I would advice caution since you have no prior experience... since the components on the XR385 are surface mount ones , you can easily damage the pads they are soldered on.
If you find someone with a little experience it's a 5seconds job. If you decide to do it your self get a 15-20W soldering iron (not bigger!) with a fine tip, some leaded solder and flux/soldering paste.
Put some flux/paste on the solder area you will work, put a little solder on the tip of the iron (a little, not much and be quick touching the solder on the pcb with the tip if solder stays too long on the iron it becomes useless... infact you don't even need to put solder on the tip but it will help with your repair job, just don't let it much time on the iron), touch the solder pad of the capacitor and add some more solder if needed, it should form a nice little connection.
But do practice first, leave the iron on the spot too much and you risk damaging the cap, solder pad and any nearby component. Surface mount components are more difficult and sensitive than the traditional hole-thru ones.

Well, since I don't know anyone local that knows how to solder, I figured i'd learn a bit by soldering this now since i'm collecting more and more retro stuff: computers, parts, classic consoles, etc.

It's a good skill to learn for our hobby and I figure i'd jump right in and start with a slight resolder of a surface mount capacitor. 😜

I won't be desoldering it, just getting enough solder on it to stop it from wobbling. There's no corrosion anywhere on the board or caps so i'll assume that the cap was a bit lose from during shipping [got it from eBay about a year ago from the chinese guy that was selling them [double-fish1981], sucks that he ran out of them! I shoulda bought a couple of these boards when I had the chance to.]

If all you want to do is keep it from wobbling, you can safely use a hot glue gun to hold it down. The glue itself is of course non-conductive.

Put a drop of solder on the board, push the cap down and heat up the solder again until the cap drops back in place. That's not very difficult (Unless all you have is a 200W soldering gun) 😀

C9 is just another filter cap for the 5V rail. Even if you mess it up and remove the capacitor completely, the card will still work fine.

jwt27 wrote:

Put a drop of solder on the board, push the cap down and heat up the solder again until the cap drops back in place. That's not very difficult (Unless all you have is a 200W soldering gun) 😀

C9 is just another filter cap for the 5V rail. Even if you mess it up and remove the capacitor completely, the card will still work fine.

Thanks for the info on the C9, and the solder advice. Now I just need to get a soldering pen. 😜 😀

Any iron will do, as long as it has a fine tip and doesn't get too hot. A temperature controlled soldering station is ideal for small electronics.