This burned connector is not due to PSU fault, but from bad connection with some motherboard.

It is hard to say which one is good and which is not just by pictures of PSU's stickers. Better off open each one and see the internal components and schematics.

P.S. FSP (Fortron) once were bad, then were average quality, then again - awful. Dell, HP and other "branded" PSUs - not known which OEM manufacturer they're made by.

Mw personally, I'd keep all of Pic 1, nothing spectacularly good, but all are usually good for the longer haul, as long as they're working right currently. The 2nd pic, the only one that seems worth bothering with is the Power Man which seems to be a Fortron/Souce FSP unit. LC Power one is definite trash, the others could be short term useful, I dunno HEC might even be alright.

If you don't have the knowledge which PSUs are better in quality and schematics once you open them to see the internals, the absolutely "amateur method" of judgement: leave the heavier ones and the rest - for gifting/recycling/trash.

Do you have a multimeter? I'd test each PSU and get rid of any that are putting out out-of-spec voltages.

analog_programmer wrote on 2023-10-01, 14:36:

Dell, HP and other "branded" PSUs - not known which OEM manufacturer they're made by.

Dell = Lite-On
HP = Chicony/Hipro
LC-Power = Huntkey
Rhombu-Tech = Huntkey
HEC/Heroichi = own OEM
Powerman = FSP

Notes:
- Dell unit is okay though beware for non-standard pinout on the ATX main cable
- HP unit is also okay though check and replace Asiacon caps
- LC-Power is enough for a low power unit like 775 Pentium
- Rhombu-Tech idk though slight chances it could be same thing as LC-Power (I need some pictures of that unit in particular to be able to assess - the others I've seen and the LC-Power unit, I own one)
- HEC units are pretty solid from what I remember, very little enhancements needed (at best, caps, like usual)
- Powerman is FSP so whatever was said for FSP applies.

I'll try to find the time to open them later today or tomorrow and post some more pics. Thanks for all the input.

Shponglefan wrote on 2023-10-01, 14:56:

Do you have a multimeter? I'd test each PSU and get rid of any that are putting out out-of-spec voltages.

I have one but isn't it easier to read out the values in the BIOS?

PcBytes wrote on 2023-10-01, 15:14:

Dell = Lite-On HP = Chicony/Hipro LC-Power = Huntkey Rhombu-Tech = Huntkey HEC/Heroichi = own OEM Powerman = FSP […]
Show full quote

Dell = Lite-On
HP = Chicony/Hipro
LC-Power = Huntkey
Rhombu-Tech = Huntkey
HEC/Heroichi = own OEM
Powerman = FSP

That's useful info, but... I have had very bad experience with Lite-on and FSP PSUs in the past, so personally I wouldn't rely solely on brands and labels. Best option is to see the schematics and measure the output voltages. The layman's method I've also mentioned it: the heavier - possibly (but not for sure) with higher quality.

HanSolo wrote on 2023-10-01, 15:29:

I have one but isn't it easier to read out the values in the BIOS?

It's easier, but it's not more accurate.

I wouldn't rely on weight. I have a 500W FSP (AOpen OEM,AOPEN model Z500-12AE3,FSP model FSP500-60APN) that is just as heavy as a generic dollar store unit yet is decently populated inside, and has powered a i7-920 (130W TDP)+ HD7950 (200W TDP) without issues, while a "china special" Intertech FP-750W that was twice as heavy would shut down with the same load.

PcBytes wrote on 2023-10-01, 15:38:

I wouldn't rely on weight. I have a 500W FSP (AOpen OEM,AOPEN model Z500-12AE3,FSP model FSP500-60APN) that is just as heavy as a generic dollar store unit yet is decently populated inside, and has powered a i7-920 (130W TDP)+ HD7950 (200W TDP) without issues, while a "china special" Intertech FP-750W that was twice as heavy would shut down with the same load.

Me too. But I don't have any other recommendations for people without any knowledge of electronics and circuitry. I already mentioned that I don't strictly rely on brands for quality either.

P.S. If I had to choose a PSU just by the labels, with no options to see internals and measure voltages (i.e. shopping for a PSU by ad), I'd choose what BitWrangler has already written, keeping "one thing in mind" for the consumer trusted brands I mentioned.

Weight though should be becoming less of a guide for post ~2015 units, as a 90% efficiency unit has to lose only 10% of power as heat, so needs half the heatsink capability of a 80% efficient cheaper model.

I've already figured out that HanSolo is not much into multimeter measurements. Most PSUs from the pictures seems to be pre-2010 models. What can I recommend him as a method of evaluation, since labels don't guarantee quality either?

My experience (so n=1) is that FSP (2 and 8 ) is usually good stuff, but check the internals. Make sure they have active PFC.

Lol @ #5. 40 Amps was too much for that poor connector. And I thought 30A was a lot from my 360W Zalman...

PD2JK wrote on 2023-10-01, 16:47:

My experience (so n=1) is that FSP (2 and 8 ) is usually good stuff, but check the internals. Make sure they have active PFC.

Lol @ #5. 40 Amps was too much for that poor connector. And I thought 30A was a lot from my 360W Zalman...

I would be very cautious using APFC-based FSP units.

I'm not saying they shouldn't be used... just not without some constant check-up every now and then.

Powerman is made by FSP group. Keep that one. Throw away last 3 except Powerman. First picture keep them as well. OEM computers tend to have better quality PSUs.

Cheers,

pentiumspeed wrote on 2023-10-01, 17:24:

Powerman is made by FSP group. Keep that one. Throw away last 3 except Powerman. First picture keep them as well. OEM computers tend to have better quality PSUs.

Cheers,

I would keep the HEC too. The link I added on this post points to the 250W version, but I suppose the 300W isn't too far from it.

If it's a ATX with negative 5V supply, it's an automatic keeper!

So here's the first batch (#5-#8) of photos from the inside. Hope that helps.
My subjective opinion:
#5 (Rhombu Tech) feels nice and modern because of the shiny metal, a 12cm fan on the bottom and because the ATX cord is wrapped this in black mesh-stuff like most modern PSU.
#6 (LC Power) feels light and has short cables
#7 (HEC) is heavier than the others and from the photos it is obvious that it contains a lot of metal
#8 (Power Man) is also more on the heavier side and has longer cables. Apart from the usual ones it has ONE plug that looks like an AT-power plug, so it's slightly unusual. I have a Dell PPro-system that uses an ATX plug AND such a single AT plug. Don't know if that could have anything to do with it.

LC Power - this one is cheapest piece of sh*t for trash bin.
Rhombu Tech - if voltages are within specs, give it to someone who can replace the burned connector to use it with some not so power hungry old system(I don't think this one will handle 400+ W for long even it's marked as 550 W).
Power Man (FSP/Fortron) and HEC - keep these.

A must for such an old power supplies before you decide to use them is to measure the voltages of their outputs with some load attached (for example a few old defective hard drives).

Hope that once you've opened them, at least you've cleaned dust and accumulated dirt 😀