Can you post high res pictures of back and front? So one can visually inspect for damage/missing components.

Also are you sure you plugged into the right audio jack? I once plugged my speakers into the line in...

Try CAREFULLY pushing on components while playing music to figure out if there are any cold solder joints/broken joints that make bad contact.

I plugged into two "top" jacks, but also tried with other 2.
Already tried pushing the parts when playing music - still nothing 🙁

Pictures aren't working for me.

shock__ wrote:

Pictures aren't working for me.

For me neither. Just use the forum upload function.

Sorry for the mess. Hope you can see the photos now.
Please let me know what do you think.

C67/C68 look like they might have been bent in the past. Check if they're still working correctly. C65 looks like it may have been battered in the past in the photo (which may not be the case ... hard to judge).
Otherwise the board looks fine to me.

I once had a GUS with only one channel working. Turned out to be a malfuctioning TDA chip (U28). Once replaced it worked perfectly again.

This might be the case here too.

shock__ wrote:

C67/C68 look like they might have been bent in the past. Check if they're still working correctly. C65 looks like it may have been battered in the past in the photo (which may not be the case ... hard to judge).
Otherwise the board looks fine to me.

I will check, thank you!

Salient wrote:

I once had a GUS with only one channel working. Turned out to be a malfuctioning TDA chip (U28). Once replaced it worked perfectly again.

This might be the case here too.

If TDA isn't working, I should still have sound from line-out, non amplified?

Tested all resisters - R70 is shortened, or is it normal?

R70 is 4.7ohms so it will make a tester beep.

At the very least, U2, U4, U5 and U8 look like they are not very well seated in their sockets. It may just be the picture, but some of the resistors near the GF1 look like they have been abused or had over-heated at one time. It might be worth looking into that first.

Tiido wrote:

R70 is 4.7ohms so it will make a tester beep.

Good catch!

Looks like I found one shortened resister, the bottom one. It should be 2.2K right?
However when Joystick is disabled with jumper, I read 235 Omh.

Still can't make it work 🙁 Where can I find a replacement GF1 chip to try? How do I remove this chip from a deep socket to clean the contacts?

C42 is missing. Looks like somebody cut it off instead of unsoldering it.

Edit: Looking at other pictures of the 2.4 revision, it looks like there was never anything there... strange that your has snipped leads.

As for pulling the GF1 chip, you will need a PLCC chip puller to do it properly.

cyclone3d wrote:

C42 is missing. Looks like somebody cut it off instead of unsoldering it.

I understand that C42 has been removed in the factory on all cards after manufacturing.

For the tool you mean something like the one below?

Yep, that looks like the correct type of tool.