Reply 100 of 149, by root42
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🤣! Yeah, hold on to it for a while. I will get stuff to test with as well... plus a little extra surprise...
I also tested with the SwinSID in the socket: continuity is there... 😒
🤣! Yeah, hold on to it for a while. I will get stuff to test with as well... plus a little extra surprise...
I also tested with the SwinSID in the socket: continuity is there... 😒
First prototype is going to be printed soon. I probably have some measurements off -- this is my first OpenSCAD model... I used to do lots of stuff in Blender, but I think OpenSCAD is well suited for this task. So fingers crossed... I will add a bit more support to the ears and latch probably. But this is going to help in measuring the exact sizes and distances, for the case that I took some wrong measurements.
The circular hole looks a bit off. It should be in roughly the same vertical position as the DA15 cutout.
(Well, that other vertical, since your model is rotated.)
Maybe try to print it out on paper before you fire up the 3d printer.
Yeah, Some measurements are probably off. But my db15 socket is also a bit higher than usual I think. I would use a different one next time.
But I am happy how it turned out. It’s my first OpenSCAD Model after all. Will put the source online once the model is correct.
My Card is working now, out of the Box.
i put your SwinSID on it and it works! 😀
EDIT:
Ok Battle Tech works,
Redstorm Rising is disorted and sounds weird.
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
Fantastic! I think I got the fluke SwinSID. However, replacement is on its way. Plus a real SID is also on its way, so soon I can make a comparison!
The 3D printed bracket ALMOST fits. I made a few mistakes by not considering the thickness of the PCB, and the holes for the DB15 are to small, but my design is surprisingly close to being correct 😉
So far:
Ultima 6 works
Battletech works
Red Storm Rising - Sounds wrong / Timing off ? CPU Speed ?
Bad Blood - Sounds wrong / Timing off ? CPU Speed ?
F-19 - No Music at all
Wind Walker - No Music at all
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
Ok Speedfix applied, its already needed on 486DX4 😀
Now everything works.
For next Revision, please add for each 74 a 100nf Capacitor.
One of my 7474 is getting unusual warm.. after placing a Capacitor its fine.
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
matze79 wrote on 2020-06-22, 11:05:Ok Speedfix applied, its already needed on 486DX4 :-) […]
Ok Speedfix applied, its already needed on 486DX4 😀
Now everything works.
For next Revision, please add for each 74 a 100nf Capacitor.
One of my 7474 is getting unusual warm.. after placing a Capacitor its fine.
That is not going to happen I think. Benedikt wants to keep this one true to the original. But we can fork this project. I would suggest to move the DB15 connector to the bottom of the board. This way the DB15 Keystone bracket will fit out of the box, and we only have to drill one round hole for the RCA connector. I would also suggest switching that to a 3.5mm audio jack, for sake of simplicity... Then we can also add the decoupling capacitors. So there could be the "original" Renovation and the modified one. I tried moving the DB15 in Kicad, but my Kicad-fu is weak. I need to take some lessons in Kicad at some point...
0805 capacitors easily hide under the Socket..
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
Ah did you resolder the SwinSID MCU ?
The MCU on mine had bad contact.. if i press with finger on it it disorts. its also soldered crooked 😁
i just resoldered it, now its fine
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
matze79 wrote on 2020-06-22, 11:20:0805 capacitors easily hide under the Socket..
That is indeed a good idea! However, having all those SMD components on the PCB destroys the "flair" already. 😀 Even if others can't see them, I KNOW THEY ARE THERE!
matze79 wrote on 2020-06-22, 11:24:Ah did you resolder the SwinSID MCU ?
The MCU on mine had bad contact.. if i press with finger on it it disorts.
i just resoldered it, now its fine
Nope, didn't try that yet. Since the seller sent a replacement already, I rather leave it as is, for him to repair it. I thought it might be that problem. The SwinSID doesn't look as nice as other homebrew products I have, including my own solder jobs. 😉
Would you be willing to share your OpenSCAD file for the backplate?
NautilusComputer wrote on 2020-06-22, 13:03:Would you be willing to share your OpenSCAD file for the backplate?
Yes, I will adjust it, print another and if it fits, I will for sure share STL and OpenSCAD source.
Only bracket missing for now.
Some thing is weird.. with Real SID its Stuck at Boot.
SID is 100% working, tested in C64 and getting 12V Power from Card. i Suspect Power Filtering.
SwinSID works fine.
EDIT: issue is solved by adding 100nf and 10uf to 12V VCC rail.
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
matze79 wrote on 2020-06-22, 13:53:Some thing is weird.. with Real SID its Stuck at Boot. SID is 100% working, tested in C64 and getting 12V Power from Card. i Su […]
Some thing is weird.. with Real SID its Stuck at Boot.
SID is 100% working, tested in C64 and getting 12V Power from Card. i Suspect Power Filtering.
SwinSID works fine.EDIT: issue is solved by adding 100nf and 10uf to 12V VCC rail.
Do you mean the axial 10µF capacitor or did you add another one in parallel?
At least we have the 0603 footprint for a 100nF bypass capacitor on the 12V line.
matze79 wrote on 2020-06-22, 11:05:Ok Speedfix applied, its already needed on 486DX4 :-) […]
Ok Speedfix applied, its already needed on 486DX4 😀
Now everything works.
For next Revision, please add for each 74 a 100nf Capacitor.
One of my 7474 is getting unusual warm.. after placing a Capacitor its fine.
To be honest, I don't really plan to touch the design ever again, because my two PCBs are technically already more than I need.
I just wanted to be able to build an STM32 version and a SID versi0n.
If you need a bypass capacitor and want a board that still looks professional, you can use one of those DIP sockets with integrated capacitor.
i just hocked them up for testing on the 12V Line, and it worked afterwards.
So there now 2 10uf.
i think the 100nf alone will suffice 😀
Yeah of course but sockets with integrated capacitors are three times the price 😀
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board
root42 send me stl file, i printed it, it almost fits perfect.
Little bit Adjustment and its fine!
Composite ~1mm up, Gameport 1-2 mm down ~
https://www.retrokits.de - blog, retro projects, hdd clicker, diy soundcards etc
https://www.retroianer.de - german retro computer board