That seems like there is a cracked solder somewhere inside where the line deflection part is, most probably at a physically large component since those will be most affected when some physical shock is experienced, especially one that is bad enough to crack the shell itself...

Damn, that would make sense i guess... Such a shame as it's a Sony Trinitron tube inside as well.

I did try to correct it with the graphics card but it doesn't have the ability to shrink the image only move it around.

I then took a look around the back **** DO NOT TRY THIS *****

Only thing i noticed was the neck board was a little slanted but thats just weight over time i think. I didn't see any obvious adjustment pots aside from the brightness pot. I could dig the chassis out and look at the solder joints but with no discharge tool handy i don't really want to go down that route. The seller luckily has another one and is going to try and send me that without it getting broken.

Fingers crossed, i guess... and off to the junk yard for this poor CRT. Such a shame. Unless of course anyone knows of any software which can adjust the image on screen?? Seems really crappy to throw a nice screen out as it does look great when it works.

You can unplug it while it is powered and that takes care of most of the charges in the capacitors and for extra safety you can wait a few hours or perhaps a day and then it is sure there won't be any dangerour charges left anywhere.

This problem is going to be on the mainboard and in the area around flyback. It is most probable some big film capacitor has one leg loose from the PCB.

Yeah it likely will be, which frustratingly i could fix in seconds here but i don't have anything to remove the cable which goes to the tube from the flyback. It's not worth risking it if i can't discharge it properly. I've messed with CRT's on arcade machines before and they are pretty unforgiving if you get something wrong haha!

The anode cable is the smallest concern, there is always a bleeder in monitors and any charge is gone moments after power off. And even if there was anything left, it just bites, anode voltages are not very high on small monitor tubes.
The only actually dangerous parts are the capacitors on power supply primary side (325V) and the main supply on secondary side (B+, 70...100V in monitors).
(arcade monitors count as TVs, with higher voltages and much less if any protections etc.)