r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-19, 08:52:Is there any way to unlock it on the processor PCB, like by modifying resistors or something?
I don't know of any. But if it is locked, there is little point to use it instead.
Retro PC warning: The things you own end up owning you.
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-14, 04:38:The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of […]
The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of clearance.
I am somewhat disappointed with the noise level of the Noctua fan. The noise level it produces at the very least inline with other fans I've had in this size from other reputable brands like Papst and Sunon, though IMO the Papst fans I have actually have less whirring for more airflow. I'm kind of torn there, as I was planning to use the 5V version on my Voodoo cards, and now I wonder if I should check out the 10mm version or look for another brand. In terms of airflow this 40x20 from Noctua is "just enough" for this application, but I have yet to do actual testing. I have Fluke IR thermometer I can take measurements with.
So overall my print performed better than expected while the Noctua product performed worse than expected. So on average...?
zuldan wrote on 2024-08-12, 12:11:r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-12, 11:51:It shall receive fresh thermal compound and I already ordered a Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX for which I will print a shroud.
Have you got a link to the shroud?
🤣 so VOGONS had me ZIP up the STL file because apparently somehow that's better??? /rant
Any chance you're willing to share the source file as well? I've been considering for long to make a shroud, that has the fan in one end and blowing across the fins - your measuring and dimensioning work could save me some hours 🤣
If it's dual it's kind of cool ... 😎
--- GA586DX --- P2B-DS --- BP6 ---
Please use the "quote" option if asking questions to what I write - it will really up the chances of me noticing 😀
H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-19, 13:23:r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-14, 04:38:The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of […]
The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of clearance.
I am somewhat disappointed with the noise level of the Noctua fan. The noise level it produces at the very least inline with other fans I've had in this size from other reputable brands like Papst and Sunon, though IMO the Papst fans I have actually have less whirring for more airflow. I'm kind of torn there, as I was planning to use the 5V version on my Voodoo cards, and now I wonder if I should check out the 10mm version or look for another brand. In terms of airflow this 40x20 from Noctua is "just enough" for this application, but I have yet to do actual testing. I have Fluke IR thermometer I can take measurements with.
So overall my print performed better than expected while the Noctua product performed worse than expected. So on average...?
zuldan wrote on 2024-08-12, 12:11:Have you got a link to the shroud?
🤣 so VOGONS had me ZIP up the STL file because apparently somehow that's better??? /rant
Any chance you're willing to share the source file as well? I've been considering for long to make a shroud, that has the fan in one end and blowing across the fins - your measuring and dimensioning work could save me some hours 🤣
Of course. I put the SLDPRT file inside the archive.
I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-19, 22:32:Of course. I put the SLDPRT file inside the archive. […]
H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-19, 13:23:r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-14, 04:38:The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of […]
The 20mm fan sticks out 7mm more than Intel original, 10mm fans would be 3mm slimmer than Intel's. Ether way there's plenty of clearance.
I am somewhat disappointed with the noise level of the Noctua fan. The noise level it produces at the very least inline with other fans I've had in this size from other reputable brands like Papst and Sunon, though IMO the Papst fans I have actually have less whirring for more airflow. I'm kind of torn there, as I was planning to use the 5V version on my Voodoo cards, and now I wonder if I should check out the 10mm version or look for another brand. In terms of airflow this 40x20 from Noctua is "just enough" for this application, but I have yet to do actual testing. I have Fluke IR thermometer I can take measurements with.
So overall my print performed better than expected while the Noctua product performed worse than expected. So on average...?
🤣 so VOGONS had me ZIP up the STL file because apparently somehow that's better??? /rant
Any chance you're willing to share the source file as well? I've been considering for long to make a shroud, that has the fan in one end and blowing across the fins - your measuring and dimensioning work could save me some hours 🤣
Of course. I put the SLDPRT file inside the archive.
I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
Thanks. Hopefully Inventor, as we use for work, is able to import *fingers crossed*
[Edit:] Too new for Inventor 2019 🙁 I'll resort to measuring on the STL file, I think 😉
If it's dual it's kind of cool ... 😎
--- GA586DX --- P2B-DS --- BP6 ---
Please use the "quote" option if asking questions to what I write - it will really up the chances of me noticing 😀
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-14, 05:47:Test results: NFS HS replay loop: 42°C hottest point Prime95 stress test: 40°C hottest point […]
Test results:
NFS HS replay loop: 42°C hottest point
Prime95 stress test: 40°C hottest pointIMO acceptable numbers. Exactly how the game is hotter than Prime95 I have no idea, but that's what it is.
I'll be making fan mounts for my Voodoo 3 cards next. By the way, if anyone has a community project that needs printable parts designed I'm up for it. I enjoy this more than playing games anyway.
You may need to make a two fan version of the cover and then hook the fans up to a speed controller and lower their RPMs...two fans at a lower speed should in theory cool better than one fan at a noisy speed. I have a PIII with an after-market cooler with dual fans and a chunkier heat sink, its a far better setup than the tiny cooler Intel used.
A printable dual fan shroud would be a nice option to have along side the single one.
H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-20, 05:21:r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-19, 22:32:Of course. I put the SLDPRT file inside the archive. […]
H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-08-19, 13:23:Any chance you're willing to share the source file as well? I've been considering for long to make a shroud, that has the fan in one end and blowing across the fins - your measuring and dimensioning work could save me some hours 🤣
Of course. I put the SLDPRT file inside the archive.
I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
Thanks. Hopefully Inventor, as we use for work, is able to import *fingers crossed*
[Edit:] Too new for Inventor 2019 🙁 I'll resort to measuring on the STL file, I think 😉
Haven't used Inventor in 20 years. Seems my 2024 version can only save in SLDPRT going back to 2022... Not sure if that one is compatible further back.
Don't see IPT format support... So I dunno if there's another intermediary format that can be effectively used by both.
Trashbytes wrote on 2024-08-20, 05:48:r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-14, 05:47:Test results: NFS HS replay loop: 42°C hottest point Prime95 stress test: 40°C hottest point […]
Test results:
NFS HS replay loop: 42°C hottest point
Prime95 stress test: 40°C hottest pointIMO acceptable numbers. Exactly how the game is hotter than Prime95 I have no idea, but that's what it is.
I'll be making fan mounts for my Voodoo 3 cards next. By the way, if anyone has a community project that needs printable parts designed I'm up for it. I enjoy this more than playing games anyway.
You may need to make a two fan version of the cover and then hook the fans up to a speed controller and lower their RPMs...two fans at a lower speed should in theory cool better than one fan at a noisy speed. I have a PIII with an after-market cooler with dual fans and a chunkier heat sink, its a far better setup than the tiny cooler Intel used.
A printable dual fan shroud would be a nice option to have along side the single one.
Actually, I think it will be acceptable, because it is not really louder than hard drive motors. So for this reason I think "it will do".
As for multiple fans, it will be a fairly drastic difference because the fans would have to clear the push pins that hold the Intel cooler together (they go through the heatsink and processor card to clip into the plastic backplate). Sure, there's no actual reason for them to be that long, they can be trimmed to be shorter, but I generally prefer non-destructive modifications. I liked this design I produced because it just clips onto the factory stuff without damaging anything.
As-is, the 40mm round cutouts for the fan airflow will interfere with the Intel cooler assembly pins... It's possible to design raised pedestals to clear the pins as they are, I just don't love how that's going to come out. But if you want this, I can certainly make you the file, that's not a problem at all.
I will note here that the Noctua fan does come with "noise reduction" adapter cables, they have resistors in them. I think a lot of Noctua fans come with those. Then all you'd need is a Y-splitter... But like I said, I think the single will do if the system has hard drives.
Swapped for the 10mm fan model, it's actually sleeker, at least in looks. Unlike the 20mm model this one is not audible and cooling is adequate, even at 620Mhz & 2.2V.
IMO for these Katmai processors more cooling (more fans) won't be necessary.
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-12, 11:35:It's a SL37D exactly like this one:
Depending on the exact condition it's in, you might easily get a few more (and quieter) years
from it by:
What I often do with noisy fans is to put a drop of fine machine oil on the shaft.
Looking at you pic, I think it likely that under the sticker is where the rotor shaft
is - often there is a little rubber cap you would have to remove (save it so you
can put it back), the shaft should look like the end of a pin inside a larger metal
bearing/bushing.
A small drop of very fine oil. then rotate it with the end of the pin (where you
put the oil in) up - so gravity can help spread the oil into the bearing,
(I'll usually spin it a few times by hand to get it started, then run it in that
position for a few minutes.
I've had good luck doing this many times, but of course YMMV.
Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal
Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal
DaveDDS wrote on 2024-08-27, 03:06:Depending on the exact condition it's in, you might easily get a few more (and quieter) years from it by: […]
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-12, 11:35:It's a SL37D exactly like this one:
Depending on the exact condition it's in, you might easily get a few more (and quieter) years
from it by:What I often do with noisy fans is to put a drop of fine machine oil on the shaft.
Looking at you pic, I think it likely that under the sticker is where the rotor shaft
is - often there is a little rubber cap you would have to remove (save it so you
can put it back), the shaft should look like the end of a pin inside a larger metal
bearing/bushing.A small drop of very fine oil. then rotate it with the end of the pin (where you
put the oil in) up - so gravity can help spread the oil into the bearing,
(I'll usually spin it a few times by hand to get it started, then run it in that
position for a few minutes.I've had good luck doing this many times, but of course YMMV.
Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal
I addressed that in OP. I did peel the sticker but decided that it vibrates on the shaft to the point of being unsalvageable.
I'm aware of oiling, as a kid and later a poor student I've oiled fans with motor oil. Sometimes it helped. Sometimes.
This one was unsalvageable IMO. I'm happy with how the fix turned out.
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-12, 11:00:500MHz Katmai.
The original fan whines pretty bad. It's been that way for years, I just never got around to it. I cleaned it out, but when I spin it I feel some vibration, so I doubt oiling will save it. I want to replace it.
r00tb33r wrote on 2024-08-27, 06:56:I addressed that in OP. I did peel the sticker but decided that it vibrates on the shaft to the point of being unsalvageable.
You're probably right - but you might be surprised...
I've been known to use 90weight gear oil on some "rough" small things over the years, the heaver oil
keeps them more stable, and of course make sure it's clean an well balanced - a major cause of vibration
in spinning things is unbalance (for small stuff, often the result of having collected some surface crap).
Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal
Dave ::: https://dunfield.themindfactory.com ::: "Daves Old Computers"->Personal
Thank you for this! i was just about to start modeling myself when a decided to do a quick google search before.
I took the liberty of converting to fusion360 and making adjustment to the model as it did not fit my P3 heatsink.
@rootb33r, would you mind if i upload the updated model to printables? (With credit to the creator of course) i am sure a lot can enjoy this as well
