If your speaking, specifically about the capacitors in the output-signal path, then a good quality, standard electrolytic should give it the sound it had before. A bipolar electrolytic is closer to ideal, electrically but this doesn't mean you will hear a difference. In either case, a good, last modification would be to add small film capacitors to the back-side of the card, bypassing the electrolytic output caps. This will allow for smoother, clearer highs. A value of anywhere from 0.1uF to 1.0uF is a good rule-of-thumb, and a Mylar or polystyrene variety is your best bet to keep the physical size low.

If this doesn't fix the problem (in all honesty, my first choice would be to change the small filter caps the come off the power traces of the bus slot) then you may want to also change the smaller input-signal caps feeding the output amplifier chip.

When I recapped my SB16, I replaced all the power trace caps and all caps that involve the amplifier IC. I used low-impedance caps and it was hella loud using the powered output with my MDR-V700's, but they are made to take 1W+ so it was all good.

^ This

Recapping as describbed above is the only way to fix this card and will more than likely improve it considerably but only get the best caps not the cheap junk.

Thats what i wanted to hear 😀
I pretty much only want to refresh the capacitor part since its old and dying. But i didn't know about film capacitor thing, can you tell me more?
I also read somewhere that better oscillator also improves over all quality.

Which cap models / brad would you suggest for electrolyte replacement?

If it's only on the right channel, and only with OPL3 playing, check the SMD cap on YMF718 pin 97. If it's bad, you should replace the one on pin 98 too (to make sure they're identical).

Stojke wrote:

Thats what i wanted to hear :) I pretty much only want to refresh the capacitor part since its old and dying. But i didn't know […]
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Thats what i wanted to hear 😀
I pretty much only want to refresh the capacitor part since its old and dying. But i didn't know about film capacitor thing, can you tell me more?
I also read somewhere that better oscillator also improves over all quality.

Which cap models / brad would you suggest for electrolyte replacement?

Nichicon have been the market leader in caps for DECADES. They even have an assortment of caps specially designed for what you are doing. Look for their Gold series.

Audio-class caps don't make one bit of difference, and so-called enthusiasts can't differentiate between them and other caps with equal specs in blind tests. Don't pay the huge premium for them.

Use Nichicon PW, Panasonic FC, or UCC LXZ series. Other options are Nichicon HD, Panasonic FM/FR, or UCC KZE.

mockingbird wrote:

Audio-class caps don't make one bit of difference, and so-called enthusiasts can't differentiate between them and other caps with equal specs in blind tests. Don't pay the huge premium for them.

Use Nichicon PW, Panasonic FC, or UCC LXZ series. Other options are Nichicon HD, Panasonic FM/FR, or UCC KZE.

This is partially correct, but not the sort of ambiguous comment that should be made when being stated for someone not in the know.

Those Audio-grade ELECTROLYTICS wont necessarily make a difference you hear because there are just too many variables to consider. I would second the Panasonic FC or FM if it will fit. Afterwards, I can suggest soldering a tiny Mylar or polystyrene film cap across the leads (on the solder side of the board) of the two main output caps. Polypropylene is the usual rule-of-thumb, but they are physically bigger, and this project is going to get most of its gain simply from the refresh.