The easiest solution would be to add one of your ES1868 cards to that system. As long as you configure both cards to use different resources, you won't have any problems.

You can use the ESS card for MPU-401 duties and the SB16 for the rest, if you so prefer. Additionally, some older "talkie" adventure games can benefit from the SBPro low-pass filter on the ESS card, if you like that kind of sound (I do).

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2023-09-14, 10:28:

The easiest solution would be to add one of your ES1868 cards to that system. As long as you configure both cards to use different resources, you won't have any problems.

You can use the ESS card for MPU-401 duties and the SB16 for the rest, if you so prefer. Additionally, some older "talkie" adventure games can benefit from the SBPro low-pass filter on the ESS card, if you like that kind of sound (I do).

Thank you for your confirmation.
I reviewed the cards i already have and that i could use along the SB16 and this ESS one ticked most of the boxes.
I will definitely try the digital sound on it as well ! (This card is part of a lot i got this summer and i had no time since then to test anything)

I'm a bit confused as to the height requirements. You mention you have a SB16 CT2290 , which is a pretty big card, but an AWE64 won't fit? The AWE64 should be the same height as an SB16 CT2290.

Adding an ESS-based card would probably be fine.

Another option would be getting something like a Yamaha Audician 32 card, since they are quite compact, offer clean sound output, SB Pro compatibility, bug-free MIDI support, and genuine OPL.

Shponglefan wrote on 2023-09-14, 15:54:

I'm a bit confused as to the height requirements. You mention you have a SB16 CT2290 , which is a pretty big card, but an AWE64 won't fit? The AWE64 should be the same height as an SB16 CT2290.

It's more the height above the ISA bracket that causes my problem.
It's a quite thin and compact desktop case :

Once closed, if the card is too tall, then it can touch the case top panel... and since i'm putting a CRT over it, the weight is applied on the card PCB.

Shponglefan wrote on 2023-09-14, 15:54:

Another option would be getting something like a Yamaha Audician 32 card, since they are quite compact, offer clean sound output, SB Pro compatibility, bug-free MIDI support, and genuine OPL.

Yes, i had the opportunity to buy one a few weeks ago... but i passed. (Even if it was not expensive, ~20€, i had no specific use for it)

acl wrote on 2023-09-14, 19:54:

Shponglefan wrote on 2023-09-14, 15:54:

I'm a bit confused as to the height requirements. You mention you have a SB16 CT2290 , which is a pretty big card, but an AWE64 won't fit? The AWE64 should be the same height as an SB16 CT2290.

It's more the height above the ISA bracket that causes my problem.
It's a quite thin and compact desktop case :

Ah, understood. Yeah, the AWE64 has an extra 5mm of height to the PCB and I guess in your case that makes all the difference.

Yes, i had the opportunity to buy one a few weeks ago... but i passed. (Even if it was not expensive, ~20€, i had no specific use for it)

They're good cards. They can even be modded to replicate the original SB Pro low-pass filtering.

als100 non-plus with a yamaha or unlicensed clone is probably what you want...could replace the sb16 entirely if you find a quiet one. they're not too hard to find. this one is up for sale right now for $25 buy it now:

i run an ess688 with a yamaha opl3 which is similar to the als100 (except no sb16 compatibility) and very quiet; however, the mpu401 is emulated (tsr) so i don't know if you'd want to deal with that.

an aztech azt2320 is another option with an integrated yamaha opl3 and real mpu401. they are cheap, plentiful and excellent. the cut down revisions are the triangle shaped cards.

stanwebber wrote on 2023-09-15, 07:54:

als100 non-plus with a yamaha or unlicensed clone is probably what you want...could replace the sb16 entirely if you find a quie […]
Show full quote

als100 non-plus with a yamaha or unlicensed clone is probably what you want...could replace the sb16 entirely if you find a quiet one. they're not too hard to find. this one is up for sale right now for $25 buy it now:
s-l1600.jpg
i run an ess688 with a yamaha opl3 which is similar to the als100 (except no sb16 compatibility) and very quiet; however, the mpu401 is emulated (tsr) so i don't know if you'd want to deal with that.

an aztech azt2320 is another option with an integrated yamaha opl3 and real mpu401. they are cheap, plentiful and excellent. the cut down revisions are the triangle shaped cards.

I considered this card too after reading about it here (https://www.dosdays.co.uk/topics/Manufacturer … avancelogic.php)
But i don't currently have one (while i already have some ES1868 (at least 3 different models)). I will try the cards i have first... i already have too much things on storage 😁)
I have an ALS120 (which also provides a bug-free MPU-401 interface... but is worse than ALS100)

I'm also thinking about swapping the case and motherboard for a larger case and ATX Socket 7 board.
I got new ones after assembling this system.
That way i could use an AWE64 for 16bit sound and bugfree midi + Another OPL3 card (bugfree midi too). This would give me better flexibility.

I'd also recommend an ESS. I adore the ESS in my machine, but more importantly in this case, it works flawlessly with midi. The 1868 is an excellent choice, I have a 1888 which is only slightly different.

midicollector wrote on 2023-09-16, 20:27:

I'd also recommend an ESS. I adore the ESS in my machine, but more importantly in this case, it works flawlessly with midi. The 1868 is an excellent choice, I have a 1888 which is only slightly different.

Thanks !
I will test this setup and update the post after testing... soon i hope. Not much free time lately

I ultimately made the choice of only keeping the ES1868.
It does not support 16 bit sound like SB16/AWE32/AWE64. But it's the only drawback.
The FM synthesis sounds really close to a real OPL3 (at least for me playing Dune).

This card ticks all the boxes otherwise. Compact, not trouble with MPU-401 (no hanging notes, no system slowdowns). I'm happy with it for the moment.

I understand why this card is getting some love.

acl wrote on 2023-10-08, 14:00:

I ultimately made the choice of only keeping the ES1868.
It does not support 16 bit sound like SB16/AWE32/AWE64. But it's the only drawback.

You can use its native AudioDrive mode for 16-bit sound in games which support that, like Heroes of Might and Magic 2 for example.

It's also possible to transplant AUDIODRV.DIG into other games which use the Miles Sound System, though not all games will work with it. I posted some instructions for that here.

Additionally, it might be fun to experiment with native/enhanced ESFM in games which support that. The results can be pretty interesting, if the implementation was handled well. More info here: ESFM details

Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2023-10-08, 14:07:

You can use its native AudioDrive mode for 16-bit sound in games which support that, like Heroes of Might and Magic 2 for exampl […]
Show full quote

acl wrote on 2023-10-08, 14:00:

I ultimately made the choice of only keeping the ES1868.
It does not support 16 bit sound like SB16/AWE32/AWE64. But it's the only drawback.

You can use its native AudioDrive mode for 16-bit sound in games which support that, like Heroes of Might and Magic 2 for example.

It's also possible to transplant AUDIODRV.DIG into other games which use the Miles Sound System, though not all games will work with it. I posted some instructions for that here.

Additionally, it might be fun to experiment with native/enhanced ESFM in games which support that. The results can be pretty interesting, if the implementation was handled well. More info here: ESFM details

Thanks !
I found a list of Miles Sound System games on vogonsdrivers. Not sure why it's hosted here since its not a driver
But I will give it a try if I want to play something in this list .

http://vogonsdrivers.com/getfile.php?fileid=30&menustate=0

I don't know what's happening with the output.
There is a jumper to disable the amplified output. But when it's "off" the sound is really crappy.
Muffled or filtered.
But with amplification I can't use headphones.
With amplification+ reduced volume in the mixer I'm picking a lot of noise.

The best I could do was to leave it amplified+ add a passive volume knob to turn the volume down for the headphones.

Do you know what could cause the muffled/filtered sound ?