, only one size 5x9mm.
Found too nichicon VR (2000 hours or something like that) and i spent a lot of hours looking around.
I have also seen daewoo, but according to 2 comments are not very good.

tme.eu mouser farnell, any capacitor with correct parameters from those places will be good, they ship all over the world minus shitholes under sanctions.

To be short, i get everything what you mention, im not going to trust on what i see because i dont know what is inside or how it is connected, so ill take care and thats all.
I understand what you say about Voltage and about the new manufacture is better, in other way i assume that if i buy the same today that means they will be less forced while working and maybe better life span.

Im going to check tme.eu, i saw the other ones but their warehouses are based in EEUU, i live in europe so i have to pay for taxes, this one is based in poland, so you saved my life.

Thank you, i appreciate it a lot 😀

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-01, 19:12:

Excuse me man, I don't want to bother.

You said that respect size but as well to dont break my brain too much about this, i have 2 options after looking a lot capacitors.

-Panasonic Ø8x11.5mm / 6000 hours / ESR 56mΩ
-Panasonic Ø10x12.5mm / 3000 hours / ESR 41mΩ

Mine: Ø8x14 & Ø10x15 , those are good ones but both are smalls, i though to buy the 6000 hours one because 3000 is automatically discarded, almost all the stock is out, there is no more options.
I prefer ask beforce purchase because is too much diference, if you are sure that there will be no problem I'll buy them, if you think it is too much or you have doubts I do not buy them

Thank again for your time.

wrt sizes,
larger ones that fit might work, but might interfere with other components placed on the board, like expansion cards or heatsinks
smaller ones, no problem.

and don't forget about 'lead spacing'

weedeewee wrote on 2022-08-02, 08:50:

wrt sizes, larger ones that fit might work, but might interfere with other components placed on the board, like expansion cards […]
Show full quote

wrt sizes,
larger ones that fit might work, but might interfere with other components placed on the board, like expansion cards or heatsinks
smaller ones, no problem.

and don't forget about 'lead spacing'

Are you sure smaller no problem?, i found info about this low esr capacitors and seems to have a lot of improvement compared to normal ones. Taking into account that the ones installed are from 20 years ago & crap brand, i understand that these are much better but i want to be sure 🤣.

Excuse me, what do you mean with "lead spacing"?, space between legs?.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 09:05:

Are you sure smaller no problem?, i found info about this low esr capacitors and seems to have a lot of improvement compared to normal ones. Taking into account that the ones installed are from 20 years ago & crap brand, i understand that these are much better but i want to be sure 🤣.

Excuse me, what do you mean with "lead spacing"?, space between legs?.

If the specifications, capacitance & voltage are equal or greater then the smaller size is no problem.

yes, space between legs.

weedeewee wrote on 2022-08-02, 09:08:

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-02, 09:05:

Are you sure smaller no problem?, i found info about this low esr capacitors and seems to have a lot of improvement compared to normal ones. Taking into account that the ones installed are from 20 years ago & crap brand, i understand that these are much better but i want to be sure 🤣.

Excuse me, what do you mean with "lead spacing"?, space between legs?.

If the specifications, capacitance & voltage are equal or greater then the smaller size is no problem.

yes, space between legs.

Thank for that clarification.

So, from what i see here the 8x14 has 4mm space and the 10x15 has 5mm.

in the website says: "Terminal raster 5mm" is this specification right? (I looked for it another time but I didn't find a result)

Looking more in detail that 4mm space seems to be 3.5 and the another one is definitely 5mm.

I have the chance to buy both of them

wrt lead spacing. Check what the lead spacing of the capacitors on your mainboard is.

weedeewee wrote on 2022-08-02, 09:25:

wrt lead spacing. Check what the lead spacing of the capacitors on your mainboard is.

I translated that phrase from spanish, the English version of the website calls it "Terminal pitch" and i found that indeed is the space between leads.

Thanks for that info 😀

I meant, measure the lead spacing of the capacitors on your mainboard.

enjoy !

weedeewee wrote on 2022-08-02, 09:57:

I meant, measure the lead spacing of the capacitors on your mainboard.

enjoy !

Yes i did it, I have measured the solder points behind the board to know the distance needed, is 3.5mm & 5mm, and luckily they have the 2 condenser versions.

thanks for making sure i do it right 😀 , im looking to see which kind of flux i need to buy and I already place the order.

Is difficult to remove the flux?, they sell some sprays to remove it, i thought just to remove the flux with alcohol, but i know alcohol can remove the brightness of the board (probably a protection layer or whatever)