VOGONS


First post, by CrazyCatman

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I've received a 2007 Belina o.display 2.1 22" Wide monitor with build-in speakers which worked great during my smoke test - at least until I plugged in the sound.

It suddenly is black (technically blinking as the light starts and stop) and the power LED is blinking in the same rate (no code), so it seems like the monitor powers on an off again continuously in a loop.

I've checked around and most articles and videos I've seen have shown bulgy capacitors, which also were my initial thought but I can not see any on my power board.
One video also showed clearly burned parts, but as far as I can see my power board of clean.
There is a high electrical "pitch" (barely hearable but is kind of a background noice).

Before I take it to the recycling center I would love to see if anyone else have some heat ideas of what to check for, since I've honestly would love to use it for my PeCy from 2003 as it fits it's colour scheme quite nicely.

I've attached some pictures of the power board which I think is the issue.
On the motherboard I also can not see any visible damages.

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I really hope that some of you will have suggestions that leads to the recovery of this nice screen so we can avoid it ends up as eWaste 😀

So many computers, so little time...

Reply 1 of 2, by weedeewee

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You might want to take the psu off and have a look at the underside. There will be more ICs to inspect.
Careful though with the pins of the big crookedly placed capacitor. It can harbor a stinging voltage.

The blinking makes me think a short somewhere not enough to cause the fuse to blow, but enough to cause the regulator to trip and start again.

Right to repair is fundamental. You own it, you're allowed to fix it.
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Reply 2 of 2, by BitWrangler

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First thing I would do would be to sanity check the audio source, no DC voltage or huge amounts of AC hum picked up on it's cable suck that that would be tripping the power control in the monitor.

Second thing I would look to see if audio processing/amplification circuit could be separated from the internal supply and powered for test independantly, if it seems to work and produce non distorted audio, we'll make the assumption for now that it's working. If it won't work or makes robot noises or something we will assume it is failed and may be drawing more current than intended or shorting.

Third thing if audio checks okay, I would proceed on the assumption that the onboard power supply and conditioning had gone marginal, and start replacing capacitors.

That's just how I would attack it, see where it matches up with what you can do and have resources for.

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