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Tulip pc compact 2

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Reply 40 of 70, by Jo22

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Hmm.. Perhaps one of the inner pots is a victim of corrosion / surface rust ?

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Reply 41 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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keropi wrote:

Did you made a list of the pot names?
Thing is that since there are no outside pots then 99% it's not a case of one being set wrong... it even points out to a fault in 15khz sync section of the chassis but in order to be sure you must test either with another ega or another ega system that is verified to work OK...

No I didn't, I should have 😀 I will open it again soon, and also check for corrosion.

I found that this monitor is reaaaaly similar looking (internally and externally) to the Philips CM9043, for which I found a service manual here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1014793/Phi … ips-Cm9043.html

1982 to 2001

Reply 42 of 70, by keropi

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Your monitor does look like a Philips one - also looking like an early Commodore 1084 monitor (also made by Philips). I bet you found the service manual - a great help to a technician.

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Reply 43 of 70, by brassicGamer

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I'm having the exact same problem with the EGA card in my XT clone and it's a different card to yours and Keropi's.

That skewed pattern of graphics is usually what occurs when the graphics card is sending a resolution higher than the monitor can handle. For example, I have been using a Commodore 1084-D, which is an RGB monitor but can only display up to 200 lines of pixels, so any game displaying a res of 300x240 will corrupt the screen. Alternatively it could possibly be the refresh rate. The motherboard may have a dip switch or jumper for you to select between 50Hz and 60Hz. I have also had problems caused by the cable I made and I can't for the life of me work out what's wrong so I have ordered an RS232 extension cable for £3 off eBay. Hopefully that will help and I may be able to offer more advice.

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Reply 45 of 70, by keropi

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^ maybe you can test with a cheap CGA clone card ? It will output 15khz so you will be able to test the monitor

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Reply 46 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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keropi wrote:

^ maybe you can test with a cheap CGA clone card ? It will output 15khz so you will be able to test the monitor

I'd have to get something from eBay, there is (almost) nothing available locally. Shipping will be a bit expensive, and I have no real use for the CGA card after testing. There are some usable EGA cards available, but a bit expensive to just try out 😀

1982 to 2001

Reply 47 of 70, by chinny22

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As long as the shipping isn't crazy, you can maybe get an EGA card from a seller that accepts returns?

Reply 48 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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chinny22 wrote:

As long as the shipping isn't crazy, you can maybe get an EGA card from a seller that accepts returns?

I considered doing that, but I don't like to abuse returns. There is a local seller with some applicable cards, but the prices are a bit on the high side and they are listed as untested.

EDIT: also my gut feeling says it's the monitor, not the card.

1982 to 2001

Reply 49 of 70, by SpectriaForce

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Did you dive on this one: https://link.marktplaats.nl/m1186927285 The AT Compact 3 has an EGA card (which is a really nice little pc by the way).

Still, I don't think the problem is the card but a software or synchronisation issue with the monitor. You're probably better off to upgrade it with a VGA card and save yourself hours of time 😀

Reply 50 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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Ah, nope completely missed that auction 🙁 I Agree it's probably the monitor. However, pretty much everything I have is VGA and I would like to keep this little set original, since I also have everything else original (PC, monitor, books, disks, boxes, etc.). It could go into a museum haha.

I am considering having the EGA monitor checked/repaired by a professional. Will probably be stupidly expensive though 🙁

SpectriaForce wrote:

Did you dive on this one: https://link.marktplaats.nl/m1186927285 The AT Compact 3 has an EGA card (which is a really nice little pc by the way).

Still, I don't think the problem is the card but a software or synchronisation issue with the monitor. You're probably better off to upgrade it with a VGA card and save yourself hours of time 😀

1982 to 2001

Reply 51 of 70, by seob

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I would also say your best option would be a vga card. Makes live a lot easier.
Don't know where you live, but an old colleague of mine repairs electronics. He is oldschool and has fixed an apple lc-II monitor for me. You only need to have pacience since he is very busy.

Reply 52 of 70, by brassicGamer

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I worked out the problem with my system but I don't know if it helps you. Initially I thought the problem with colour depth and resolution was a limitation of the cable, which I had made with only 7 cores. While this works for monochrome and CGA, EGA requires the additional RGB signals. Using a 9 core wire made no difference, however. Worked out it's because, although the 1084 supports many colours with an Amiga signal, the D-Sub on the monitor itself only has connections for 1 RGB signal. This shouldn't be a problem with your monitor as the service manual shows all 9 pins are connected. Could definitely be worth testing continuity of the cable, checking which pin at one end connects to which pin at the other, remembering that if there is a short of some kind then one pin might be connected to multiple pins at the other end.

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Reply 53 of 70, by keropi

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^ what do you mean by that 1084 info? If the 1084 has a TTL switch and you activate it then you can connect a CGA or C128 and you will get all the colors those machines support

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only CGA though... I haven't tried any low-res EGA on a 1084.

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Reply 54 of 70, by keropi

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I made a PDF of the TEVA EGA manual with the pictures that Cyrix200+ provided , just in case anyone else wants it in the future: http://www.mediafire.com/file/u3x65l14pj1jvsq … card_manual.pdf

@Cyrix200+
did you find any software for the card? the manual mentions a DIAGNOSE.EXE - was it in your HDD?

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Reply 55 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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keropi wrote:

I made a PDF of the TEVA EGA manual with the pictures that Cyrix200+ provided , just in case anyone else wants it in the future: http://www.mediafire.com/file/u3x65l14pj1jvsq … card_manual.pdf

@Cyrix200+
did you find any software for the card? the manual mentions a DIAGNOSE.EXE - was it in your HDD?

Yes, it is on one of the disks included with the system. It shows the same distortion when testing the graphics. There is a picture of it in the opening post. If you want/need the software I put images of all of the disks online, but I'm not sure if I can share that here.

1982 to 2001

Reply 56 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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I bought (yes another) XT system which has a CGA card in it (this nice ATi Graphics Solution SR http://arvutimuuseum.ee/th99/v/A-B/52891.htm). I tried the monitor with it, but it has the same sync problems. So the problem lies with the monitor, which is good to know and I can start working towards a solution!

1982 to 2001

Reply 57 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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A little update: I also purchased another EGA card, which gives me the exact same problem.

I also took some time to slowly take apart the monitor a bit more, and I was able to spot all the potmeters on the PCB's. I adjusted the '15khz H.HOLD', 15khz H.CENTERING', '15khz H.WIDTH', '15khz V.HEIGHT' but no change or improvement at 15khz. I didn't expect to see a fix there but it would have been nice 😀

So there is probably a problem at the component level, which is going to be really hard to troubleshoot. Next step will probably be to take the PCB out and do a thorough visual check.

1982 to 2001

Reply 58 of 70, by Cyrix200+

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WHOOHOOO!!

Had a spare hour this evening, so I decided to poke around the monitor a bit. I was looking at the potmeters on the PCB and noticed that one was a little crooked and could be wiggled around a bit! It was the potmeter for adjusting the H CENTERING:

K4XnvOtl.jpg?1

So I warmed up my soldering station and tadaaaaa:

sOji6S0l.jpg

Took a while but it was fixed! And I did it myself! And it was free!

1982 to 2001

Reply 59 of 70, by bjwil1991

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Cyrix200+ wrote:
WHOOHOOO!! […]
Show full quote

WHOOHOOO!!

Had a spare hour this evening, so I decided to poke around the monitor a bit. I was looking at the potmeters on the PCB and noticed that one was a little crooked and could be wiggled around a bit! It was the potmeter for adjusting the H CENTERING:

K4XnvOtl.jpg?1

So I warmed up my soldering station and tadaaaaa:

sOji6S0l.jpg

Took a while but it was fixed! And I did it myself! And it was free!

Excellent job, my friend. I'm currently working on an Aztech Sound Galaxy NX Pro that needed repairs for the Mic, Line-In; Line-Out jacks, and volume potentiometer.
Jumpered wires to the appropriate pins since the volume was way too low and the traces were not good at all (Eyelets/Rivets broke off).

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