Unfortunately, I have never used the Thrustmaster wheel you mention, but determining if it is worth it depends on how much it will cost you. You didn't mention how much it will cost. About how much can you get one for? Will it be new or used?

There are many of those used racing wheel/pedal combo controllers out there for sale since they usually take up so much space I think....I know where I am, I see at least one in every thrift store I visit and there are a ton on online classifieds.

I have a MOMO Logitech Force feedback wheel in near mint condition and picked it up for $10 at a local thrift store.

I recommend just looking for a nice used one that you have read or seen a good review about. I can say the momo logitech one I have is great on Colin McCrae rally and DIRT...I have not experienced a dead zone on those games but I have not tried it with any other games.

Anyways I hope someone here can provide more direct insight specifically on the Thrustmaster.

All of Thrustmaster's "low-end" stuff nowadays comes with 1 year warranties, so the build quality is probably a lot better on that particular wheel than you might imagine for the price, though my only actual experience with Thrustmaster's products is with their HOTAS T.Flight X joystick + throttle combo, which is very decent for a $50 joystick, certainly better than any other joysticks I had used up to now, a couple of which cost MORE than $50. :B

Let me suggest to get a Logitech G27 right away or do at least what retrofanatic said.
The G27 is a good wheel, if you're like me and start buying low to middle end stuff only to end up with the G27 you're only throwing away money.
I have now a Fanatec Porsche GT3 v2 by the way but part of me wished I bought a G27 instead, I had a Logitech DFGT earlier but that one slowly commited suicide because of its insane autocalibration routine (the wheel slams itself to destruction).

For arcade games I prefer my Logitech Dual Action though, I play everything with it from Racedriver GRID and NFS: SHIFT to Trackmania.
If you use RC style controls like me, I'm right handed so I can only steer with my right thumb and use left for throttle/brake and shift gears with the shoulder buttons.
This is also the only gamepad I know of that has square axis limits, which is a real advantage in racing so even if you push the sticks diagonally you don't have to worry about having maximum deflection which I find a pain with Xbox360 or most other gamepads with round axis limits.
The Dual Action has one snag though, after a while the shoulderbuttons can jam a bit, I usually solve it by taking it apart and rub the buttons and plastic housing with a tissue soaked in silicon spay, once that's done it goes smooth for a very long while.

Well, if I could afford a G27 we wouldn't be having this conversation 🤣

Yasashii wrote:

Well, if I could afford a G27 we wouldn't be having this conversation 🤣

Then get a good gamepad instead or a desent 2nd hand wheel and save for it in the mean time, I might be wrong about the Ferrari GT experience but I had a Ferrari 3 in 1 experience once and it didn't last 4 weeks.
By the way about the large deadzone you had with the previous wheel, did you test that on a game or what?
Because if it was a cheap wheel with a worn potmeter the steering would be erratic around the center, deadzones are needed to overcome that erratic steering and is mostly done by the game itself or the software that comes with the wheel, still it could be play between the wheel and the pot but that would be really bad production quality.
I know the first Gran Turismo game had huge deadzones programmed for the analog sticks (40%-50%).
More expensive wheels use spokewheels with lightsensors, same as old mice or a halsensor in case of the T500.