There are pros and cons of both new and old SC-55 versions, I'd just get whichever you come across first at a reasonable price.
Some people prefer the non-ST version of the SC-55 because you get an LCD and more buttons.
Here in the UK a working SC-55 of any kind seems to be worth about £50.

So there aren't any one-size-fits-all solutions.
I guess I'd be better off getting a "new" SC-55, a SC-55MKII or even a SC-155 (those appear to be kinda rare).
I was wondering about the Roland JV-30 keyboard, because it appears to be the best of both worlds,
but it might also be expensive (and takes a lot of room for what it does).

PoulpSquad wrote:

So there aren't any one-size-fits-all solutions. I guess I'd be better off getting a "new" SC-55, a SC-55MKII or even a SC-155 ( […]
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So there aren't any one-size-fits-all solutions.
I guess I'd be better off getting a "new" SC-55, a SC-55MKII or even a SC-155 (those appear to be kinda rare).
I was wondering about the Roland JV-30 keyboard, because it appears to be the best of both worlds,
but it might also be expensive (and takes a lot of room for what it does).

If you don't need MT-32 compatibility, the SC-50 also pops up from time to time.

PoulpSquad, your thinking reminds me of my mindset many years ago 😀

I just ended up getting all the different versions 🤣

If you don't need MT-32 compatibility, the SC-50 also pops up from time to time.

I ended up getting a CM-32L and a MT-32 old type... praying the CM-32L is in fact 100% compatible with MT-32 new type... but hey, it's Roland, I should know better by now ><
So I guess I don't need...

PoulpSquad, your thinking reminds me of my mindset many years ago 😀

I just ended up getting all the different versions 🤣

Just curious, what MIDI modules do you use regularly for games?
Apparently I'm well on my way to do this... it's all cool and dandy, my heirs can turn my place into a Roland museum or something.
I think I'm realizing by now it won't be as simple as I imagined, and that I'll end up having 4 different MIDI modules.
The only thing that bothers me right now is to have to switch input for each game... I wonder if there exists an audio switch that plugs in a COM or LPT and can switch from DOS,
like running a command to select input...

On my main retro DOS machine I've got MT-32 (old), CM-32L, SC-55 and MU-80. I used to use fancy switches and splitters, now I just plug in the cables as needed. The cable spaghetti I had before wasn't working for me.

My main pure DOS rig uses MT-32 (old), CM-32L, Yamaha FB-01, and SC-55 (first version). My main Win98SE rig uses a CM-64, SC-55MKII, and a Yamaha MU2000EX. Of course each rig as its own soundcards as well which range from GUS to AWE32's. I want as many options as I can for the period of games that the rigs are designed to play.

As to your worry about the CM-32L being MT-32 new compatable, well all of the CM units will be 100% MT-32 new compatable so you need not worry on that account. The draw backs to the CM units (beside the price), is the early versions can have a tad bit of noise compared to later revisions (ie some hiss, cracks and pops but its not bad), they also lack a programmable display (which many MT-32 games made use of with cute and funny messages that went with the game), and they use a different instrument map so older MT-32 games sometimes sound off. The advantage is the extra 33 sound effects which a number of later games took advantage of and those games lose out with an MT-32 old.

If you only play games from about late 1990 to 1993 then the CM unit is fine when it comes to MT or CM. But if you like to play 1987 to mid 1990 games then you are going to want to use an MT-32 old with your CM unit. As far as the the Sound Canvas goes, you wont really go wrong with any of them. There are only a couple of games that take advantage of or have any issues with each of the different models. If you really want to be "safe" then get a plain old SC-55. The MKII and above will have a cleaner sound, but have a few very minor issues with the loss of capital tone fallback. I mean its a really minor thing and most people never notice it. Put your money and effort into the MT and CM units, and get whatever reasonable deal you can find on any SC unit.

As far as hookup is concerned, I just plug in the midi cable to the unit I want to use at the moment, and use a cheap RCA switch to select which one the speakers are going to use. Standard MIDI plugs and sockets were designed for stage use, and can take LOTS of use from plugging in and out. Just don't force them and they will last for thousands and thousands of uses. Do buy quality cables though. That goes for audio patch cables as well. They should be well shielded and gold plated to resist corrosion.

Once you have your primary units, don't ignore other GM modules. Some good deals can be found on other units and they can be quite fun to play with and hear what some games sound like on units the game was never meant for. I recommend any of the older Yamaha units like the TG-100, or FB-01.

Thank you to both, the info you provided is very helpful.

My main pure DOS rig uses MT-32 (old), CM-32L, Yamaha FB-01, and SC-55 (first version). My main Win98SE rig uses a CM-64, SC-55MKII, and a Yamaha MU2000EX. Of course each rig as its own soundcards as well which range from GUS to AWE32's. I want as many options as I can for the period of games that the rigs are designed to play.

About the same thing here, I'm targeting games from around 1987-88 to 2002-03, but I was hoping to be able to do it on a single machine.
Apparently I'm well on my way to end up with a similar set-up as you, eg., multiple computers with specific MIDI units...

As to your worry about the CM-32L being MT-32 new compatable, well all of the CM units will be 100% MT-32 new compatable so you need not worry on that account. The draw backs to the CM units (beside the price), is the early versions can have a tad bit of noise compared to later revisions (ie some hiss, cracks and pops but its not bad), they also lack a programmable display (which many MT-32 games made use of with cute and funny messages that went with the game), and they use a different instrument map so older MT-32 games sometimes sound off. The advantage is the extra 33 sound effects which a number of later games took advantage of and those games lose out with an MT-32 old.

Thanks the dark gods for that. I got myself a CM-32L, almost exclusively for some Origin games (Ultima Underworld, Wing Commander etc.), and it wasn't cheap...
For good measure I got myself an old-type MT-32. I'm just glad I don't have to buy yet *another* MT-32!

If you only play games from about late 1990 to 1993 then the CM unit is fine when it comes to MT or CM. But if you like to play 1987 to mid 1990 games then you are going to want to use an MT-32 old with your CM unit. As far as the the Sound Canvas goes, you wont really go wrong with any of them. There are only a couple of games that take advantage of or have any issues with each of the different models. If you really want to be "safe" then get a plain old SC-55. The MKII and above will have a cleaner sound, but have a few very minor issues with the loss of capital tone fallback. I mean its a really minor thing and most people never notice it. Put your money and effort into the MT and CM units, and get whatever reasonable deal you can find on any SC unit.

Yes sir, done that, after trying a couple of games I can't believe how lost I was with the pitful FM noise of my SB Pro back in day of the first Wing Commander xD.
As for SC-55, I just found a reasonably priced SC-55 with both GS and GM MIDI logos. I hope it's a unit with the 1.10 control ROM, as I understand it's got the updated instruments mapping, is 100% compatible with GM, and still features capital tone fallback.

As far as hookup is concerned, I just plug in the midi cable to the unit I want to use at the moment, and use a cheap RCA switch to select which one the speakers are going to use. Standard MIDI plugs and sockets were designed for stage use, and can take LOTS of use from plugging in and out. Just don't force them and they will last for thousands and thousands of uses. Do buy quality cables though. That goes for audio patch cables as well. They should be well shielded and gold plated to resist corrosion.

I ordered a 4-ways MIDI splitter and a simple 4-ways audio switch with a rotary dial selector thing. That's the easiest solution I could come with... I hope it'll spare me the hassle (and wear on hardware) of unplugging and plugging stuff all the time.
Now I need to work out a list of games and the specific module they need... and remember to switch the outputs accordingly!

Once you have your primary units, don't ignore other GM modules. Some good deals can be found on other units and they can be quite fun to play with and hear what some games sound like on units the game was never meant for. I recommend any of the older Yamaha units like the TG-100, or FB-01.

Yup, I'm on it right now.
It's all dandy, I was sorta lost believing I was doing things wrong after buying so many MIDI modules, but after you people posted your comments I realize I wasn't that far off.

Phew! maybe some day I'll sit down and kill some Kilrathi!