3d art. did i mention this already? 😖

Cool. What software do you use?

leileilol wrote:

3d art. did i mention this already? 😖

do you frequent the Polycount forums?

Malik wrote:

Currently toying around with my unused satellite dish, focusing on another satellite to see some FTA (Free to Air) channels.

Do you have to adjust multiple times a year?

I recently got a new webcam and started playing with it, along with my clay, this is the most recent result of that. i've also been playing with GIMP a bit as well, and as an added bonus, here's a pic of my headphones.

RetroGamingNovice wrote:

... pics ...

I really like your first photo. It reminds me of Ganesha. Nice work!

(The background reminds me of a band I like from about 10 years ago; Maldroid.)

Heck No! (I'll Never Listen To Techno)

He Said, She Said

((Don't let the robots win...))

I recently expanded my clay color palette, and got a decent camera before that, so here's some of my latest work of the same type as my post above.

Can't believe this tread was last time posted to in late 2017..
- Doesn't anybody like to keep this thead alive (via new posts or making it a sticky) ?

It would be very interesting to learn about other people's hobbies! 😀

I'll bite.

Photography has always been a hobby for me. Although I drop it and come back to it too often. Too many cameras to list, but I have medium format film, 35mm SLRs, and new mirrorless digicams. I like taking portraits, architectural shots, landscapes, and sometimes "street" shots when I'm in a big city.

Lately I've been digging through my 35mm slides and "scanning" them again. I had scanned them before using 35mm film scanner, but I saved them as 8bit TIFFs. The shadow details were bad and Kodachrome colors looked off. Plus the green channel had some streaks. I tried the old film scanner again recently an was unimpressed with the output.

Anyway, I'm using this contraption to "scan" my photos. It's an Olympus mirrorless camera with a macro lens and a Nikon slide duplicator attachment. It works extremely well, but only with 35mm slides. I need a setup for negatives and medium format film.

After I "scan" the slides, I edit the RAW files using Rawtherapee. Coincidentally, I find doing this therapeutic. If the photo is good enough, I'll print it out to frame, put in a photo album, or give to friends and family.

I had planned to play with my cameras and photograph the captial fireworks display today, but decided not to this year.

Oh, hey, what a coincidence! I was just researching how to scan medium format negatives yesterday and saw this contraption:

https://petapixel.com/2016/08/24/built-medium … anner-shoe-box/

I don't have a dslr to do it with, but you could probably do something like this with your Olympus camera!

I just got into medium format (Lubitel 166B) and I'm going to pick up a super cheap Epson V300 tomorrow to do my first scans with. Officially it doesn't do 120 mm film but I've seen people do it with a homemade negative holder. It's kinda exciting, because it's the first roll I got developed from that camera and I feel like a total rookie.

Jet-skiing, and offroading:

^--1997 Hummer H1 6.5TD with tons of upgrades, and my 1998 Polaris SLX 3-cyl 2-stroke

Cars:

^-- 2019 Veloster N w/ performance package

^-- 2008 Mitsubishi Evo X GSR w/ Cobb Stage 2 + AMS Widemouth Downpipe, AMS turboback exhaust, ETS Intake + UICP, Swift Springs, etc.. (410awhp/398awtq)

3D Printing:

Quadcopter building:

Guns:

^--FN Five-seveN

^--FN SCAR 17S (SCAR-H) w/ Trijicon TA01B

and too much other stuff to list -- hiking, camping, fishing, hunting, etc.

Can any of you photography buffs recommend a quality camera model which lets you adjust the shutter speed (for stills) and/or frame rate (for video) beyond the narrow range of common presets? Say, 1/59.97 sec (as opposed to 1/60) to avoid those pesky dark bands when shooting a CRT TV which is scanning at that rate?

henryVK wrote:

Oh, hey, what a coincidence! I was just researching how to scan medium format negatives yesterday and saw this contraption: […]
Show full quote

Oh, hey, what a coincidence! I was just researching how to scan medium format negatives yesterday and saw this contraption:

https://petapixel.com/2016/08/24/built-medium … anner-shoe-box/

I don't have a dslr to do it with, but you could probably do something like this with your Olympus camera!

I just got into medium format (Lubitel 166B) and I'm going to pick up a super cheap Epson V300 tomorrow to do my first scans with. Officially it doesn't do 120 mm film but I've seen people do it with a homemade negative holder. It's kinda exciting, because it's the first roll I got developed from that camera and I feel like a total rookie.

I've considered doing something like that, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and there are too many things wrong with setups like that. You really need a the film and the camera to be on the same plane otherwise this will be too much distortion and correcting it in software can be tedious. Also, stray light can effect the image on a setup like that (it should be completely covered.) And using a flash can yield some funky colors. Very annoying is that flash sync limits exposure times. Using fluorescent and LEDs lights are out of the question as you will get 50/60hz banding that is impossible to completely avoid.

More on color: Since I mostly use positive film, I compared my slide scans using proper Minolta (fluorescent) and Nikon (LED) slide scanners. Neither captured the color properly when I compared it to the projecting it using a Kodak slide projector. The worst part is it was impossible to correct in software. You really need sunlight or something really close to it to capture the all of color data from the film.

A flatbed scanner like the Epson would be fun to play with, but they are expensive! I'd really like to try wet mounting film. I've read people get great results that way. But right now I would be content with a Nikon ES-1 type tube for medium format "scanning."

professional shitposting

VileRancour wrote:

Can any of you photography buffs recommend a quality camera model which lets you adjust the shutter speed (for stills) and/or frame rate (for video) beyond the narrow range of common presets? Say, 1/59.97 sec (as opposed to 1/60) to avoid those pesky dark bands when shooting a CRT TV which is scanning at that rate?

Wouldn't that require phase sync as well as frequency?

VileRancour wrote:

Can any of you photography buffs recommend a quality camera model which lets you adjust the shutter speed (for stills) and/or frame rate (for video) beyond the narrow range of common presets? Say, 1/59.97 sec (as opposed to 1/60) to avoid those pesky dark bands when shooting a CRT TV which is scanning at that rate?

I have a fairly recent Nikon DSLR - from what I understand and verified from experience, the trick to avoiding dark bands while making videos of a live CRT is this:

- Use the "flicker reduction" setting which will sync the camera shutter to the frequency of the flicker coming from the CRT.
- Choose the correct video mode on the camera: if you are shooting a 60hz CRT, shoot at 30fps or 60fps. Any other mode might introduce some visible flickering (for example 24fps and 25fps).
- Put the camera in manual mode and adjust the shutter speed to a multiple of the CRT refresh rate. i.e. if your CRT is 60hz, shoot with a 1/30s shutter speed, 1/60s or 1/120s. I honestly don't think 1/59.97s as opposed to 1/60s would make a visible difference.

I assume that any decent DSLR should give you these options nowadays.

Kudos on the 3D printing and the H1!

MMaximus wrote:

I have a fairly recent Nikon DSLR - from what I understand and verified from experience, the trick to avoiding dark bands while […]
Show full quote

I have a fairly recent Nikon DSLR - from what I understand and verified from experience, the trick to avoiding dark bands while making videos of a live CRT is this:

- Use the "flicker reduction" setting which will sync the camera shutter to the frequency of the flicker coming from the CRT.
- Choose the correct video mode on the camera: if you are shooting a 60hz CRT, shoot at 30fps or 60fps. Any other mode might introduce some visible flickering (for example 24fps and 25fps).
- Put the camera in manual mode and adjust the shutter speed to a multiple of the CRT refresh rate. i.e. if your CRT is 60hz, shoot with a 1/30s shutter speed, 1/60s or 1/120s. I honestly don't think 1/59.97s as opposed to 1/60s would make a visible difference.

I assume that any decent DSLR should give you these options nowadays.

Mine is a Canon EOS 700D - I don't think it has "flicker reduction" or an equivalent setting (as far as I can tell), but then it isn't a very recent camera either.

True, if the CRT is scanning at 59.97Hz and you're shooting it at a wildly inappropriate rate (24fps or 25fps), you'll get very flickery and prominent dark bands that jump all over the place. But shooting 59.97Hz at 60fps (or an integer divisor) still makes for very visible artifacts, unfortunately... the difference may seem tiny, but that only means that the dark bands/areas move around more slowly. Example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tG7tEBwJmY (esp. 1:06 through 1:26); I was shooting that at 30fps, or perhaps 20.

Same goes for stills - see the second photo from the top here: https://int10h.org/blog/2018/06/taking-decent … -crt-tv-screen/. The dark band is just above the "calibrate monitor" line; it's barely visible, but still there (I took that photo at 1/20s; at 1/30s or 1/60s it would have been more prominent). The rest of that post has more details, but I don't think it's possible to eliminate those dark bands without matching the CRT's scan rate much more accurately.

Kendo

Boardgaming

Pinball

with a side of Eurorack music, electronics, mountainbiking, gardening, raising chickens and kids...

Difficult for me to imagine two hobbies as different as kendo and magic the gathering 😁

Iris030380 wrote:

Difficult for me to imagine two hobbies as different as kendo and magic the gathering 😁

well that game in the pic is Lord of the Rings (its a solo or co-op game, not head to head 😀 ) I dont like magic, the buy in is insane.