Finally tested HD2900XT that came some weeks ago. Seems it works fine 😀.
(A very important card in ATI's history. One that cost them company and AMD had to deal with fallout after paying $5BN.)
TODO: Disassemble and cleanup, new thermal pads, new paste, new backplate screws (M2.5x8 ??)

darry wrote on 2022-10-02, 15:14:

HanSolo wrote on 2022-10-02, 13:16:

Magically repaired my LS120 drive that I got some weeks ago. Simply by pluggin it in 😀
The empty disk-tray was lowered as if there was a disk in it. I raised it manually to insert a disk and after pushing the button to throw the disk out the tray stayed raised. I have no idea how it got into that state but now it's working again.
Only the faceplate is still unusable. The lower pin is slightly bent but bending it back might snap it. I'll try a hair dryer to soften the plastic but I assume that's not warm enough.

A 1500w hair dryer can be very hot. Be very careful not to deform the faceplate .

It worked with the hair dryer. Luckily the pin wasn't bent too much

Nexxen wrote on 2022-10-03, 07:29:

That message is a known issue with ram above 512 (or 768) with Win98. Unless you downgrade, it'll always display that. […]
Show full quote

retrogamerguy1997 wrote on 2022-10-02, 23:43:

Nexxen wrote on 2022-10-02, 21:59:

If ram is > 512 downgrade to 256.

unfortunatly, I don't have a 256mb stick, just two 1GB sticks

That message is a known issue with ram above 512 (or 768) with Win98.
Unless you downgrade, it'll always display that.

There is a registry hack. Look for Win 98 1gb registry hack, it'll come up here IIRC.
I could be wrong on sizes, you have a starting point.

hmmm, how I would apply it since it doesn't boot to desktop at all?

darry wrote on 2022-10-02, 06:05:

creepingnet wrote on 2022-10-02, 05:33:

Went through all the loose HDD I had laying around to decide what to do with them. Including attempting to upgrade the NanTan FM […]
Show full quote

Went through all the loose HDD I had laying around to decide what to do with them. Including attempting to upgrade the NanTan FMA3500C laptop.

First part is those FMA3500's use special Connor/Maxtor drives with the 3-pin power connector, however, I had a dead VersaDock power supply and as it turns out it has molex connectors in it that work like RJ jack punch downs. So I managed to properly wire that into the FMa3500C like it's factory, so now I can use pretty much any hard disk (within the limitations) on that BSi/NanTan monster I want. Unfortunatley I broke the screen latch though...sheesh. More BS & Superglue time later.

Got a ton of leftover drives - one 250MB from the NanTan FMAK9200D with the color screen, which I wiped. A 540 from one of the NEC Versa that all have 40/80GB ATA-133 drives in them now. 2 160GB, one 320GB, and one 500GB SATA HDD I've been messing with iwht the SATA to PATA adapter. I'm probably going to sell some of them, since I prefer ATA-133s or at least a 8GB ATA-66 in my computers when possible. I also tested out the 256GB mSATA SSD in the 44-pin converter, Windows would not pick it up (doh), I think that's going back into the FitPC Slim computer so it'll be more likely to sell. I can't seem to find a system it gets on with that well. Strange since the 486 DX4 LOVES that Samsung 256GB SSD I threw in it on the SATA converter for some crazy reason.

My end game is this now.....

I have 2 Amazon shelves that look really cool in black, when I started putting Laptops and little bonzai trees and whatnot next to them the wife has been saying to buy more. So now I'm looking at nabbing an AT&T 3180 or Ultralite Versa (yep again), and a few more NanTans, and then throw big HDD in all of them and have them where I can just grab one and go to town gaming on it whenever I feel like, and when not, I have these cool looking shelves with cool, FUNCTIONAL laptops on them.

Then I'm keeping only four desktops: Tandy 1000A, GEM 286, Compaq Deskpro 386s/20, and the CN486 desktop. One per monitor. I'm also trying to narrow down the keyboards and have specific setups for all...

TANDY 1000 = Tandy keyboard (obviously), Tandy Deluxe Mouse, NEC MultiSync II 14"
GEM 286 = one of the AT keyboards, Microsoft Dove Bar Mouse, KDS SVGA 14"
Compaq Deskpro 386s/20 = Compaq Keyboard, Compaq Mouse, Micron SVGA 14"
486 DX4-100 = One of the AT Keyboards or PS/2 Model M, Microsoft Dove Bar, Dell 17" SVGA

The troublesome part is picking the AT keyboard.....

NEC AT Keyboard = one of my favorites, it does not click too loud, but it has a confirming click. Works with everything great. Very heavy, very solid, very sturdy, but also very big.

IBM Model "M" = another favorite, clicks a lot, very loud, built like a tank, I love them, but they are not invincible, my wife has killed 3

Generic AT Keyboard = also great, feels a lot like my Chicony 5661 XT/AT, more reliable than the Chicony

Chicony 5661 AT/XT = Keyboard I've had since 2001 with Creeping Net 1. It's been run HARD. It's a little flaky on the 486 at times but it's my favorite one for that because that machine is really a mix of parts from the old original CN machines from the 2000's build in the best formation ever.

How did your wife manage to massacre a model M 3 times? The only methods I can think of are liquids, a hydraulic press or an industrial incinerator . 😉

Also, what is your shelving unit model ? I have one of these https://www.homedepot.ca/product/hdx-36-inch- … rome/1000740458 and am considering others.

Without getting too personal on the Model M front, she would spill liquids in it when she was allowed to drink certain fluids once upon a time and those fluids would have an effect and then she would spill them into the keyboard on accident. She's not allowd to have the one I have now.

The shelves I have for the laptops are two of these - https://www.amazon.com/Shelving-Storage-Adjus … ps%2C415&sr=8-7

The one I have in my closet is from Lowes, it was more expensive. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-14- … -Unit/999990402

Got some components installed on the DataExpert EXP8551 ver 1.2 board: RAM, CPU, and POST card.

Once I get off of work, the testing will commence.

Finally had some time to wire up the cheapy LCD I got off ebay to upgrade my DSTN Toshiba 400CS to 400CT. This is going way better this time and the untested cheapy LCD turned out to work great albeit with broken backlighting that I've now fixed.
Hopefully I finish up this retrofit quicker than my last one that ended up taking weeks. The parallel LCD wiring is done and the different voltage problem is sorted. Next I have to boost the backlight voltage so it can run the LED backlight and figure out a way to control the brightness of the backlight. Using the now un-used contrast wheel seems like a nice option if it can work.

creepingnet wrote on 2022-10-04, 00:11:

Without getting too personal on the Model M front, she would spill liquids in it when she was allowed to drink certain fluids on […]
Show full quote

darry wrote on 2022-10-02, 06:05:

creepingnet wrote on 2022-10-02, 05:33:

Went through all the loose HDD I had laying around to decide what to do with them. Including attempting to upgrade the NanTan FM […]
Show full quote

Went through all the loose HDD I had laying around to decide what to do with them. Including attempting to upgrade the NanTan FMA3500C laptop.

First part is those FMA3500's use special Connor/Maxtor drives with the 3-pin power connector, however, I had a dead VersaDock power supply and as it turns out it has molex connectors in it that work like RJ jack punch downs. So I managed to properly wire that into the FMa3500C like it's factory, so now I can use pretty much any hard disk (within the limitations) on that BSi/NanTan monster I want. Unfortunatley I broke the screen latch though...sheesh. More BS & Superglue time later.

Got a ton of leftover drives - one 250MB from the NanTan FMAK9200D with the color screen, which I wiped. A 540 from one of the NEC Versa that all have 40/80GB ATA-133 drives in them now. 2 160GB, one 320GB, and one 500GB SATA HDD I've been messing with iwht the SATA to PATA adapter. I'm probably going to sell some of them, since I prefer ATA-133s or at least a 8GB ATA-66 in my computers when possible. I also tested out the 256GB mSATA SSD in the 44-pin converter, Windows would not pick it up (doh), I think that's going back into the FitPC Slim computer so it'll be more likely to sell. I can't seem to find a system it gets on with that well. Strange since the 486 DX4 LOVES that Samsung 256GB SSD I threw in it on the SATA converter for some crazy reason.

My end game is this now.....

I have 2 Amazon shelves that look really cool in black, when I started putting Laptops and little bonzai trees and whatnot next to them the wife has been saying to buy more. So now I'm looking at nabbing an AT&T 3180 or Ultralite Versa (yep again), and a few more NanTans, and then throw big HDD in all of them and have them where I can just grab one and go to town gaming on it whenever I feel like, and when not, I have these cool looking shelves with cool, FUNCTIONAL laptops on them.

Then I'm keeping only four desktops: Tandy 1000A, GEM 286, Compaq Deskpro 386s/20, and the CN486 desktop. One per monitor. I'm also trying to narrow down the keyboards and have specific setups for all...

TANDY 1000 = Tandy keyboard (obviously), Tandy Deluxe Mouse, NEC MultiSync II 14"
GEM 286 = one of the AT keyboards, Microsoft Dove Bar Mouse, KDS SVGA 14"
Compaq Deskpro 386s/20 = Compaq Keyboard, Compaq Mouse, Micron SVGA 14"
486 DX4-100 = One of the AT Keyboards or PS/2 Model M, Microsoft Dove Bar, Dell 17" SVGA

The troublesome part is picking the AT keyboard.....

NEC AT Keyboard = one of my favorites, it does not click too loud, but it has a confirming click. Works with everything great. Very heavy, very solid, very sturdy, but also very big.

IBM Model "M" = another favorite, clicks a lot, very loud, built like a tank, I love them, but they are not invincible, my wife has killed 3

Generic AT Keyboard = also great, feels a lot like my Chicony 5661 XT/AT, more reliable than the Chicony

Chicony 5661 AT/XT = Keyboard I've had since 2001 with Creeping Net 1. It's been run HARD. It's a little flaky on the 486 at times but it's my favorite one for that because that machine is really a mix of parts from the old original CN machines from the 2000's build in the best formation ever.

How did your wife manage to massacre a model M 3 times? The only methods I can think of are liquids, a hydraulic press or an industrial incinerator . 😉

Also, what is your shelving unit model ? I have one of these https://www.homedepot.ca/product/hdx-36-inch- … rome/1000740458 and am considering others.

Without getting too personal on the Model M front, she would spill liquids in it when she was allowed to drink certain fluids once upon a time and those fluids would have an effect and then she would spill them into the keyboard on accident. She's not allowd to have the one I have now.

The shelves I have for the laptops are two of these - https://www.amazon.com/Shelving-Storage-Adjus … ps%2C415&sr=8-7

The one I have in my closet is from Lowes, it was more expensive. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-14- … -Unit/999990402

Thanks for the info about the shelves. I will look into those .
Liquids and keyboards don't mix. My wife's current laptop is on its second keyboard and I just received a replacement touchpad assembly for mine . I won't out my wife's keyboard-killing beverage of choice either (TBH I just don't remember), but my Dell M4800's touchpad buttons fell victim to red wine.

I have a total of 5 model M units (of which 2 are in service and 3 are newly rediscovered), so I should be good for a while, especially since the only computer I allow myself to use with a beverage nearby is my laptop and I don't use an external keyboard with it.

HanSolo wrote on 2022-10-03, 13:16:

darry wrote on 2022-10-02, 15:14:

HanSolo wrote on 2022-10-02, 13:16:

Magically repaired my LS120 drive that I got some weeks ago. Simply by pluggin it in 😀
The empty disk-tray was lowered as if there was a disk in it. I raised it manually to insert a disk and after pushing the button to throw the disk out the tray stayed raised. I have no idea how it got into that state but now it's working again.
Only the faceplate is still unusable. The lower pin is slightly bent but bending it back might snap it. I'll try a hair dryer to soften the plastic but I assume that's not warm enough.

A 1500w hair dryer can be very hot. Be very careful not to deform the faceplate .

It worked with the hair dryer. Luckily the pin wasn't bent too much

Glad that it worked. LS120 drivers can be great with recovering DATA off of marginally readable floppy disks . IMHO, that's the main point of having one .

darry wrote on 2022-10-04, 03:51:

HanSolo wrote on 2022-10-03, 13:16:

darry wrote on 2022-10-02, 15:14:

A 1500w hair dryer can be very hot. Be very careful not to deform the faceplate .

It worked with the hair dryer. Luckily the pin wasn't bent too much

Glad that it worked. LS120 drivers can be great with recovering DATA off of marginally readable floppy disks . IMHO, that's the main point of having one .

That's good to know. Saving my box of old disks is still on my todo-list.
I bought the drive only because 'it's cheap so why not?' 😀 (and on the seller's photos it looked to be in working order)

I tested the DataExpert EXP8551 board and the seller was right. It is totally dead. The CPU isn't getting anything and I have everything correct in terms of jumper settings.

I also gave the ECS board a whirl again and it's totally dead and the 286 board that uses SIMM-30 RAM works well.

retrogamerguy1997 wrote on 2022-10-03, 20:49:

Nexxen wrote on 2022-10-03, 07:29:

That message is a known issue with ram above 512 (or 768) with Win98. Unless you downgrade, it'll always display that. […]
Show full quote

retrogamerguy1997 wrote on 2022-10-02, 23:43:

unfortunatly, I don't have a 256mb stick, just two 1GB sticks

That message is a known issue with ram above 512 (or 768) with Win98.
Unless you downgrade, it'll always display that.

There is a registry hack. Look for Win 98 1gb registry hack, it'll come up here IIRC.
I could be wrong on sizes, you have a starting point.

hmmm, how I would apply it since it doesn't boot to desktop at all?

If it boots from usb or cd, a linux live distro will do just fine.

TrueVegas wrote on 2022-09-26, 19:15:

TheMobRules wrote on 2022-09-26, 19:00:

TrueVegas wrote on 2022-09-26, 18:18:

I had the same reaction when I see the price of a beatiuful new"Ati Radeon 9800 Pro". 379 euros...
Do you think guys that is a good price?

That's pretty much the launch price of that card in 2003 (not accounting for inflation). Personally I think it's complete insanity for a mass-produced 20 year old card which isn't even close to being classified as a "rare item", but what do I know? For what it's worth, I got a mint 9800 Pro for $25 about 4 years ago...

Yes you are right. I think that the price storm that we see for the actual video cards has an influence on the entire businness.... About the Ati I bought 1 day ago an used 9700 for 30 euros, I hope it will work.

Ofc that is terrible price... Is nice to get NOS stuff, but they may be DOA, or even have blown up caps, and when u replace all of these caps, there is always the chance of the thing not working after that (happened 1 or 2 times on me sadly..) U better find some 9800Pro/ XT if u need one but from local AD site or place like recycling center, or a thrift store, or a flea market.. Chances are u may find what u are looking for, for dirt cheap like 10-15 euros..., but NOS from Ebay for that kind of money, while there is world wars, insane dumb inflations and shit, not a good idea..

Yes the TheMobRules is right the price is insane. Ofc if i sell a part for such money it will be fine by me, but if i am to buy on such prices hell naaa F that... Well but ur Mint 9800 Pro is not NOS, that is one of the things, the others 2 are ebay greed and the high prices overall on that site + the ebay and paypal cuts...

stef80 wrote on 2022-09-27, 09:24:

Shim problem stayed a bit longer and was still present with X800 series at least. They just circumvented it by cooler desing af […]
Show full quote

TrashPanda wrote on 2022-09-27, 07:11:

The 9800 Pro is the best of that series to get if you want one, its the model they fixed the shim on so they dont overheat and die.

9700 Pro is a gamble but if you can find one working and know how to mod the shim on it then its a great card to buy.

Shim problem stayed a bit longer and was still present with X800 series at least. They just circumvented it by cooler desing after 9700/9500 series.
General rule with those cards is: no big flat-surface coolers. To my knowledge only Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer(s) and Zalman VF700/900 fit within the shim area (direct core contact). I'd say VF900 is the best out of those because of thumb screws. I would avoid chinese Zalman knockoffs, they usually don't fit within the shim and quality is so so. Use that on GeForce.

Regarding availability, there are good alternatives (even NOS) that are worth considering:
* Radeon 9700TX (Dell OEM)
* FireGL X1-128
* FireGL X2-256

If you intend to use cards, replace stock cooler as soon as possible. Don't repaste stock. It won't solve the problem, but may accelerate it.
I would not advice removing shim, it's not easy and is not worth the risk.

PS: 379 euros ... not a good price.

Yes the 9700 Pro most of these cards are dead sadly, but most 9800 Pro/ XT will be working. I had some years ago very dead ASUS (jesus that brand...) 9800 Pro the GPU itself was dead AF since it did show only shit on the screen u cant see post screen, letters or anything but it was working with dead or very damaged chipset, guess it was victim of that cooler BS..
Well it does not need to be NOS, when it is in mint condition for good price. Best preserved parts i consider the best when second hand, are the ones that i am the second guy that touches them, after so many years, when someone did assemble the system originally, since they was well protected inside the metal case, and no one did toss and trow them around. So no need to pay arm and leg (maybe kidney too ?!?!?) for NOS, when u can find dirt cheap used parts in mint condition.. They are in fact WAY better:
1. WAY WAY cheaper
2. similar condition to NOS
3. when not having original box, saves ALOT of space, when many cards are inside shoe box
4. if the thing works fine, is better then NOS, as NOS have a chance to get defective at some point, while the used one is just working fine

BTW "ATi" FireGL x2 is not even an ATi card lmao... It is very interesting card is mix between IBM made chips, S3/ Diamond tech, and drivers by ATi since they did buy the FireGL brand 🤣.. I have one of these cards tho.. It did came from IBM IntelliStation Pro M with Pentium 4 1.6GHz (so powerful it will bend reality kekw) and RAMbus memory...

Radical Vision wrote on 2022-10-04, 16:40:

Yes the 9700 Pro most of these cards are dead sadly, but most 9800 Pro/ XT will be working. I had some years ago very dead ASUS […]
Show full quote

Yes the 9700 Pro most of these cards are dead sadly, but most 9800 Pro/ XT will be working. I had some years ago very dead ASUS (jesus that brand...) 9800 Pro the GPU itself was dead AF since it did show only shit on the screen u cant see post screen, letters or anything but it was working with dead or very damaged chipset, guess it was victim of that cooler BS..
Well it does not need to be NOS, when it is in mint condition for good price. Best preserved parts i consider the best when second hand, are the ones that i am the second guy that touches them, after so many years, when someone did assemble the system originally, since they was well protected inside the metal case, and no one did toss and trow them around. So no need to pay arm and leg (maybe kidney too ?!?!?) for NOS, when u can find dirt cheap used parts in mint condition.. They are in fact WAY better:
1. WAY WAY cheaper
2. similar condition to NOS
3. when not having original box, saves ALOT of space, when many cards are inside shoe box
4. if the thing works fine, is better then NOS, as NOS have a chance to get defective at some point, while the used one is just working fine

BTW "ATi" FireGL x2 is not even an ATi card lmao... It is very interesting card is mix between IBM made chips, S3/ Diamond tech, and drivers by ATi since they did buy the FireGL brand 🤣.. I have one of these cards tho.. It did came from IBM IntelliStation Pro M with Pentium 4 1.6GHz (so powerful it will bend reality kekw) and RAMbus memory...

To quote Bill Lumbergh: "Yeah. Um, I'm going to have to go ahead and sort of disagree with you there."

FireGL X1-128 is R300 with one resistor bridging different points. Same with X2-256 (a different X2)... R360 core, one resistor different points:
http://stevesimons.altervista.org/hardware/GC … 5009700pro2.jpg

Source: http://stevesimons.altervista.org/hardware/GCMods/index.html

That's the only GPU package difference. Other physical difference is 2 x DVI on FireGL cards. PCB is the same.

You can patch/softmod FireGL cards up to Catalyst 4.12 I think, with RivaTuner. Maybe even beyond, haven't tested. D3D should not be problem with original driver, OpenGL might.
Same thing with FireGL X3-256 (Radeon X800 Pro), which are BIOS-moddable to 16-pipes. Have it , done it!

So, what's the difference between NOS FireGL and used Radeon ?
I can remove TIM from core within few minutes on NOS card, with no residue. On a used card it's at least 2h process using heat and chemicals, and it's never 100% off.
Vendors kept stock of FireGL cards, probably for warranty/replacement purposes. They really are unused and unmolested. I have yet to find "new" Radeon 9700Pro in original package for reasonable price.

I mean, I have "the" card, but I use FireGL's / 9500@9700 / 9700TX (Dell OEM) because they are basically "same" thing but replaceable.

Well m8 i think u are comparing apples with oranges... I mean i can clearly see the S3 branding on the back sticker of my FireGL card... The guys at VGA Museum did explain it very well, in there.. As i said that card is very interesting, since it have IBM manufactured chips, it was S3-Diamond branded prob their tech, and later on ATi did buy the whole brand FireGL that being, and started making drivers... Now we can talk about FireGL x3, that card was 100% ATi (not sure if they did use some of the tech of the Diamond-S3, or mostly ATi tech), it was something like Radeon x800, but professional oriented.. But FireGL x1 and x2 was not ATi hardware... Still i am happy that card ended up like this, having multiple companies on it, instead being ATi only... Back in the days there was so many companies, some of them did bring great, or at least interesting stuff, like S3 Metal API, that FireGL x1 and x2 cards, or PowerVR and their Kyro and Kyro II based cards with the very interesting Tile architecture, or Rendition and their Speedy3D API, or MatroX and the many cards that they did try to bring 3D graphics to the next level, but failed every time, or SiS + Trident with their XGI and Volari V8 Duo that was crap, but is cool to have and many others...

https://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/cpu/item … ti-fire-gl2-ibm

Radical Vision wrote on 2022-10-04, 22:42:

Well m8 i think u are comparing apples with oranges... I mean i can clearly see the S3 branding on the back sticker of my FireGL card... The guys at VGA Museum did explain it very well, in there.. As i said that card is very interesting, since it have IBM manufactured chips, it was S3-Diamond branded prob their tech, and later on ATi did buy the whole brand FireGL that being, and started making drivers... Now we can talk about FireGL x3, that card was 100% ATi (not sure if they did use some of the tech of the Diamond-S3, or mostly ATi tech), it was something like Radeon x800, but professional oriented.. But FireGL x1 and x2 was not ATi hardware... Still i am happy that card ended up like this, having multiple companies on it, instead being ATi only... Back in the days there was so many companies, some of them did bring great, or at least interesting stuff, like S3 Metal API, that FireGL x1 and x2 cards, or PowerVR and their Kyro and Kyro II based cards with the very interesting Tile architecture, or Rendition and their Speedy3D API, or MatroX and the many cards that they did try to bring 3D graphics to the next level, but failed every time, or SiS + Trident with their XGI and Volari V8 Duo that was crap, but is cool to have and many others...

https://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/cpu/item … ti-fire-gl2-ibm

The IBM-based ones don't have the X in the name, it's just Fire GL/2/3/4. Fire GL X1 and X2 are indeed ATi cards.

Did some more testing on the EXP8551 and the IRDY and Frame lights illuminate on the PCI side, yet the ISA doesn't show IRDY. I made different BIOS revision ROMs to no avail, tested different RAM to no avail, and nothing is working. The JBT is getting fluctuating voltage (DC) on both Base and Emitter, yet collector shows 3.45V, which I have no idea if the fluctuating voltage is good or not, I cleaned the RAM slots to no avail, and I also sprayed 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol everywhere, minus the CPU socket.

Update: I took the CPU off of the clip-on heatsink since the pins didn't go all the way down and it sprung to life. I put on the real heatsink fan combination and it's been confirmed that it's working. Huzzah!

Playing a couple of levels of stronghold in the evenings via onyx. Really enjoying it, didn't get it when I tried it out years ago, coming from Caesar iii and anno 1602. Loving it 😀 bonus is the soundtrack is by euvino, the same guy who did Caesar iii

Messed around getting a Promise Ultra 66 going in my PCI 486, and it detects the drive, but will not boot. Dos setup disk hangs at booting, but will eventually get through, then when running FDISK it proclaims an error. I'll look more into it later.

I'm sourcing some 50ns FPM memory chips from china and looking at ways to get new PCBs manufactured. You can find 50ns 30pin FPM, and 50ns EDO 72pin, but no 50ns FPM 72pin as far as I'm aware. If I go completely custom I might do larger capacities, other interesting things. We will see. All depends if I can find CADs/Gerbers for the PCBs.

Right now I'm testing reusing old PCBs but I've had a couple of failures cleaning them up and just need some more stock - these are 2 x 32 FPM simms, but I might do quads once I get the proof of concept working. If anyone has any old 72pin FPM modules lemme know.

Today I switched out the PSU in my 233mmx and the 120mm Fan.

The one on the left is the new one I switched in (250Watt) and the right one is the one switched out (230watt) The 250watt felt far better quality.

Before fitting it, I switched out the loud fan. I had a really quiet Sharkoon fan lying about so swapped that in.

The 120mm fan was a slim Asaka model and I swapped it out for a Corsair one out of my 5000D Case. Its far quieter.

All buttoned backup and tested its ok

Bancho wrote on 2022-10-07, 14:01:

https://i.imgur.com/MK3iPTEl.jpg […]
Show full quote

That's a neat looking case. Never seen one with quite that design before. Looks very slick!