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Reply 20 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Got a couple of those as well 😉 All good now hopefully - 775Dual-VSTA installing XP SP3 onto a very clicky Raptor with the AGP 3580 as GPU - first thing drivers - then 3dm2001SE and testing those pesky shaders

Reply 21 of 45, by acl

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I generally disassemble totally every GPU i get. Clean everything with alcohol. Replace thermal paste and pads.
This includes completely cleaning an lubricating the fan.

For quiet operation, it must be free of any dust (air flows more silently without dust)
And you can add a drop or two of WD40 in the axle pit. You need to gently peel off the sticker to access the axle.
In the worst cases, i found metal fillings and rust inside. So after cleaning and WD40, the fan was almost as new.

The Serpent Rider wrote on 2022-07-27, 15:39:

Only hardcore, only Western Digital Raptor.

Raptor RAID0 FTW (I'm in love with these drives. I got 10 of them. Two sitting on my desk at his very moment, and i'm currently at work)

"Hello, my friend. Stay awhile and listen..."
My collection (not up to date)

Reply 23 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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To round off my 3850 cooler testing I have just ordered a RAIJINTEK Morpheus 8057. That should be interesting.

So in summary, aftermarket coolers to test are:

RAIJINTEK Morpheus 8057 - no fans
Arctic Cooling Accelero Twin Turbo Pro VGA cooler - no fans
Arctic Accelero L2 Plus (Seems to be stock available on https://xewl.co.uk/products/2090585000 for £14.40 not including shipping)
Akasa Vortexx Neo AK-VC03-BLUV VGA cooler (Stock available on eBay - £9.95)

I'm not going to be buying any more coolers! Waiting on a couple to arrive, so won't have a video on it until at least next weekend.

Reply 24 of 45, by PC Hoarder Patrol

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Many moons ago I replaced the cooler on my Club3D HD3850 - same as this one download/file.php?id=44174&mode=view which I found to be a bit whiney, with a Zalman VNF100 fanless heatpipe cooler which worked just fine

Reply 25 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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PC Hoarder Patrol wrote on 2022-07-29, 10:36:

Many moons ago I replaced the cooler on my Club3D HD3850 - same as this one download/file.php?id=44174&mode=view which I found to be a bit whiney, with a Zalman VNF100 fanless heatpipe cooler which worked just fine

Ah - I tried looking for one of those, and also a VF1000 - but came up short.. There is an MSI N9800GT zilent GeForce 9800GT on eBay I was looking at, thinking I could just get it for the cooler (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254848067612), but I think I have enough to be getting along with now 😉

Reply 26 of 45, by Imperious

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I used a Powercolor version of this card back in the day, still have it. It has the Zalman Cooler.

Make sure You put some cooling solution on the AGP bridge chip otherwise black screens and other crashes probably will eventuate.
The Powercolor, Club3d and probably others with the Zalman cooler ran higher GPU voltage and will overclock higher, but only with a heatsink on the bridge chip.
I got well over 800mhz out of mine, I seem to remember 891 but cannot verify it due to lost documents.

Atari 2600, TI994a, Vic20, c64, ZX Spectrum 128, Amstrad CPC464, Atari 65XE, Commodore Plus/4, Amiga 500
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Reply 27 of 45, by Repo Man11

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acl wrote on 2022-07-28, 15:14:
I generally disassemble totally every GPU i get. Clean everything with alcohol. Replace thermal paste and pads. This includes co […]
Show full quote

I generally disassemble totally every GPU i get. Clean everything with alcohol. Replace thermal paste and pads.
This includes completely cleaning an lubricating the fan.

For quiet operation, it must be free of any dust (air flows more silently without dust)
And you can add a drop or two of WD40 in the axle pit. You need to gently peel off the sticker to access the axle.
In the worst cases, i found metal fillings and rust inside. So after cleaning and WD40, the fan was almost as new.

The Serpent Rider wrote on 2022-07-27, 15:39:

Only hardcore, only Western Digital Raptor.

Raptor RAID0 FTW (I'm in love with these drives. I got 10 of them. Two sitting on my desk at his very moment, and i'm currently at work)

I would not recommend WD-40 in this application. It is a very light mineral oil - standard lubricating oil will work much better and, more importantly, much longer. WD40 was developed to displace water, not for long term lubrication. Here's what I use.

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Reply 28 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Afternoon all - little aftermarket cooler update here. All the bits have arrived!

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The copper plate is 125mm by 125mm and 2mm thick. The other thing is a 'nibbler' attachment for a drill to cut through it. That'll be my memory heatsink with some thermal pads underneath. I aim to cut it out in one part that covers all the ram, with holes corresponding to the now unused holes in the pcb that were previously being used by the stock cooler, and have it clipped on with some of those sprung push pins used for holding on passive heatsinks.

This proposed copper ram sink won't work with the Akasa cooler, as that has direct aluminium contact (with thermal pads in between) to the ram.

The Morpheus is just bonkers, but I've checked and it should fit!

Gonna be a while before I get results for all the combinations, but should be a fun - if slightly expensive - experiment!

Reply 29 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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The Serpent Rider wrote on 2022-07-27, 15:39:

I might try again with my Quantum Bigfoot drive.. but it is very VERY loud..

Only hardcore, only Western Digital Raptor.

Absolutely not a storage issue. I just finished testing that.

Having run 3dm01 to completion without BSOD on the 775Dual (before it's untimely death) with the WD Raptor and an SSD drive, I moved them over to my Athlon XP machine using the pata/sata adapter. I used exactly the same memory, SSD (first install), HDD (second install), XP install disk, AGP HD 3850 and Catalyst drivers as used on the 775Dual and guess what? It restarts on the Advanced Shader test.. This is with default VIA drivers from XP sp3, and then the same after installing the last available Hyperion Pro driver pack from VIA. Again this is both with the SSD and the Raptor.

Only thing I can think is, is that it's an issue with my XP 3200+. The bench ran through completely on the 775Dual's VIA PT880 Pro/Ultra Northbridge & VIA VT8237A Southbridge combo, but not on the Matsonic MS8177C with it's VIA KT600 NB & VT8237 SB and this CPU, but I'm sure it used to. Odd. It was the same deal when using it in my Asus A7N8X-X.

Any other ideas? I'm absolutely open to suggestions, and aware that this is hijacking this thread for something else. But it is sort of linked.. Ish.

Reply 30 of 45, by Imperious

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Try putting a heatsink on the AGP bridge chip, at least You can rule that out if it still happens afterwards.

Atari 2600, TI994a, Vic20, c64, ZX Spectrum 128, Amstrad CPC464, Atari 65XE, Commodore Plus/4, Amiga 500
PC's from XT 8088, 486, Pentium MMX, K6, Athlon, P3, P4, 775, to current Ryzen 5600x.

Reply 31 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Imperious wrote on 2022-08-03, 00:11:

Try putting a heatsink on the AGP bridge chip, at least You can rule that out if it still happens afterwards.

Could do, but in the now dead system it ran through without a hitch so i'm pretty sure the card is fine!
I've Just installed XP again but this time using an XP 1700+ instead of the 3200+.. and the advanced shader test runs for about5 seconds, then crashes out of 3dm01 - but at least it doesn't trip a restart. Hmm

Reply 32 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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OK.

The 1700+ goes through all the way through 3DM2001 now - i'm 3 for 3 - using different board drivers each time to test. The key was to switch out my ram for some which arrived today!

12030 points using whatever drivers are in the Snappy Driver Installer
11972 points using nf2 v1.16 drivers from the motherboard driver page
12024 points using nf2 v5.10 drivers from the Nvidia site

Now to swap the 3200+ back in and see if it completes, or does it have problems..?

Reply 33 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Madness. Switched back to the 3200+, changed the fsb in the bios up to 400 as its a AXDA3200DKV4E, into windows fine, ran 3DM2001 aaaaaaaaand.. rebooted at the Advanced Pixel Shader test. So I cleared the 5.10 nforce drivers and replaced them with the older ones from the Asus site and tried again.. same thing.

Something is wrong with my 3200+

Well it's stable enough to run Furmark, so if nothing else I can still use it to run hosting duties for the 3850 while I test different coolers on it, which is what this thread is about 😉

Reply 34 of 45, by acl

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Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-08-01, 00:48:

I would not recommend WD-40 in this application. It is a very light mineral oil - standard lubricating oil will work much better and, more importantly, much longer. WD40 was developed to displace water, not for long term lubrication. Here's what I use.

Thanks, i will look into that 👍 (But the one i see on Amazon is like 37 €/USD (inc. shipping)... probably a US only product)

But it made me realize that i also have Ballistol gun oil at hand. I will look at its properties. Not sure it fits the use.

"Hello, my friend. Stay awhile and listen..."
My collection (not up to date)

Reply 35 of 45, by Repo Man11

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acl wrote on 2022-08-04, 10:04:
Repo Man11 wrote on 2022-08-01, 00:48:

I would not recommend WD-40 in this application. It is a very light mineral oil - standard lubricating oil will work much better and, more importantly, much longer. WD40 was developed to displace water, not for long term lubrication. Here's what I use.

Thanks, i will look into that 👍 (But the one i see on Amazon is like 37 €/USD (inc. shipping)... probably a US only product)

But it made me realize that i also have Ballistol gun oil at hand. I will look at its properties. Not sure it fits the use.

I don't think there's anything special about the oil that comes in the Zoomspout bottle, it's just a good multi purpose oil in a convenient container and it doesn't cost too much here. I once refilled one with 5w30 full synthetic motor oil (because I had some left over) which was probably superior to what it originally contained. WD40 is great for many purposes, but it was never meant to be used for long term lubrication of things like bearings and chains.

"I'd rather be rich than stupid" - Jack Handey

Reply 36 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Afternoon all.

On topic update - I've now finished my rather shonky copper ram heatsink! Sure - it looks a bit janky, but it covers all the memory:

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Now I can get on with my cooler comparison.

Off topic update - getting a bit fed up with my Athlon XP setup and 3DM2001. I had another Barton core CPU arrive to try (XP 3000+) but again - much like the Barton 3200+ it conks out at the Advanced Shader test in 3DM2001. No problems with the Palomino core 1700+ which does the test just fine. This is the same on 2 motherboards - Asus A7N8X-X and the Matsonic MS8177C.
So I know it isn't the motherboard, ram, storage, PSU or the 3850 - which I spent all morning flashing different Bios's on with no difference btw - it randomly seems to be Barton core Athlon XP chips?! Any further suggestions? as i'm now considering buying another Socket A board out of having not much else to try..

All I want is the fastest Athlon XP setup - but it seems I can't get there!

Reply 37 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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I bit the bullet and have ordered an ABIT NF7 -S v2.0 that apparently works. Caps look good, and supposedly it's only issue is a dodgy network socket which I won't be needing anyway. If that doesn't work for me.. I'll.. be sad.

Reply 38 of 45, by RETROKOMODO

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Now officially perplexed. The ABIT board arrived today and I've just finished getting it all up to date, ran the advanced Pixel shader and.. instant restart. If I had enough hair left I'd be pulling it out.

Meanwhile ramsink video almost done. Just need to record the audio

Reply 39 of 45, by Whisky

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RETROKOMODO wrote on 2022-08-18, 20:29:

Now officially perplexed. The ABIT board arrived today and I've just finished getting it all up to date, ran the advanced Pixel shader and.. instant restart. If I had enough hair left I'd be pulling it out.

Meanwhile ramsink video almost done. Just need to record the audio

I have two NF7 and NF7-S and they have instant restart's in 3D Mark 01/03 but 05 run great. No meter what GPU 3850/X1950Pro/9700Pro I think its a software/driver issue.