VOGONS


First post, by OriginalDan

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Hi so forgive the noob questions but i picked up a KTX CAE565SG and it has soldered in vga and power connectors but the power terminates in a male IEC as shown:

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while i do have spare female iec to wall cables i figured id google around a bit first and found this quora thread and a comment from Richard says:

"One of the monitors, I believe the color one, required the video signal from the computer to generate that signal. In fact the CPU clock frequency was specifically chosen in the original PC to generate as a sub-harmonic the horizontal frequency. In any event, if you plugged in the color monitor without a functioning computer video signal, its power supply literally burned itself out. So the answer was to make sure the monitor draw its AC power from a switched socket on the computer itself so that it would always have the proper video signal."

I'm assuming this tube is 15khz so my hdmi/displayport to vga adapters likely wouldn't output such a signal?
i picked up a DisplayPort to HDMI VGA Adapter DP2VGAHD20 as it's a commonly recommended by reddit as I've been testing numerous CRTs lately although i fear I've got one of the cheapened down variants, a few crts ive used will randomly cut video on and off however with a no named generic random hdmi to vga adapter works just fine 🤣.
the startech does have a legup where it usually detects the actual monitors name and only lists its max supported res/refresh rates vs the generic where you can push a lot of unsupported modes.

to add to this apprently this specific model CRT was recalled in Australia!

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so that info plus the comment saying certain ibm crts burned out without a video signal and I'm just wondering what's the best way to power this up without starting a fire haha.

would powering this via wall socket instead of the 2port psus fry it without a video signal? and is it possible to output a 15khz signal from a modern pc?

Reply 2 of 5, by BitWrangler

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He's talking about the original IBM CGA monitor which was notoriously delicate in several regards.

If you are worried about leaving that particular monitor powered, maybe get a switched power bar.

Your monitor seems to be a typical low-mid end VGA/SVGA model which will accept normal 640x480 and 800x600 signals from a mid 90s VGA card, probably 60-72 hz Might not do 1024x768 without some tuning.

Unicorn herding operations are proceeding, but all the totes of hens teeth and barrels of rocking horse poop give them plenty of hiding spots.

Reply 3 of 5, by maxtherabbit

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It was the IBM 5151 monochrome display which used the horizontal sync from the video card to drive the deflection and could be damaged by an out of spec input.

There has never been a monitor to my knowledge that could destroy itself from simply receiving NO video input, that sounds like utter nonsense.

Reply 4 of 5, by konc

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As other said just power the monitor normally, the quoted text has nothing to do with it.
If you're worried about its condition use some expansion and turn it on outdoors. Video card/signal is not required.

Reply 5 of 5, by OriginalDan

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thanks for the info, i powered it up and heard some popping i didn't record the first power on
https://youtu.be/m3HS09fSIN0
0:00 some clicking when powered up, became less common overtime?
0:24 NEC test suite, high voltage reg test shows an unstable horizontal on a bright image
1:02 notice how the horizonal is only bad on the brighter area but not the text box above it?
but then switching back to high voltage reg, you can see it reappear but makes me think Any part of a horizontal line thats above a certain brightness level is causing the entire line to become unstable?
1:35 just some quake (steam version) demo footage which looked totally fine after the monitor calmed down,
again the issues would reappear if i played very bright content and seemingly reguardless of brightness settings

luckily i opened it up before powered it on and noticed the fuse was partly out, aside from rusty screws, no obvious signs of corrison or bulging caps,
there was a torn up warrenty sticker so it's likely someones been in here and possibly worked on it.
album of images i took inside for anyone stumbling into this from the future: https://ibb.co/album/Bwtw6c?sort=name_asc&page=1
only thing that stood out to my untrained eyes was:
21.jpg
where it looks like they may have lifted the pads partly around that cap socket and just filled it with solder?

it does support 1280x1024 surprisingly, no OSD though. overall when it is calm and working normally it looks 'okay' it has a bit of phosphor trail but nowhere near a recent Samsung SyncMaster 550s that was aweful compared to this,
there's definately a green tint of course i can't change any colour values from the front controls and due to how the case is designed i can't sit the tube upright or on its side
so i can't access the screen flyback controls or any of the pots on the board 😒
normally i use this trick i read from a comment on one of adrians digital basements videos:

A suggestion when trying to adjust the image at the 44:00 mark, turn the brightness/contrast all the way down, turn the screen […]
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A suggestion when trying to adjust the image at the 44:00 mark,
turn the brightness/contrast all the way down,
turn the screen pot up until you get the retrace lines,
turn the screen pot back down until the lines JUST go away,
and leave the screen pot at that level.
Then adjust the brightness/contrast/colors as needed.
If it still looks dim at that point, then yes. The tube is weak.
That's what I have found to be the best way to get the best results

but yeah unfortunately i can't access any of those controls while being able to see the screen, i might have to buy some sorta small glass stand for situations like this, otherwise with no schematics out there and me not being confident to work on a live chassis outside of adjusting pots ill have to pack this one up and store it away until i learn a lot more about servicing these.
I've seen folks over at r/crtgaming recommend books like 'Basic television by Bernard Grob' as well as his basic eltronics books, let me know if anyone has any recommended reading on learning crt repair