Impressively ugly beast, congratulations!
Its Medion, German supermarket PC brand known for shipping lowest price dreg in their builds. They had enough volume to order directly from MSI and get custom SKUs. They were never known for reliability. Looks like Lenovo absorbed Medion in 2011, but this PC is pre that. Curious how Disney, US corporation, got custom PCs build by German supermarket brand 😮

All caps look lovely on your motherboard (FIC), sadly this isnt a guarantee since this is from prime Pentium 4 bad caps timeframe. Same goes for Power Supply. I would start by trying to power if from another standard desktop ATX PSU. You dont have to worry about +5V amperage, board uses AUX 12V connector for CPU power.

>Non-serviceable innards, I'm told.

everything is serviceable if you are determined enough 😀 PSU might just need cap replacement.

>I get a Disney splash screen when I power up the monitor

even monitor runs custom firmware, Nice! Makes me curious if board also has custom bios.

A really nice find from about 2004/2005 ! Originally went for about $1000 from little research. But to be honest I hate the look of that thing 🤣
"The ... 2.66 GHz Celeron 330 processor, 256MB of RAM, integrated graphics, and 5,400-rpm hard drive (only a 40GB unit) conspire to keep the Dream PC from becoming a performance leader, even among value-priced PCs. But it is adequate for educational programs and surfing the Internet. Thankfully, the unit has an 8X AGP slot, making it easy to upgrade the system to run the latest 3D games. (If you do, be sure to upgrade the 256MB of memory using one of the three free DIMM slots.)"
So a Soc 478 board and the cpu is Celery D Prescott 533mhz bus so not all bad. Fairly good late vintage find IMHO

rasz_pl wrote on 2023-11-04, 01:25:

Impressively ugly beast, congratulations! Its Medion, German supermarket PC brand known for shipping lowest price dreg in their […]
Show full quote

Impressively ugly beast, congratulations!
Its Medion, German supermarket PC brand known for shipping lowest price dreg in their builds. They had enough volume to order directly from MSI and get custom SKUs. They were never known for reliability. Looks like Lenovo absorbed Medion in 2011, but this PC is pre that. Curious how Disney, US corporation, got custom PCs build by German supermarket brand 😮

All caps look lovely on your motherboard (FIC), sadly this isnt a guarantee since this is from prime Pentium 4 bad caps timeframe. Same goes for Power Supply. I would start by trying to power if from another standard desktop ATX PSU. You dont have to worry about +5V amperage, board uses AUX 12V connector for CPU power.

>Non-serviceable innards, I'm told.

everything is serviceable if you are determined enough 😀 PSU might just need cap replacement.

>I get a Disney splash screen when I power up the monitor

even monitor runs custom firmware, Nice! Makes me curious if board also has custom bios.

Thanks!

I'm glad that you also enjoy this funny machine. I may try to open the PSU and have a look around once I find all my electricity safety stuff.

From your point of view though, do you think it would be wiser to use another FSP power supply from the same time period, or a slightly newer one from a different manufacturer? I'm seeing a few for sale, some pulled from Dell towers and others currently being made, but nothing too "new" in terms of 250W PSUs; it appears the vast majority are just more powerful these days. Regardless, I'm most likely going to have to purchase a cable extension or two in order to match the connections I need, but I'm not too worried about anything melting with a 250W PSU, probably just going to replace anything that works with a 500W in the future anyway (if I can actually get it operational) so that I can add a GPU and so on.

I would really appreciate if you could check these units out (in no particular order) and make me a quick recommendation.
Bizarrely, I even came across PSUs that are marketed as replacements for FSP units. I've got my eye on one, it's No. 3 below:

1. FSP250-50SAV(PF) (may need a Molex 4-pin splitter)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334900555089

2. FSP Group ATX-250PA (1)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266441391516

3. LXun 250W FSP250-60ATV(PF) (marketed as FSP250-60PFN replacement)
https://www.amazon.com/LXun-FSP250-60ATV-Comp … /dp/B0BRPQ64JC/

4. PUSOKEI ATX-250W PC Power Supply (I would need to find a way to include a 4-pin ATX connector and a 4-pin floppy drive connector)
https://www.amazon.com/PUSOKEI-ATX-250W-Deskt … e/dp/B09WV7JFR2

5. Ptcliss 250W H250AD-00 (needs the 4-pin floppy drive connector and two Molex 4-pins)
https://www.amazon.com/Ptcliss-H250AD-00-Opti … s/dp/B0BHKWRT6K

Horun wrote on 2023-11-04, 02:19:

A really nice find from about 2004/2005 ! Originally went for about $1000 from little research. But to be honest I hate the look of that thing 🤣
"The ... 2.66 GHz Celeron 330 processor, 256MB of RAM, integrated graphics, and 5,400-rpm hard drive (only a 40GB unit) conspire to keep the Dream PC from becoming a performance leader, even among value-priced PCs. But it is adequate for educational programs and surfing the Internet. Thankfully, the unit has an 8X AGP slot, making it easy to upgrade the system to run the latest 3D games. (If you do, be sure to upgrade the 256MB of memory using one of the three free DIMM slots.)"
So a Soc 478 board and the cpu is Celery D Prescott 533mhz bus so not all bad. Fairly good late vintage find IMHO

Happy to share! I'll be sure to explore which upgrades can be made to this absolute yoinky sploinky of a unit if I can breathe new life into it.

Hopefully many more posts to come out of this. It's supposed to be somewhat capable of playing 3D games the likes of ToonTown but I don't wanna stop until it passes the quintessential Crysis test, if that's even possible with this or any other CPU that would work in the socket.

Looks like a FIC P4M-RS350/L from the print. You might be able to upgrade to a P4 800Mhz bus cpu unless the special "disney" bios has some limitations, a P4 3Ghz 533bus should work, maybe.
The board has no jumpers except for Clear Cmos near the coin cell and cpu is auto detected by BIOS (no bios settings for multiplier, FSB, etc.afaik) You can use the FIC P4M-RS300 manual as a partial guide.
specs archive: http://web.archive.org/web/20051123192142/htt … /P4M-RS350.aspx
added: the driver cd would be FIC 1stUtilities v1.27 from the link and contents found here: http://cwcyrix.nsupdate.info/ftp-archives/ftp … tilities_v1.27/
added 2: the original Medion archive of the Disney Dream Desk (they built it for Disney): https://web.archive.org/web/20041209104758/ht … ey_products.htm

Horun wrote on 2023-11-04, 16:02:

Looks like a FIC P4M-RS350/L from the print. You might be able to upgrade to a P4 800Mhz bus cpu unless the special "disney" bios has some limitations, a P4 3Ghz 533bus should work, maybe.
The board has no jumpers except for Clear Cmos near the coin cell and cpu is auto detected by BIOS (no bios settings for multiplier, FSB, etc.afaik) You can use the FIC P4M-RS300 manual as a partial guide.

Thanks dude this forum is the best, I'm still learning but I'm very thankful to be in the right place.

I originally considered making this post on Reddit but I probably would have just received a few dozen upvotes instead of meaningful advice. Perhaps when it's running again...

Gonzoville wrote on 2023-11-04, 14:50:

1. FSP250-50SAV(PF) (may need a Molex 4-pin splitter) https://www.ebay.com/itm/334900555089 […]
Show full quote

1. FSP250-50SAV(PF) (may need a Molex 4-pin splitter)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334900555089

2. FSP Group ATX-250PA (1)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266441391516

3. LXun 250W FSP250-60ATV(PF) (marketed as FSP250-60PFN replacement)
https://www.amazon.com/LXun-FSP250-60ATV-Comp … /dp/B0BRPQ64JC/

4. PUSOKEI ATX-250W PC Power Supply (I would need to find a way to include a 4-pin ATX connector and a 4-pin floppy drive connector)
https://www.amazon.com/PUSOKEI-ATX-250W-Deskt … e/dp/B09WV7JFR2

5. Ptcliss 250W H250AD-00 (needs the 4-pin floppy drive connector and two Molex 4-pins)
https://www.amazon.com/Ptcliss-H250AD-00-Opti … s/dp/B0BHKWRT6K

There is no such thing a a brand new 250W ATX PSU, those are all old units and as likely to quickly die on you as your current one. Dont be so hung up on looking for FSP power supply either. ATX is ATX, and this board is new enough it doesnt require old style powerful 5V rail supplies. Any modern unit that physically fits in the case will work just fine.

Gonzoville wrote on 2023-11-04, 14:50:

some pulled from Dell towers

DELL supplies are not standard ATX https://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=339053

Start by trying to power PC with another normal modern ATX supply first to verify if its your source of no boot.

The faceplate and feet of my Dream Desk PC desintegrated into one million pieces.
I have all other original parts as spare parts.

From the pictures it looks like you are missing the plastic back cover for the pc. It looks just like the front plastic but to slide on the back side to cover it (probably to prevent children from getting access to the cables).
Mine is still in perfect shape, and i have seen it nowhere else to buy.

I cant get myself to sell my spare stuff... But maybe you are interested in a trade?

rasz_pl wrote on 2023-11-04, 01:25:

They had enough volume to order directly from MSI and get custom SKUs.

This!
They odered some custom made video cards like "Radeon 8655" and everyone thought they would perform in the range between 8000 and 9000, while in fact they were not even 7000.

sorry to disagree but this picture is def a FIC P4M-RS350: https://i.imgur.com/Ys9VtR4.jpeg

Horun wrote on 2023-11-04, 21:40:

sorry to disagree but this picture is def a FIC P4M-RS350: https://i.imgur.com/Ys9VtR4.jpeg

did someone claim another model and deleted his post in the mean time? 😀

No I am tired and misread something as I went over the topic again.. my bad ;p

DerBaum wrote on 2023-11-04, 21:09:

The faceplate and feet of my Dream Desk PC desintegrated into one million pieces. I have all other original parts as spare parts […]
Show full quote

The faceplate and feet of my Dream Desk PC desintegrated into one million pieces.
I have all other original parts as spare parts.

From the pictures it looks like you are missing the plastic back cover for the pc. It looks just like the front plastic but to slide on the back side to cover it (probably to prevent children from getting access to the cables).
Mine is still in perfect shape, and i have seen it nowhere else to buy.

I cant get myself to sell my spare stuff... But maybe you are interested in a trade?

Yooo I snapped three of the four clips taking off the front cover, very very brittle plastic 🤣
It's actually something I'm kind of kicking myself over, now that I realize the front cover probably doesn't even need to come off in order to service the PC. I saved the plastic pieces to potentially stick them back on once the face plate is there again, picking them all up was like playing Operation.

I do have the other cover though, it's lying down in the background here: https://i.imgur.com/iHqAv6M.jpeg

I cant get myself to sell my spare stuff... But maybe you are interested in a trade?

Well, needless to say I may be interested in procuring the PSU in that bad boy. It'd be the only other exact match I've come across online to date, if that's an option. Will DM.

EDIT: Oop, I'm too new for that. We'll work something out if it's meant to be I guess.

rasz_pl wrote on 2023-11-04, 20:30:

There is no such thing a a brand new 250W ATX PSU, those are all old units and as likely to quickly die on you as your current o […]
Show full quote

Gonzoville wrote on 2023-11-04, 14:50:

1. FSP250-50SAV(PF) (may need a Molex 4-pin splitter) https://www.ebay.com/itm/334900555089 […]
Show full quote

1. FSP250-50SAV(PF) (may need a Molex 4-pin splitter)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334900555089

2. FSP Group ATX-250PA (1)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266441391516

3. LXun 250W FSP250-60ATV(PF) (marketed as FSP250-60PFN replacement)
https://www.amazon.com/LXun-FSP250-60ATV-Comp … /dp/B0BRPQ64JC/

4. PUSOKEI ATX-250W PC Power Supply (I would need to find a way to include a 4-pin ATX connector and a 4-pin floppy drive connector)
https://www.amazon.com/PUSOKEI-ATX-250W-Deskt … e/dp/B09WV7JFR2

5. Ptcliss 250W H250AD-00 (needs the 4-pin floppy drive connector and two Molex 4-pins)
https://www.amazon.com/Ptcliss-H250AD-00-Opti … s/dp/B0BHKWRT6K

There is no such thing a a brand new 250W ATX PSU, those are all old units and as likely to quickly die on you as your current one. Dont be so hung up on looking for FSP power supply either. ATX is ATX, and this board is new enough it doesnt require old style powerful 5V rail supplies. Any modern unit that physically fits in the case will work just fine.

Gonzoville wrote on 2023-11-04, 14:50:

some pulled from Dell towers

DELL supplies are not standard ATX https://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=339053

Start by trying to power PC with another normal modern ATX supply first to verify if its your source of no boot.

Understood and many thanks, will report back here if we can make some magic happen.

If it we me: replace the coin cell, use a known good working standard ATX of about 300-350 watt (my Antec BasiQ 350 comes to mind) and test the board and stuff before even trying to find a replacement PSU...
added: A Hi Res image of the Mickey mouse system from Medion DE site 🤣

Horun wrote on 2023-11-05, 00:34:

If it we me: replace the coin cell, use a known good working standard ATX of about 300-350 watt (my Antec BasiQ 350 comes to mind) and test the board and stuff before even trying to find a replacement PSU...
added: A Hi Res image of the Mickey mouse system from Medion DE site 🤣

Ty, will do this too. Just remembered I got a spare ATX PSU in a box somewhere, going to investigate around the same time as I do coin cell run so that I'll at least be able to replace something whether or not the power supply is good.

I'd just slap a 300W fortron in there, not bother with keeping it 250W.

If you have to deal with any of the plastics again, try pre-warming them a bit with a hair dryer, might stave off the brittleness a bit.

BitWrangler wrote on 2023-11-05, 04:43:

I'd just slap a 300W fortron in there, not bother with keeping it 250W.

If you have to deal with any of the plastics again, try pre-warming them a bit with a hair dryer, might stave off the brittleness a bit.

Will keep those recs in mind, thanks. Any tips for getting the broken pieces back on? Would superglue be too harsh?

As far as an update for everyone, I searched my closet and located a lovely Bestec ATX0300D5WC! I had swapped it years ago for a 650W PSU in my Windows 7 machine to get a decent GPU (for the time) running, so I'm really hoping the need for more power was the only reason for putting it away. Aside, it's 300W and has all the connections I need; so, if it's still functional, it looks like it'll work fine for testing even though it might be a smidgen too wide to actually fit in the case. Either way, it gives me a reason to hold off on ordering another one for a little while.

Best to look on the backside of the large plastic piece to see what plastic it is. The usual type is ABS... if it's ABS, then parts that will be hidden when assembled can be glued with plumbers ABS cement, but that's usually dyed yellow so you won't want that anywhere it can be seen. Acetone though is a solvent for it, and painting the edges with acetone until they go sticky then forcing them together and leaving to dry for a day should mean you've chemically welded it back together. Other types of plastic might require different approaches.