The board is missing the BIOS and keyboard controller (socket on the top-left). This board has two BIOS, Low and High. Try the link below.

The Retro Web
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/digico … -286v#downloads

dominusprog wrote on 2023-08-18, 11:30:

The board is missing the BIOS and keyboard controller (socket on the top-left). This board has two BIOS, Low and High. Try the link below.

The Retro Web
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/digico … -286v#downloads

that's not the same mainboard though. similar. not the same.

this is the 'microhouse' manual... though no idea what the link is between the microhouse id and theretroweb page
https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/manual/33640.pdf

oh well, found it
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/ami-28 … board#downloads

Thanks @dominusprog, indeed the keyboard controller is also missing. Wondering how to find a replacement for keyboard controller as well?

vmr_ wrote on 2023-08-18, 11:39:

Thanks @dominusprog, indeed the keyboard controller is also missing. Wondering how to find a replacement for keyboard controller as well?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304566752199?hash=it … ABk9SR87uzofBYg

Thanks @weedeewee, also checked here for 286 BIOS images - so far no luck

80286 BIOS image collection

weedeewee wrote on 2023-08-18, 11:38:

oh well, found it
https://theretroweb.com/motherboards/s/ami-28 … board#downloads

He/She is looking for BIOS, not manual.

in the absence of original BIOS image, I came across this list of generic BIOSes for IBM compatible boards/machines: http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/bios/bios.htm

Will give it a try for the 286 version, using W27E257-12 EEPROMS - once chips arrive.

Also came across XTIDE Universal BIOS - wondering if this would work as BIOS replacement for my 286 mobo.
https://www.lo-tech.co.uk/wiki/XTIDE_Universal_BIOS

Are there any other "generic" BIOSes for 286 known to work on a wide number of motherboards?

So, why not try bios image from link in post #2 provided by dominusprog ? This motherboard have exact same chipset, so it (probably) will work just fine.

@zyga64 will try it for sure, I missed that link for BIOS with HI and LO images.

Also found MR BIOS generic 286 VLSI bios - to also try it. Have a few options now, the long wait to get the EEPROM chips from China starts today 😀

If this board was manufactured by AMI, it would really surprise me, because all of the ones I've seen are clearly marked with the manufacturer's name, model name and series number.

The link below will provide both High and Low in a single zip file. You can also modify the ROM before flashing them using the BIOS Patcher. Check out Necroware on YouTube for tutorials.

BIOS
https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/bios/ftk- … 13708064340.zip

Necroware
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwZT40sRMzM

while waiting for the EEPROMs and keyboard controller to arrive, I dug out from storage another 286 VLSI motherboard (not same model, but at least another VLSI chipset) - so planning to test with these EPROMS and corresponding keyboard controller.

Motherboard with 'new' AMI BIOS and keyboard controller chips - not powered yet.

for validation with community: the even BIOS chip goes in the lower / even numbered socket U50 ; the odd BIOS chip goes in the upper / odd numbered socket U51

Odd is High and Even is Low.

dominusprog wrote on 2023-08-22, 15:03:

Odd is High and Even is Low.

the board missing the chips has no HI/LO marking - just judging by socket numbers 😀

what could possibly go wrong if I switch the BIOS chips?

vmr_ wrote on 2023-08-22, 15:07:

what could possibly go wrong if I switch the BIOS chips?

No danger at all, other than the board not working at all due to being unable to execute BIOS code. In that case just swap the chips and try again.

Do take care of installing the ROM chips in the correct orientation though.

TheMobRules wrote on 2023-08-22, 15:13:

vmr_ wrote on 2023-08-22, 15:07:

what could possibly go wrong if I switch the BIOS chips?

Do take care of installing the ROM chips in the correct orientation though.

thanks for clarification, will give it a try soon and share the update here 😀

Well, first test done - with somehow unexpected 🙁 results: one of the tantalum capacitors close to power socket exploded with a bit of fireworks and smoke.

Luckily the board was mounted in an enclosed case, so it was contained.

Maybe a full recap is required to replace all those tantalum capacitors? or just the burnt one?

It´s recommended to replace all Tantalums in the +12V and -12V rails by 10µF 25V types of current production and made by some renowned manufacturer like AVX.