VOGONS


First post, by Cosmic

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I had a perfectly working A-Trend ATC-6310M baby AT Slot 1 motherboard, 440ZX. It was passing every test and benchmark, then I turned it off for the night and it never turned back on. I'm hoping to find the fault and fix it. In short, there seems to be no attempt to power on when I press the switch. No shorts on the ATX or AT connector.

SOLVED: The same PSU on an ATX to AT adapter worked. The ATX connector seems to have stopped working, though I couldn't find any faults with it.

Here's a running timeline of everything I've done with the board so far:

Initial Setup

  • Took out of anti-static bag, the motherboard looks brand new, jumpers in their stock positions
  • Put in a fresh CMOS battery
  • Tested on the bench with minimal known good hardware, a Deschutes PII, 256 MB RAM, Rage PCI card, POST card, speaker, and ATX power. Booted right up!
  • Ran Memtest on the DIMM 1, passed, then put in two 256 MB DIMMs and Memtest passed twice
  • Switched to a Katmai PIII and a GeForce MX420 AGP, still POSTs
  • Installed into a baby AT case
  • Connected to an IDE disk I was using on a 440BX system with XP, and it booted right up and detected the new hardware
  • Up to this point, the board has successfully power cycled a couple times

With all the drivers installed under XP I started stress testing the board.

Successful Stress Tests

  • Memtest three times
  • 3DMark 2000 and 2001
  • Cinebench 2003
  • Counter Strike Source render test
  • Playing Halo, GTA 3, and UT2004 for a couple minutes
  • Lastly, I ran the "max heat and power" test in Prime95 for an hour or so

I needed to leave so I shutdown XP and turned off the PSU switch. When I returned and hit power button, nothing happened. No fan, no POST card lights, nothing. However, the power LED continuously blinks per JP5, "blink power LED", so the board at least has standby power.

Troubleshooting Steps

  • Took non-essential cards out
  • Tested the PSU with a tester. It's a modern 550W FSP Dagger Pro which I've used on several retro PCs, it passed on all rails
  • Left unplugged for a while, took out the CMOS battery, tried the CMOS reset jumper (JP8 to 2-3, then back to 1-2)
  • Put it back on the bench and tested with the original minimal hardware, including the known good Deschutes PII, no change
  • Checked for any bulging caps or burn marks, nothing
  • Dumped the BIOS chip and compared it against a reference online, it didn't match so I reflashed it from "1.1 01 WB" to "1.1 02 WB" from TheRetroWeb
  • The BIOS chip (ASD AE29F2008-12) flashed and verified on the first try and dumped the same ROM four times in a row, so I don't think it's faulty
  • The BIOS chip has continuity where expected on +12V (VPP), +5V (VCC), and ground
  • Took out the RAM, no change
  • Tried POST card in all slots, but it never lights up on any rail
  • Tested the power switch pins from the back of the board, they have continuity when I press the switch

Testing for Shorts

Next I started testing the ATX and AT connectors. Everything seems to look good and have correct continuity except for these two items:

  1. None of the +3.3V pins on the ATX connector have continuity, neither to each other nor to ground. My Soyo 440BX board does have continuity between +3.3V ATX pins 1, 2, and 11.
  2. There is continuity between +12V on the AT and ATX connectors down to AGP, PCI, and ISA +12V, but not to the CPU fan header, it disappears at resistor 80 which is right next to the header.

For #1 I'm wondering if the board generates its own +3.3V rail since it would be needed for PCI if the AT connector was used, so maybe it just uses that for AT and ATX. For #2 I'm guessing the fan isn't directly connected to +12V so that it can be PWM controlled.

Capacitors

The row of black caps by the slot 1 connector are CHOYO 1500 uF 6.3v. The big green caps in the (presumably VRM area) are SANYO 1500 uF 6.3v. The rest of the smaller caps seem to be "GL" brand. I don't have an ESR meter yet. A simple and probably useless test with my multimeter shows there is resistance across the biggest caps while in circuit, but I don't think that tells us much.

Final thoughts/questions

  • Maybe the caps had been unused since the board was manufactured, then me suddenly powering them up and stress testing the board somehow killed some? Should I get an ESR meter and plan to replace the caps, starting with the big caps first?
  • Could there be an issue with getting the "power on" signal from the case pins in the bottom right up to the ATX connector in the top left? Maybe the board is fine but the signal to turn on just isn't getting there?
  • Is no +3.3V on the ATX connector concerning? I don't know if that's normal or if some boards generate their own +3.3V.
  • Should I try the AT connector with a known good ATX-to-AT adapter, in case there's some issue with the ATX connector?

Resources and Photos

A copy of the manual can be found here on TheRetroWeb: https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/manual/63 … 55202933509.pdf. Here are a few photos of the board. If it'd be helpful to take more or better photos I will.

Any help would be super appreciated. I was thinking this was going to be my best, most stable, and favorite baby AT board until it suddenly died.

Thank you!

ATX connector results

J8oNFCh.png

AT connector results

zaXLRw9.png

Board front

7UaPhEw.jpg

Board back

pSN9XrV.jpg

Close-up of the power connectors

6M1G0tF.jpg

A view of the bigger capacitors

BTdG6ae.jpg

Last edited by Cosmic on 2023-03-29, 05:57. Edited 6 times in total.

Reply 1 of 9, by Nexxen

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Have you checked mosfets voltages? One should generate the +2.0V required by the cpu (or the V needed).
With no cpu does it power on?
No +12V on fans can be a dead chip driving the fans: check traces from +12V to one of the chips onboard, +12 doesn't come straight from the PSU. Also "sense" line.
Once found look up for the corresponding datasheet and check.

Check I/O chip https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pd … W83977TF-A.html

Could also be a dead cap on the PSU rails, checked resistance?
It's gonna be boring as hell and up to months but hang in there.

Checked JP9?

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Reply 2 of 9, by Deunan

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What does "No fan, no POST card lights, nothing" mean, exactly? POST cards have LEDs for power rails, these also do not light up? Is the ATX PSU starting at all?
I would assume, since the 3V3 lines seem to be N/C and the mobo does have AT power connector too which lacks 3V3, that this voltage is generated by the mobo and these pins are not used. So my next step would be to use AT PSU instead of ATX to see if the problem is perhaps with the PSU itself. If the chipset does not start the PSU, other than simple wiring failure between power switch and mobo, would suggest some chipset issue.

Reply 3 of 9, by Cosmic

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Nexxen wrote on 2023-03-21, 15:17:
Have you checked mosfets voltages? One should generate the +2.0V required by the cpu (or the V needed). With no cpu does it powe […]
Show full quote

Have you checked mosfets voltages? One should generate the +2.0V required by the cpu (or the V needed).
With no cpu does it power on?
No +12V on fans can be a dead chip driving the fans: check traces from +12V to one of the chips onboard, +12 doesn't come straight from the PSU. Also "sense" line.
Once found look up for the corresponding datasheet and check.

Check I/O chip https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pd … W83977TF-A.html

Could also be a dead cap on the PSU rails, checked resistance?
It's gonna be boring as hell and up to months but hang in there.

Checked JP9?

Thanks for your reply, Nexxen! I have not yet checked the mosfet voltages. I assume there won't be any current as I don't think the power supply is delivering anything but +5V standby. It seems like the board does not ask the PSU to turn on. I will work on checking out the Winbond IO chip as well, thanks for the datasheet link.

JP9 toggles startup from keyboard or mouse, I tried it in both positions but no change unfortunately.

Would the PSU rail caps be the 6 big caps behind the slot 1 connector on the motherboard? I believe the PSU itself is okay, it tested okay externally, but I have another PSU I can try as well. I traced one +12V rail going down through the AGP, PCI, and ISA slots along the back of the board, so at least that one isn't going through any caps I can see.

Deunan wrote on 2023-03-21, 16:18:

What does "No fan, no POST card lights, nothing" mean, exactly? POST cards have LEDs for power rails, these also do not light up? Is the ATX PSU starting at all?
I would assume, since the 3V3 lines seem to be N/C and the mobo does have AT power connector too which lacks 3V3, that this voltage is generated by the mobo and these pins are not used. So my next step would be to use AT PSU instead of ATX to see if the problem is perhaps with the PSU itself. If the chipset does not start the PSU, other than simple wiring failure between power switch and mobo, would suggest some chipset issue.

Thanks Deunan. Indeed the POST card does not light up on any rail, it's as if pressing the power switch has no effect at all. The PSU has a fan which should briefly spin and it does not.

Thanks for confirming what I thought about the +3.3V, it seems not all boards use it directly from the PSU even though it's available. I have another working ATX PSU that's wired up with an AT adapter, so I will give that a try to see if there's any difference.

Update: ATX pin 14 "PS_ON#" is supposed to turn on the PSU when it's shorted to ground. Without the PSU plugged in I confirmed it does not short to ground when I press the power button. Instead I can see this pin routing over to the Winbond IO chip before it disappears into a via, so I assume the Winbond chip handles the actual PSU power on function.

Update: The Winbond chips accepts +5V on pins 15 and 56 and ground on 25, 40, 65, and 90. I'll check these.

Reply 4 of 9, by bogdanpaulb

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Can you measure with a multimeter in 'diode/continuity' mode on the mb without anything connected (not even the cmos battery) atx pin 'power ok'(power good) , atx pin 5v SB(standby) and atx 5v (main rail) related to ground in both ways (black lead to ground/red lead to ground) ?

Reply 5 of 9, by rasz_pl

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3.3V is normal, AT/ATX combo boards generate it themselves
fan header might be speed controlled, wont have direct connection to 12V
ATX pin 14 "PS_ON#" is controlled by Winbond as you traced

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/v … 83977EF-AW.html on first glance this chip just handles buffering/latching power button signal and has no voltage monitoring facilities, doesnt even check powergood.

Unplug everything form the motherboard except the supply, stick multimeter probe into ATX connector pin 14 "PS_ON#", set multimeter to voltage mode, press button and see if reading changes.

There are two possibilities
1 W83977EF doesnt get power or is somehow broken
2 there is a short on the board/excessive power draw and ATX supply detects that not letting itself power on

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Reply 6 of 9, by Horun

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Have you tried a AT PSU ? It seems those dual AT- ATX boards failing come up often more lately.
Have had a few die recently with no visible damage or explanation other than one still worked OK from AT PSU but not from ATX. Sorry cannot help other than that..

Hate posting a reply and then have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. Stuff: https://archive.org/details/@horun

Reply 7 of 9, by Cosmic

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It's alive! Using an ATX to AT adapter worked. Thanks everybody for the ideas and suggestions.

I still don't know why the ATX adapter worked then stopped working seemingly for no reason, but I planned to fit it into an AT case anyway, so it works out.

bogdanpaulb wrote on 2023-03-21, 22:03:

Can you measure with a multimeter in 'diode/continuity' mode on the mb without anything connected (not even the cmos battery) atx pin 'power ok'(power good) , atx pin 5v SB(standby) and atx 5v (main rail) related to ground in both ways (black lead to ground/red lead to ground) ?

This was an interesting troubleshooting step I hadn't tried before. Here are the results of the diode tests:

  • ATX pin 8 (power good) - black to ground = open loop, red to ground = no beep 1.2V
  • ATX pin 9 (standby) - black to ground = no beep 2.2V, red to ground = beep 0.4V
  • ATX pin 5 (+5VDC) - black to ground = beep 0.5V, red to ground = beep 0.3V
rasz_pl wrote on 2023-03-22, 01:21:
3.3V is normal, AT/ATX combo boards generate it themselves fan header might be speed controlled, wont have direct connection to […]
Show full quote

3.3V is normal, AT/ATX combo boards generate it themselves
fan header might be speed controlled, wont have direct connection to 12V
ATX pin 14 "PS_ON#" is controlled by Winbond as you traced

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/v … 83977EF-AW.html on first glance this chip just handles buffering/latching power button signal and has no voltage monitoring facilities, doesnt even check powergood.

Unplug everything form the motherboard except the supply, stick multimeter probe into ATX connector pin 14 "PS_ON#", set multimeter to voltage mode, press button and see if reading changes.

There are two possibilities
1 W83977EF doesnt get power or is somehow broken
2 there is a short on the board/excessive power draw and ATX supply detects that not letting itself power on

I measured open loop between PS_ON# and ground with the PSU connected and pressing the power switch. I accidentally bumped the leads together and shorted PS_ON# to ground (ask PSU to turn on) and heard the PSU click, but nothing else happened, granted there was also no CPU or RAM. I wonder if manually turning on an ATX PSU would still work, but I'm afraid to test now that it's working!

I also checked all of the VCC, VSB, and ground pins on the W83977EF IO chip. It was challenging with how small the pins on the PQFP package are, but continuity tests to these pins passed / no shorts.

Horun wrote on 2023-03-22, 01:43:

Have you tried a AT PSU ? It seems those dual AT- ATX boards failing come up often more lately.
Have had a few die recently with no visible damage or explanation other than one still worked OK from AT PSU but not from ATX. Sorry cannot help other than that..

Thanks for the suggestion. I wonder if it's something to do with modern PSUs on old 20-pin ATX connectors. I have another combo board I used the same PSU on that also doesn't start, maybe I need to try the AT connector there too.

Here is the board finally restarted. I like to think the POST card is two segments away from saying YE-HA.

YxkbHYI.jpg

And here it is in case running 3DMark2000:

Vhmu9vq.jpg

Cheers everyone for the help!

Reply 8 of 9, by bogdanpaulb

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Cosmic wrote on 2023-03-29, 05:52:
It's alive! Using an ATX to AT adapter worked. Thanks everybody for the ideas and suggestions. […]
Show full quote

It's alive! Using an ATX to AT adapter worked. Thanks everybody for the ideas and suggestions.

I still don't know why the ATX adapter worked then stopped working seemingly for no reason, but I planned to fit it into an AT case anyway, so it works out.

bogdanpaulb wrote on 2023-03-21, 22:03:

Can you measure with a multimeter in 'diode/continuity' mode on the mb without anything connected (not even the cmos battery) atx pin 'power ok'(power good) , atx pin 5v SB(standby) and atx 5v (main rail) related to ground in both ways (black lead to ground/red lead to ground) ?

This was an interesting troubleshooting step I hadn't tried before. Here are the results of the diode tests:

  • ATX pin 8 (power good) - black to ground = open loop, red to ground = no beep 1.2V
  • ATX pin 9 (standby) - black to ground = no beep 2.2V, red to ground = beep 0.4V
  • ATX pin 5 (+5VDC) - black to ground = beep 0.5V, red to ground = beep 0.3V
rasz_pl wrote on 2023-03-22, 01:21:
3.3V is normal, AT/ATX combo boards generate it themselves fan header might be speed controlled, wont have direct connection to […]
Show full quote

3.3V is normal, AT/ATX combo boards generate it themselves
fan header might be speed controlled, wont have direct connection to 12V
ATX pin 14 "PS_ON#" is controlled by Winbond as you traced

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/v … 83977EF-AW.html on first glance this chip just handles buffering/latching power button signal and has no voltage monitoring facilities, doesnt even check powergood.

Unplug everything form the motherboard except the supply, stick multimeter probe into ATX connector pin 14 "PS_ON#", set multimeter to voltage mode, press button and see if reading changes.

There are two possibilities
1 W83977EF doesnt get power or is somehow broken
2 there is a short on the board/excessive power draw and ATX supply detects that not letting itself power on

I measured open loop between PS_ON# and ground with the PSU connected and pressing the power switch. I accidentally bumped the leads together and shorted PS_ON# to ground (ask PSU to turn on) and heard the PSU click, but nothing else happened, granted there was also no CPU or RAM. I wonder if manually turning on an ATX PSU would still work, but I'm afraid to test now that it's working!

I also checked all of the VCC, VSB, and ground pins on the W83977EF IO chip. It was challenging with how small the pins on the PQFP package are, but continuity tests to these pins passed / no shorts.

Horun wrote on 2023-03-22, 01:43:

Have you tried a AT PSU ? It seems those dual AT- ATX boards failing come up often more lately.
Have had a few die recently with no visible damage or explanation other than one still worked OK from AT PSU but not from ATX. Sorry cannot help other than that..

Thanks for the suggestion. I wonder if it's something to do with modern PSUs on old 20-pin ATX connectors. I have another combo board I used the same PSU on that also doesn't start, maybe I need to try the AT connector there too.

Here is the board finally restarted. I like to think the POST card is two segments away from saying YE-HA.

YxkbHYI.jpg

And here it is in case running 3DMark2000:

Vhmu9vq.jpg

Cheers everyone for the help!

ATX pin 9 (standby) - black to ground = no beep 2.2, red to ground = beep 0.4 seems to be on the off side, but maybe is just the design of the board.
Can you enable power on via keyboard from the bios and test it with ATX psu plunged in directly (jp9 should be placed in pos 2-3 for this)? There should be no chances of breaking something in doing so.

Reply 9 of 9, by Ydee

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I remember PC Partner board with AT/ATX and i440LX, where was jumper for setting, which PSU is used (seems it is not presented on your board) and even in BIOS setup was option for AT/ATX selection. But must say, board work with ATX PSU even with option AT in BIOS, as this was default settings.