What CPU are you using? It might just be too fast for the software you're running.
I wouldn't recommend an original SB or SB Pro in any machine faster than 486DX2-66.
Try running with the turbo disabled if your machine has a turbo switch. Or try to disable caches in your BIOS to slow the machine down, and see if that helps.

Scali wrote:

What CPU are you using? It might just be too fast for the software you're running.
I wouldn't recommend an original SB or SB Pro in any machine faster than 486DX2-66.
Try running with the turbo disabled if your machine has a turbo switch. Or try to disable caches in your BIOS to slow the machine down, and see if that helps.

I run SX-25. I don't have a Turbo button at all because I don't have a case. AFAIK skipping the turbo button altogether means Tubo mode is always off, I'll double check that with the "Ultimate 486 Benchmark" here on Vogons and try disabling caches. Thanks for the tips!

Did some more testing.

2.1) Disabling CPU caches didn't help
2.2) The computer indeed is running in Turbo Off mode I double checked the 3DBENCH score against the "Ultimate 486 Benchmark" here on Vogons
2.3) The sound test program works fine when I install my Sound Blaster Pro
2.4) The Adventures of Willy Beamish freeze during the first screen when the frog jumps on the table
2.5) Frog scene works fine with my Sound Blaster Pro card

Looks like my SB 2.0 is busted? Recap maybe?

Have you tried cleaning it? I have a CT1600 that was not getting detected but after a good clean it was fine... and it was not dirty to begin with! give it a shot

keropi wrote:

Have you tried cleaning it? I have a CT1600 that was not getting detected but after a good clean it was fine... and it was not dirty to begin with! give it a shot

Thanks!

Mine doesn't look dirty either. Just a little dust near the volume wheel. I did a quick search on Youtube and discovered a whole new uncharted universe of PCB cleaning. To the research board!

For starters clean only the ISA contacts on the card.

Also try cleaning the jumper headers. I had a problem with an AWE32 not detecting and cleaning the headers fixed the problem for me.

keropi wrote:

Have you tried cleaning it? I have a CT1600 that was not getting detected but after a good clean it was fine... and it was not dirty to begin with! give it a shot

FuzzyLogic wrote:

Also try cleaning the jumper headers. I had a problem with an AWE32 not detecting and cleaning the headers fixed the problem for me.

kixs wrote:

For starters clean only the ISA contacts on the card.

The journey continues. Thanks to contributing keropi, FuzzyLogic and kixs! Unfortunately, the issue persists. The test program from the "deluxe 2.0 driver set" still detects DMA at 220h, but gives error 0108 when trying to detect IRQ and Willy Beamish still freezes the computer and the regular set of drivers fails to detect even 220h.

3.1) I bought a set of Deoxit D100L cleaner, varnish and cleaning tools.
3.2) Cleaned contacts and jumper headers with cleaner and left it to sit for a night.
3.3) Wiped blackened oxidization with provided wipes in the morning.
3.4) Covered card's ISA contacts with varnish as recommended on the package and left to sit for an hour.
3.5) Tested the card with no positive results - test program crashes with error 0108, Willy Beamish Freezes at the same spot.
3.6) Tested the card with the same driver on a Pentium machine with caches disabled (different graphics card, built-in hard drive controller) with the same negative result.
3.7) Tried to install http://www.vogonsdrivers.com/getfile.php?file … menustate=42,35 pack again and it couldn't detect the card at all as it did before.

Images of the cleaner and contacts here if anyone interested: http://imgur.com/a/PUro0

I'll attempt to find a service with an ultrasonic cleaner otherwise, I'm out of options.

Hmmmm at this point I just think some ic on the card is just damaged... Maybe it would worth to test the 74series ICs if you can, but other that that better get another sound card IMHO

keropi wrote:

Hmmmm at this point I just think some ic on the card is just damaged... Maybe it would worth to test the 74series ICs if you can, but other that that better get another sound card IMHO

Sad to hear this from an author of an MPU-401 card I love and use 🙁 as you obviously know your way around electronics. I really love the idea of preserving the legacy of computer sound. I also own a Vibra an AWE64, and a Pro all of which work fine.

I'll see what I can do. Finding a decent repair service here in Sydney is hard because people prefer to trash everything they lose interest in and all repair services are indecently expensive. I'll start by looking for an ultrasonic cleaner place, replace jumpers with new and then will do some research about 74s ICs. I don't know much about electronics, but I know basics, how to solder and some physics so who knows - maybe I'll restore it to working order within the next couple months and maybe just maybe will attempt a CMS thing, despite it being expensive and sounding like crap 😀.

74series ICs are common logic ones, like the 74LS245s on the card. If you can desolder them a cheap programmer like TL866CS can test them. Maybe you are lucky and one of them is busted , replacements are plentiful and cheap. But there is also a possibility something else is damaged, like a Creative custom IC, in that case it's game over.
You should also look for broken traces, damaged resistors or shorting diodes/capacitors, could just be one of these.
The fun begins 🤣 🤣 🤣

keropi wrote:

74series ICs are common logic ones, like the 74LS245s on the card. If you can desolder them a cheap programmer like TL866CS can test them. Maybe you are lucky and one of them is busted , replacements are plentiful and cheap. But there is also a possibility something else is damaged, like a Creative custom IC, in that case it's game over.
You should also look for broken traces, damaged resistors or shorting diodes/capacitors, could just be one of these.
The fun begins 🤣 🤣 🤣

An update

1.1 My card is working in all games I tried so far with no glitches or freezes: MECHWAR, CIV, WINGCOM, WAXWORKS, WOLF3D, TITUS, WILLYB.
1.2. Willy Beamish no longer freezes (previously it froze when I had this sound blaster card inserted).
1.3. BUT the card is still not recognized by any of the drivers in the vogons drivers library!

I did a bunch of things:

2.1 I removed the Yamaha chip and cleaned the contacts with Deoxit D100L cleaner. To anyone doing this - be careful! I bent the legs badly but was able to straighten them successfully (whew!)
2.2 I put the card in a different motherboard - a micro AT 386 board from 1993
2.3 Removed all traces of vogonsdrivers drivers from the system and just added the SETBLASTER string into autoexec.bat
2.4 I used a -5V modded AT to ATX adapter with a 2009 PSU for these test and for the life of me I can't remember what I used previously, but I think it was a real AT PSU from mid 90s with a proper -5V rail

I don't know what to think. Looks like either different versions of drivers for CT1350B exist or this card is damaged in a very weird way.

A status update:

I finally found time to go and buy all the necessary cleaning (and drying) supplies to wash the card because I could not find anyone who does ultrasonic cleaning - probably not necessary anyway, because the card doesn't have balled solder connections or SMDs.

The card still works in games but I still can't install drivers and still get either "card not found on 220" or "error 108" depending on a version of a driver. I performed a thorough PCB wash up in addition to previously mentioned contacts cleaning with no positive or negative result.

Some pics:

Next steps:

1. I found Sound Blaster development pdf and I'm going to push some bytes back and forth in Microsoft Assembly to try to identify the exact spot where the card fails.
2. If ^ proves to be unenlightening I'm ordering the tester keropi mentioned above and will try to desolder the ICs to test them. I have some desoldering wick, but I'm also pondering buying a desoldering station..

UPD: the heater in the image has a fan built in, so that is the fan blowing hot air on the card on one of the images.

maybe a longshot but try these drivers: http://www.mediafire.com/file/l7j194fdfkegj4b/SB2-NEW.ZIP

keropi wrote:

maybe a longshot but try these drivers: http://www.mediafire.com/file/l7j194fdfkegj4b/SB2-NEW.ZIP

Thanks! Unfortunately it didn't work. I used the diagnose.exe program from your archive and the result was it could not detect the card either. I never saw this program before, probably installs with the rest of the files when you do setup.

One interesting note: I found this video today and the driver the guy uses is totally different from any of the drives I saw so far. Updates have no installers no test and no diag programs. I asked uploader in the comments if he could rip the files off of the disks. His driver installer looks totally different and says V1.61 in the top bar. Unfortunately he has a REV3 card and mine has no rev, but still would be nice to have another driver for vogonsdrivers collection even if it doesn't work for me.

Your DMACTL jumper is obviously set to the wrong position in your photos, it should be the two RIGHT pins shorted.

Go HERE: http://nerdlypleasures.blogspot.co.il/2013/06 … ms-upgrade.html
Search for: DMACTL

I don't think 'drivers' are the answer here. These cards don't really use drivers. All the code for interfacing with the SB is usually included in the application itself (or in custom driver files that come with the application).
If you set the jumpers correctly, the card either works, or it doesn't.

James-F wrote:

Your DMACTL jumper is obviously set to the wrong position in your photos, it should be the two RIGHT pins shorted.

Good catch! My money is on this one.

Good catch indeed James-F