Get the compatible wire clamp transferred to original (serves no magnetic function except to keep ferrite core halves together), if you can take apart flyback transformer due to crumbling glue, I use clear RTV silicone with success to prevent vibrating noise and I used same to secure any kinds of ferrite cores even tiny beads on the component leads so they don't sing. Remember to scrape away and remove "formerly yellow glue used to secure components that turned brown or black" as they become conductive!

Or layers of varnish with partial drying in between works well too, slow curing epoxy thinned some works as well (done that to fix a PC power supply as I don't want anything loose to potentially vibrate. I had to dip CRT deflection yokes in marine varnish to fix the noise as well. Takes 3 session dips with partial drying in between. Would speed up if had a drying oven. 😀

This clear RTV worked so well on TVs I repair as they had lot of ferrite beads singing so I fixed them when they are serviced for repairs.

Cheers,

There monitor is going into protection mode, I'm not sure from what though. Since HV is appearing during the brief startup then it is not likely the problem is in the transformer but who knows. It could be that the new capacitors have much lower ESR than the old ones (even when new) and the PSU section sees it as a short and goes into protection or perhaps one is inserted backwards (I have had such an effect from that).

Thanks for the info on the RTV silicone pentiumspeed. Will give that a shot if I end up putting the original FB back in.

Tiido, you could very well be right. I know when I order capacitors I always get the lowest ESR I can possibly get. This monitor was filled to the brim with Teapo caps (about 50+) and while only one had a puffed top, none of them had an outright failure, but they were all over the place with their values when I tested them.

Is there a particular voltage I need to check? I do have neck glow, but don't know the main voltage the protection circuit expects (B+??) if that is what is causing the issue as I would rather leave the new FB installed if that more than likely isn't the issue. I will also go through and check polarity on the caps just to rule that out as well.

If you don't get normal B+ (not sure how much it may be, in most of my monitors it is between 70...110V) then there's definitely something seen as a short by the protection circuit (probably the capacitor ESR related). If B+ is there then that transformer must be incompatible in some way...

I finally got a chance to solder in the original flyback on this monitor and it does produce a picture now. So the replacement flyback must not be 100 percent compatible I would assume.

If things work with original transformer the replacement is indeed not compatible in some way. I wonder if it simply is wrong type or has tolerance that falls outside of what your board accepts.