Does the north bridge heatsink gets quickly hot or it just stays warm? also leave the board running for 1 minute and put your finger on the south bridge chipset and see if one spot on the chip is getting hot.

Karbist wrote on 2024-03-01, 20:56:

Does the north bridge heatsink gets quickly hot or it just stays warm? also leave the board running for 1 minute and put your finger on the south bridge chipset and see if one spot on the chip is getting hot.

North bridge heatsink slowly starts to get warm. I can't take it off becuse its soldered onto the mobo. South bridge is starting to get warm really slowly, but on the top part (where the intel logo is) its getting warmer a little bit faster. Also noticed CPU transistors aren't getting warm. Any ideas?

680μF 10v will most likely work just fine. What does the power good from the PS do?

Under the Intel logo is where the chip usually dies, you need to measure the resistance between the 3.3v standby rail to the ground,
I think this is where the 3.3v from PSU 5v standby gets created:

you need to verify it with your multimeter then disconnect the atx connector and measure the resistance.

kingcake wrote on 2024-03-02, 07:19:

680μF 10v will most likely work just fine. What does the power good from the PS do?

Power good signal, when mobo is on is 3.7v. If i jump start the psu without any load, it shows 5v. I will replace those caps and let you guys know if it did anything.

Karbist wrote on 2024-03-02, 07:30:

Under the Intel logo is where the chip usually dies, you need to measure the resistance between the 3.3v standby rail to the gro […]
Show full quote

Under the Intel logo is where the chip usually dies, you need to measure the resistance between the 3.3v standby rail to the ground,
I think this is where the 3.3v from PSU 5v standby gets created:

3.3.jpg

you need to verify it with your multimeter then disconnect the atx connector and measure the resistance.

On output pin the voltage is 3.26v. Mesuring the resistance form:
output pin to ground shows 487 ohms
input pin to ground shows 2940 ohms
Any ideas?

Subscribing to this thread as I have a very similar issue with a P5Q PRO motherboard (POST card shows stuck in reset), except in my case I cannot spot any obviously defective caps...

Replacing the two caps did not change anything. Any ideas?

kotel wrote on 2024-03-02, 13:00:

On output pin the voltage is 3.26v. Mesuring the resistance form: output pin to ground shows 487 ohms input pin to ground shows […]
Show full quote

On output pin the voltage is 3.26v. Mesuring the resistance form:
output pin to ground shows 487 ohms
input pin to ground shows 2940 ohms
Any ideas?

The resistance on standby 3.3v is pretty good.
about the cpu is not getting warm, have you measured the 2 the inductors near the cpu socket to verify that you are missing vcore?
if you are getting under 1 volt on those inductors, it could be the vrm pwm ic is not getting the enable signal or there's faulty mosfet /driver/pwm ic in the vrm circuit.

The resistance on standby 3.3v is pretty good.
about the cpu is not getting warm, have you measured the 2 the inductors near the cpu socket to verify that you are missing vcore?
if you are getting under 1 volt on those inductors, it could be the vrm pwm ic is not getting the enable signal or there's faulty mosfet /driver/pwm ic in the vrm circuit.

On L4B1 inductor (next to the 4 pin CPU power) it measures 12.3v. On both L3B1 and L1B1 its 0v. I also forgot to mention that the speaker after mobo turn on clicks 1 time.

kotel wrote on 2024-03-03, 09:41:

On L4B1 inductor (next to the 4 pin CPU power) it measures 12.3v. On both L3B1 and L1B1 its 0v. I also forgot to mention that the speaker after mobo turn on clicks 1 time.

Do you have at least 1.2v on pin 11 of pwm IC (ADP3168)?

Karbist wrote on 2024-03-03, 10:15:

kotel wrote on 2024-03-03, 09:41:

On L4B1 inductor (next to the 4 pin CPU power) it measures 12.3v. On both L3B1 and L1B1 its 0v. I also forgot to mention that the speaker after mobo turn on clicks 1 time.

Do you have at least 1.2v on pin 11 of pwm IC (ADP3168)?
PWM.jpg

Theres 1.17v on pin 11.

So it's getting the enable signal but there's no cpu vcore. Are you using the right cpu for this board? some of these boards don't work with willamette P4, only Northwood and Prescott.

the next step is to check the mosfets, you need to measure the resistance between the gate leg of each mosfet to the ground,the mosfets on the high side should have the same resistance and the mosfets on the low side should have the same resistance.

then you need to measure every resistor below 10 ohms around the pwm ic and the mosfets to make sure they are not open.

Karbist wrote on 2024-03-03, 18:33:

So it's getting the enable signal but there's no cpu vcore. Are you using the right cpu for this board? some of these boards don't work with willamette P4, only Northwood and Prescott.

the next step is to check the mosfets, you need to measure the resistance between the gate leg of each mosfet to the ground,the mosfets on the high side should have the same resistance and the mosfets on the low side should have the same resistance.

then you need to measure every resistor below 10 ohms around the pwm ic and the mosfets to make sure they are not open.

The CPU is an Celeron D 2.66ghz, which is supported. Mosfets Q3B2, Q3B1, Q2B1, Q1B1 all have 2.4 ohms on source, 5.55m ohms on gate, 2m ohms on drain. Q3B3, Q2B2, Q2B3, Q1B3 all have 1.9 ohms on source, 4 ohms on drain, 14m ohms on gate. Didn't find any open resistors.

It would be better to take measurement without the cpu in the socket, there are some weird readings in your post, source of high side mosfets is connected to drain of low side mosfets and you say they have 2.4 and 4 ohms. also source of low side mosfets is connected to the ground and you say it has 1.9 ohms, maybe your multimeter is acting up

here's my last suggestion, check pin 3 on each mosfet driver, it must have at least 2.5v or the output of driver will be disabled.

Karbist wrote on 2024-03-04, 08:20:

It would be better to take measurement without the cpu in the socket, there are some weird readings in your post, source of high side mosfets is connected to drain of low side mosfets and you say they have 2.4 and 4 ohms. also source of low side mosfets is connected to the ground and you say it has 1.9 ohms, maybe your multimeter is acting up

here's my last suggestion, check pin 3 on each mosfet driver, it must have at least 2.5v or the output of driver will be disabled.
pin3.jpg

Mosfet drivers have 2.97v. Without cpu and measuring with an Metex multimeter, on Q3B2, Q3B1, Q2B1, Q1B1 i get 242 ohms on source, 953k ohms on gate, 174k ohms on drain. On Q3B3, Q2B2, Q2B3, Q1B3 i get 1 ohm on source, 240 ohms on drain, 12m ohms on gate. Any ideas?

Re-flowing the mosfets did not resolve the issue. Any ideas?

kotel wrote on 2024-04-18, 15:37:

Re-flowing the mosfets did not resolve the issue. Any ideas?

Any power problem can cause active RESET signal !
Usually ICH gets PWROK (power OK) signal from VRMs and sets PLTRST (platform reset) into inactive state as an answer. Sometimes RESET for PCI bus (PCIRST) is controlled by a SIO chip instead of ICH.

If I were you I would also check typical problems: USB data lines (using ohmmeter to measure resistance of the each line to GND rail) and loose contacts under CPU socket and/or MCH (to put something soft under a mainboard in a necessary place and press slightly a heat-sink before powering a mainboard on)

Intel 865 Chipset Customer Reference Board Schematics

dr_st wrote on 2024-03-02, 13:57:

Subscribing to this thread as I have a very similar issue with a P5Q PRO motherboard (POST card shows stuck in reset), except in my case I cannot spot any obviously defective caps...

at least in your case "ASUS P5QL PRO REV 1.00G (BOARDVIEW)" is available

kotel wrote on 2024-03-01, 19:56:

Hi

I recently got an intel D865PERL motherboard. After power is restored it imminently turns on. Post card shows that cpu is stuck in reset and no post codes. There are also 2 bulging 560μF 6.3v caps, but i don't have any replacements on hand (closest i got is 680μF 10v). Tried diffrent cpu, psu's. Replaced CMOS battery but still nothing. Also cpu isn't getting warm, but the north bridge is. Any ideas what to try next?

ive had this issue with a couple of boards, i wouldnt have thought 2 buldging caps would prevent the board from working , i had an msi board with eleven 6.3v 1000uf caps, all buldging or leaking and the board still worked fine, tho caps can fail even if they look good so you can never be sure, those caps you have are close so i would try them out but i wouldnt run the board for long with them in. i think your problem is the bios, either a bad flash or its just corrupted for no reason which can happen. ive got a gigabyte board that does it every so often, ill plug it in and it turns itself on to a blank screen, it has dual bios probably for that reason, eventually i manage to get it to boot from the backup bios, then i reflash the bios. i've had other board do the same and its usually bios related, try a reflash or a new bios chip.