VOGONS


First post, by TheAbandonwareGuy

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Hey there! Cyb3rst0rm The GPU collector here!

So I wanted to start a thread, which basically is just logging different attempts at repairing various (3D/complex) graphics cards. These seem to be among the highest failure rate devices in retro computing, so it makes sense to start a compendium that is searchable so we can start identifying common problems with various graphics cards/series of graphics cards.

TEMPLATE:

  • Date:
    GPU Model:
    Problem:
    Work Performed:
    Result:
    Extrapolation:
    Comment:

Please try to be as detailed as possible with the work performed and GPU model. Include images if you are able.

I'll start the thread.

  • Date: January, 2023
    GPU Model: EVGA NVIDIA GeForce 6800GT AGP 256MB
    Problem: Artifacting at BIOs
    Work Performed: Reflow with hot air gun. Slowly warmed the board at max temp, air pressure one by slowly moving across the board for several minutes on each side. The secondary goal of this is to reflow all the numerous SMD devices on each side. You should move slow enough to do this. It is very time consuming. Then each RAM module was subjected to air pressure level 5 for 45 seconds each, and the main GPU die was heated for a total of 10 minutes. All at max temperature.
    Result: Artifacting resolved, card returned to full functionality.
    Extrapolation: Unidentified solder joint failure
    Comment: Likely a failure of the BGAs below either the ram modules or main GPU.
  • Date: January, 2023
    GPU Model: Dell ATI Radeon 9800XT 256MB
    Problem: Artifacting at BIOs
    Work Performed: Reflow with hot air gun. Slowly warmed the board at max temp, air pressure one by slowly moving across the board for several minutes on each side. The secondary goal of this is to reflow all the numerous SMD devices on each side. You should move slow enough to do this. It is very time consuming. Then each RAM module was subjected to air pressure level 5 for 45 seconds each, and the main GPU die was heated for a total of 10 minutes. All at max temperature.
    Result: Artifacting temporarily resolved, however the card needed a new fan and after the card sat for a couple of weeks waiting on it, upon retesting the problem had reappeared.
    Extrapolation: Unidentified solder joint failure
    Comment: Likely another BGA failure. Likely will need higher temperature equipment or a proper BGA reflow machine to fix this.
  • Date: January, 2023
    GPU Model: BFG Asylum NVIDIA GeForce FX5900 Ultra 256MB
    Problem: Artifacting at BIOs
    Work Performed:Reflow with hot air gun. Slowly warmed the board at max temp, air pressure one by slowly moving across the board for several minutes on each side. The secondary goal of this is to reflow all the numerous SMD devices on each side. You should move slow enough to do this. It is very time consuming. Then each RAM module was subjected to air pressure level 5 for 45 seconds each, and the main GPU die was heated for a total of 10 minutes. All at max temperature.
    Result: No change
    Extrapolation: Memory chip failure.
    Comment: Suspect faulty memory chips based on numerous other reports from this and similar models of FX5900.
  • Date: March, 2023
    GPU Model: EVGA NVIDIA GeForce 6600 256MB PCIe
    Problem: No Post, obvious vented main capacitors
    Work Performed: Replaced 4 main 1500uf 6.3v capacitors with identical spec replacements from Wurth Electronics.
    Result: Card restored to full functionality
    Extrapolation: Failed electrolytic capacitors
    Comment: N/A

Cyb3rst0rms Retro Hardware Warzone: https://discord.gg/jK8uvR4c
I used to own over 160 graphics card, I've since recovered from graphics card addiction

Reply 1 of 5, by TrashPanda

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I have a question in regards to replacing electrolytic caps, is it better to replace with low ESR caps or are they more a use case replacement where there is a specific reason for using them over normal caps ?

I have some board repairs coming up and a few will be on GPUs and the whole ESR no ESR can be a bit confusing.

I mostly ask because right now here in Australia I can get normal caps for days but ESR caps have a more limited range available at suppliers.

Reply 2 of 5, by TheMobRules

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TrashPanda wrote on 2023-03-08, 02:40:

I have a question in regards to replacing electrolytic caps, is it better to replace with low ESR caps or are they more a use case replacement where there is a specific reason for using them over normal caps ?

I have some board repairs coming up and a few will be on GPUs and the whole ESR no ESR can be a bit confusing.

I mostly ask because right now here in Australia I can get normal caps for days but ESR caps have a more limited range available at suppliers.

In most cases you can replace General Purpose (GP) caps with Low ESR without issues, although it has been reported that using caps with extremely low ESR (such as polymers) can lead to problems in certain scenarios such as power supplies, so you probably want to avoid those unless the design calls for ultra-low ESR specifically. Using a low ESR cap to replace a GP won't give you any noticeable advantages in most cases, it's just a matter of choosing what suits you best between endurance, size and price.

The reverse however is not true. If the manufacturer used a low ESR cap you should replace it with one of the same type, using a GP in this case may seem to work at first but you will likely encounter instabilities and severely reduced lifetime as the cap will probably be stressed beyond its possibilities, having to handle large amounts of ripple. So unless you really know what the circuit is doing do not replace low ESR with GP.

What I usually do is I try to find the datasheet of the caps I want to replace and then look for suitable replacements from reputable manufacturers. This site is extremely helpful for finding datasheets, even for chinese garbage brands:
http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/

Also, all caps rated 85C can be considered general purpose. I suggest replacing those with 105C rated caps in all cases, you'll get better endurance, especially if they are in a hot/cramped space.

Reply 3 of 5, by TrashPanda

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TheMobRules wrote on 2023-03-08, 03:17:
In most cases you can replace General Purpose (GP) caps with Low ESR without issues, although it has been reported that using ca […]
Show full quote
TrashPanda wrote on 2023-03-08, 02:40:

I have a question in regards to replacing electrolytic caps, is it better to replace with low ESR caps or are they more a use case replacement where there is a specific reason for using them over normal caps ?

I have some board repairs coming up and a few will be on GPUs and the whole ESR no ESR can be a bit confusing.

I mostly ask because right now here in Australia I can get normal caps for days but ESR caps have a more limited range available at suppliers.

In most cases you can replace General Purpose (GP) caps with Low ESR without issues, although it has been reported that using caps with extremely low ESR (such as polymers) can lead to problems in certain scenarios such as power supplies, so you probably want to avoid those unless the design calls for ultra-low ESR specifically. Using a low ESR cap to replace a GP won't give you any noticeable advantages in most cases, it's just a matter of choosing what suits you best between endurance, size and price.

The reverse however is not true. If the manufacturer used a low ESR cap you should replace it with one of the same type, using a GP in this case may seem to work at first but you will likely encounter instabilities and severely reduced lifetime as the cap will probably be stressed beyond its possibilities, having to handle large amounts of ripple. So unless you really know what the circuit is doing do not replace low ESR with GP.

What I usually do is I try to find the datasheet of the caps I want to replace and then look for suitable replacements from reputable manufacturers. This site is extremely helpful for finding datasheets, even for chinese garbage brands:
http://www.paullinebarger.net/DS/

Also, all caps rated 85C can be considered general purpose. I suggest replacing those with 105C rated caps in all cases, you'll get better endurance, especially if they are in a hot/cramped space.

Cheers for the explanation, so now what defines Ultra Low ESR vs Low ESR, For instance the caps I'm looking at replacing some GP ones with have a ESR rating of 39mOhm @ 100kHz other are 200+mOhm @ 120Khz and then a few I think might be miss-labled drop the Khz and are rated instead in Hz.

These GP ones are part of powerstages and possibly filtering for SDram so they could actually be ESR caps, ill be sure to look them up in that list you linked.

Reply 4 of 5, by TheAbandonwareGuy

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Date: 3/9/2023
GPU Model: PNY Verto NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700VE 256MB
Problem: Massive artifacting at BIOs
Work Performed: Replaced all capacitors, attempted reflow of main GPU core
Result: No change
Extrapolation: Bad VRAM or VRAM path
Comment: No other obvious damage to the card.

Cyb3rst0rms Retro Hardware Warzone: https://discord.gg/jK8uvR4c
I used to own over 160 graphics card, I've since recovered from graphics card addiction

Reply 5 of 5, by shevalier

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TheMobRules wrote on 2023-03-08, 03:17:

In most cases you can replace General Purpose (GP) caps with Low ESR without issues, although it has been reported that using caps with extremely low ESR (such as polymers) can lead to problems in certain scenarios

What matters is the time constant equal to the product of capacitance and ESR, see attachment.
Small ESR * big capacitance = stability region.
Do not use small polymer capacitor, like 10u*10V.
Use 100 - 560u * 6.3V in same case, and ypu got no problem.
Use big cased General use polymer capacitor from "third line manufacturer" , like SAmwha FB/Capson PS/Lelon
10mm dia, like the Capxon PS 2200u*6.3V.
its ESR is 12mOhm, which is comparable to the same UNITED CHEMI-CON KZE 1500u * 6.3 (23 mOhm) on meny old video/Matherboards

Attachments

Aopen MX3S, PIII-S Tualatin 1133, Radeon 9800Pro@XT BIOS, Diamond monster sound MX300
JetWay K8T8AS, Athlon DH-E6 3000+, Radeon HD2600Pro AGP, Audigy 2 Value