VOGONS


First post, by Demo85

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Hey, have this 4200 I want to use in my 98 machine, it works great but the one cap is bulging and I figure I might as replace them all. Now I've recapped a few of my retro consoles before, have a desolder gun and it's a easy job but I always had a cap kit to work from. I've n ever had to pick out the right caps myself. Hoping someone here could help me get the right cap for my card. Gonna upload a few pics here

HDwEmhM.jpg
kDiiAbk.jpg
puzRfaE.jpg

If anyone could maybe link me to the caps I need, I tired looking up the specs myself but thier seems to be endless options. I'm looking for one of the better options available. Also have the card has some surface mount caps
W1Qv1s4.jpg

I don't have the slightest clue on how to find replacements for these, they are not bulging but for peace of mind i'd rather replace them too .

Thanks for any help you can provide

Reply 1 of 8, by TehGuy

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Digikey, mouser, etc. (depending on where you live and what's available) are generally good places to look for buying caps. They're all probably going to be aluminum electrolytic or aluminum polymer depending how much money you feel like spending (polymers are more expensive, but will last longer from what a friend told me), though I'm unsure how to read the ones in the last picture to be able to say what you'd need to look for. For the other pics, you'll probably want any reputable brand 330uF 6.3V and 1000uF 6.3V caps with a lead spacing of around 0.197" / 5mm (measure this before buying anything). Hight isn't the most important, but I would try to get it as close to the original cap as you can.

Capacitance for the ones in the last pick look to be 2x 1500uF, 1000uF, dunno about GS 4R7 or what it is, 470uF, and 82(?)uF. Dunno how to figure the voltage or if it's the last listed number on each of the tops (as the datasheet for the purple one seems to tell me https://docs.rs-online.com/5942/0900766b81251944.pdf ).

Now I don't know much beyond replacing a cap with stuff rated the exact same as the old one, but I hope it's a start

Win98+DOS: C3 Ezra-T 1.0AGHz / P3-S 1.26GHz, 128MB RAM, AWE64 + Orpheus + Audigy 2 ZS, Ti 4200, 128GB SD card
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Reply 2 of 8, by Shponglefan

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With capacitors, there are four things to pay attention to:

1) Capacitance typically measured in microfarads (uF).
2) Voltage, measured in V.
3) Polarity, usually indicated by a stripe or marking on one of side of the capacitor
4) Package size (height, width, and lead spacing)

Capacitance

For capacitance most of the time you'll want a capacitor with the identical capacitance. In the first and third picture, those caps are 330uF. So you'll want a capacitor that is also 330 uF. The second picture is 1000 uF.

For surface mount caps, markings can vary, but typically the large numbers will indicate the capacitance. In your case it looks like you've got a couple 1500uF caps, 1000 uF, 470uF (green), and 82uF (purple).

Voltage

For voltage, you'll want a capacitor with either the same or higher voltage. The top caps all look like they are 6.3V. You'll want two 330 uF capacitors with 6.3V or greater and one 1000 uF with 6.3V or greater. For the surface mount caps, most of them are 6V expect for the purple which is 16V.

Polarity

For polarity, if the capacitor has a stripe running down one side, that indicators the negative side of the cap. You'll want to replace the capacitor with one that matches the polarity, so pay attention to which side negative end is soldered to on the board.

For the surface mount caps, the polarity is indicated by those black/colored shades on the top. The side with the shaded part is negative.

Some capacitors are non-polarized and won't have this particular stripe. Not sure if this is the case for the first three caps without seeing the other side of them.

Size

Finally, there is the physical size of the capacitors. The most important is usually lead spacing. It's not 100% critical (since leads can be bent), but it does make for a neater install. Physical width and height can also be an issue sometimes, depending on the space on the board or enclosure.

My general rule of thumb is to obtain caps with identical specs as the originals. I typically use Panasonic or Rubycon branded capacitors as they tend to be high quality. Mouser and Digikey are good places to order from.

One last note: I would skip replacing the surface mount caps unless necessary. Removing and replacing surface mount caps can be a bit trickier and you can more easily damage pads if you're not careful. If you haven't worked with surface mount items, I'd recommend practicing on a practice kit or sacrificial board first.

Last edited by Shponglefan on 2022-06-28, 01:25. Edited 3 times in total.

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Reply 3 of 8, by Shponglefan

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TehGuy wrote on 2022-06-27, 23:34:

dunno about GS 4R7 or what it is

It looks like an inductor.

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486 DX-33 with 5 sound cards

Reply 4 of 8, by bofh.fromhell

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Also many cards have thru-hole AND SMD mountingpoints for the caps.
Check the other side if you are lucky.
Makes it a bit easier if you are more used to thru-hole stuff.
And remember the height of the components, i believe its 12mm max (component height) for 1 slot cards unless you are OK with fouling the next cardslot.

Reply 5 of 8, by smtkr

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Shponglefan wrote on 2022-06-28, 01:19:
TehGuy wrote on 2022-06-27, 23:34:

dunno about GS 4R7 or what it is

It looks like an inductor.

I don't know what the GS stands for, but 4R7 is a 4.7 uH inductor. The R is a decimal

Reply 7 of 8, by TehGuy

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Demo85 wrote on 2022-07-11, 08:51:
Thanks for all the help so far guys, I did post the wrong picture in the OP. https://i.imgur.com/8EbaVHb.jpg I meant to post t […]
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Thanks for all the help so far guys, I did post the wrong picture in the OP.
8EbaVHb.jpg
I meant to post this to ask the values. I'm not sure how to decode it.

is there any other information on the other side of the cap, like series lettering or something? I've found a datasheet with just about every Sanyo OS-CON cap series, which that looks like, but nothing lists 510/4 (which I'm pretty sure is 510uF 4v). You're looking for something like SC, SL, SA, etc.

Said sheet has also revealed that the purple SMD cap in that last photo in your OP is also a SANYO, possibly 16SVPD82M, in case that's still relevant.

EDIT: datasheet in question https://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/download … =M&term=10SL22M

Win98+DOS: C3 Ezra-T 1.0AGHz / P3-S 1.26GHz, 128MB RAM, AWE64 + Orpheus + Audigy 2 ZS, Ti 4200, 128GB SD card
Win XP SP3: C2Q 9650, 4GB RAM, X-Fi Titanium, GTX 750
PowerMac G4 QS 800MHz + GeForce4 Ti4200, OS 9
PowerMac G5 DP 1.8Ghz + ATi x800 XT, Leopard

Reply 8 of 8, by Demo85

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TehGuy wrote on 2022-07-12, 12:39:
is there any other information on the other side of the cap, like series lettering or something? I've found a datasheet with jus […]
Show full quote
Demo85 wrote on 2022-07-11, 08:51:
Thanks for all the help so far guys, I did post the wrong picture in the OP. https://i.imgur.com/8EbaVHb.jpg I meant to post t […]
Show full quote

Thanks for all the help so far guys, I did post the wrong picture in the OP.
8EbaVHb.jpg
I meant to post this to ask the values. I'm not sure how to decode it.

is there any other information on the other side of the cap, like series lettering or something? I've found a datasheet with just about every Sanyo OS-CON cap series, which that looks like, but nothing lists 510/4 (which I'm pretty sure is 510uF 4v). You're looking for something like SC, SL, SA, etc.

Said sheet has also revealed that the purple SMD cap in that last photo in your OP is also a SANYO, possibly 16SVPD82M, in case that's still relevant.

EDIT: datasheet in question https://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/download … =M&term=10SL22M

mh7hKUc.jpg

Looks like it's "OS", not sure what that means for replacement