Reply 40 of 49, by gdjacobs
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I suspect capacitance will be a smidge less due to reduction in separation between some of the layers, but it's not indented severely, so I suspect it's safe.
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
I suspect capacitance will be a smidge less due to reduction in separation between some of the layers, but it's not indented severely, so I suspect it's safe.
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
wrote:I have a question about solid capacitors. […]
I have a question about solid capacitors.
I'm replacing a couple of caps on this Radeon 8500 LE (it got quite a beating as the guy who sold it had it just rattling about in a box with a bunch of other cards) and one of them seems to have an inward dent in them:
Are these types of caps still able to work or should I replace it? If so, I assume its 47uF 6V? What does the 17 stand for?
It's not a solid capacitor, it's a standard non-solid electrolyte capacitor. 47uF 6V. 17 is some kind of manufacturing traceability code or some sort of description of cap series.
I would not worry about a slight dent, but that looks like it's been a pretty sharp object, is the aluminium case punctured?
Also, if you did not notice, I'd be slightly more worried about the coil L7, it's missing a part of it's top. I won't try to guess if that's OK or not.
Thanks for the info. The dent is slightly bigger than it appears in the picture, however it's not punctured. Guess I'll have to give the card a test to find out if it works (after I replace the other cap that has basically been yanked out half-way)
The coil seems to be okay and only the plastic bit is broken off.
My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4
wrote:The coil seems to be okay and only the plastic bit is broken off.
Except it's not plastic, it's the magnetic core material made of ferrite.
I see. Sorry If I'm going off topic too much with my n00b questions, but what sort of resistors are these? I want to order some and don't even know what to look for.
Googling the card it shows the broken ones here have "3R3" and "100" written on them. Do these types have a specific name so I can find the type that fits?
My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4
SMD resistor packages (and sizes) are standardized. You just purchase the resistance and package type you want from Vishay, etc.
http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/data/re … md_resistor.php
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder
Okay, dumb me, I was actually asking about inductors... (the ones with the broken tops in the pictures)
My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4
wrote:Okay, dumb me, I was actually asking about inductors... (the ones with the broken tops in the pictures)
I don't know the name for that particular inductor package type, but do try to search for suitable package type from manufacturers such as Coilcraft, Murata, Vishay. Or retailers such as Farnell, Digikey.
But it is impossible to know other ratings of the inductor, on the part it only reads the inductance (3R3 means 3.3 uH for example).
You still are missing things such as DC resistance, saturation current and RMS current.
Edit: Also, is that big thru-hole electrolytic cap near 100uH inductor L7 bulging, or does light just play tricks?
wrote:I don't know the name for that particular inductor package type, but do try to search for suitable package type from manufacture […]
wrote:Okay, dumb me, I was actually asking about inductors... (the ones with the broken tops in the pictures)
I don't know the name for that particular inductor package type, but do try to search for suitable package type from manufacturers such as Coilcraft, Murata, Vishay. Or retailers such as Farnell, Digikey.
But it is impossible to know other ratings of the inductor, on the part it only reads the inductance (3R3 means 3.3 uH for example).
You still are missing things such as DC resistance, saturation current and RMS current.Edit: Also, is that big thru-hole electrolytic cap near 100uH inductor L7 bulging, or does light just play tricks?
Must be the camera as none of the caps are bulged.
I'll still be picking up some caps from a store near where I live, I guess it would be a good idea to ask around there.
My builds!
The FireStarter 2.0 - The wooden K5
The Underdog - The budget K6
The Voodoo powerhouse - The power-hungry K7
The troll PC - The Socket 423 Pentium 4
wrote:I don't know the name for that particular inductor package type, but do try to search for suitable package type from manufacture […]
wrote:Okay, dumb me, I was actually asking about inductors... (the ones with the broken tops in the pictures)
I don't know the name for that particular inductor package type, but do try to search for suitable package type from manufacturers such as Coilcraft, Murata, Vishay. Or retailers such as Farnell, Digikey.
But it is impossible to know other ratings of the inductor, on the part it only reads the inductance (3R3 means 3.3 uH for example).
You still are missing things such as DC resistance, saturation current and RMS current.Edit: Also, is that big thru-hole electrolytic cap near 100uH inductor L7 bulging, or does light just play tricks?
I would expect similar ratings given the package constraints. Geometry, core material, and coil alloy should all be very similar.
All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder