I’ve now received another of those machines and unfortunately it fits an older motherboard. AOpen MX3S-T. This is a socket 370 board with no 12V CPU socket.

That means, I guess, that a more modern power supply with weaker 3.3V and 5V might struggle, correct?
I’ll test the actual current draw of this board before I make a decision - I guess I’ll need to fix the power supply first as that seems to be the fault with it!

If higher currents on 3.3/5V were required, is there some sort of modern replacement which could work?

Thanks.

FSP Group means Fortron/Source , Sparkle Power Internatinal and Powertech systems, so it has to be a descent PSU. I'd go with option 1.

tony359 wrote on 2025-06-22, 13:35:

I’ve now received another of those machines and unfortunately it fits an older motherboard. AOpen MX3S-T. This is a socket 370 b […]
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I’ve now received another of those machines and unfortunately it fits an older motherboard. AOpen MX3S-T. This is a socket 370 board with no 12V CPU socket.

That means, I guess, that a more modern power supply with weaker 3.3V and 5V might struggle, correct?
I’ll test the actual current draw of this board before I make a decision - I guess I’ll need to fix the power supply first as that seems to be the fault with it!

If higher currents on 3.3/5V were required, is there some sort of modern replacement which could work?

Thanks.

IMO anything DC-DC. P3 does not require too much power, 100W pretty much any modern PSU can do should be comfortably enough.

Sadly manufacturers tend to not give info on specific type of PSU, so will have to use reviews to find one...

analog_programmer wrote on 2025-06-22, 22:48:

FSP Group means Fortron/Source , Sparkle Power Internatinal and Powertech systems, so it has to be a descent PSU. I'd go with option 1.

And the Sparkle PSU’s model begins with FSP 🙂

IMO anything DC-DC. P3 does not require too much power, 100W pretty much any modern PSU can do should be comfortably enough.

Likely a silly question: what you mean with P3?

tony359 wrote on 2025-06-23, 07:09:

And the Sparkle PSU’s model begins with FSP 🙂

Likely a silly question: what you mean with P3?

This was my short answer, that means: it's must be a descent PSU, so don't gut it, but rather restore it - you can do it for sure. And don't waste wrong money on new modern ATX PSU or those fancy Noctua fans. Open the original fan, clean and lubricate it.

P3 = PIII = Pentium III.

Understood.
I might get a few of those boxes and I was looking for a simple way to extend their lives and make them reliable. It’s something which ‘is not allowed to fail’ so I’d rather go with a new one but not a fancy one of course, check out the FSP I linked on this thread - no frills and server quality. My only concern is the power.

Ok, Tony. Now I saw it was used in P4/core2 system, so probably you'll be safe using some modern ATX PSU replacement. But anyway, you can still refurbish this PSU for using it in older PIII or early P4 not so power hungry systems.

Bay the way, the ball bearings of these fans can be disassembled (I mean those side metal plates that protecting the balls and keeping the lubricant inside) for grease lubricant refreshment.

The early messages mention an LGA775 board - for that one I’d agree I’m safe with a modern supply.

But then I stumbled into an older revision of this machine which fits an Aopen board with no 12V CPU socket. That is a bit more concerning. I’ll measure the actual voltages.

Yes I appreciate all those things could be ‘restored’ but they’ll be used for some critical tasks (I know, a vintage machine for that? 😂) and I’d rather have a bearing with less than 36000 hours on them 🙂
I won’t throw anything away of course. And if the PSU is bad, I’ll likely fix it on video 🙂

Thanks for now!

I've received the PSU and... bad news.

1. The fan is thermally regulated. So I'll have to mod it and wire it to 12V. Which means, I'm going to void the warranty
2. The bloody thing has a single 24pins plug - not 20+4! My MoBos are 20pin and at least one has the IDE socket where the "extra" ATX section would end up being.

Of course there are plenty of 20 to 24 adaptors but NOT 24 to 20!

This is not a good start!! 😁

Edit: I have to complain with FSP! The datasheet says 20+4!

If you have an old dead one and a small screwdriver or similar, swap the plugs.

They are only "hook" fit. Push the hook back, pull the pin out.
As for the fan, just use a second one.

Moving Molex pins around can be destructive, I'll have to see how they're fitted. Hopefully there is a tool available. I can purchase the two connectors and make a new one - I didn't think about that, thanks.

I doubt I can install another fan I'm afraid. This is a custom case which only has some small holes on the opposite end of the case and I doubt that a fan would do much there.
Most importantly, this is a sound device and I know how INCREDIBLY FUSSY sound devices are when a spinning fan generating a magnetic field is nearby! I have experienced this myself.

Thanks for the tips though. Digikey are looking into the issue - as FSP can't be contacted directly - and will let me know but I am not holding my breath 🙂

tony359 wrote on 2025-06-24, 16:01:

Of course there are plenty of 20 to 24 adaptors but NOT 24 to 20!

I think there it is?
https://www.atxpowersupplies.com/24-pin-to-20 … e-atx-converter

or, you can use a ATX power cable splitter which can break-up 24pin to 20+4pin.
https://world.taobao.com/item/626558833922.htm

tony359 wrote on 2025-06-25, 08:54:

Moving Molex pins around can be destructive, I'll have to see how they're fitted. Hopefully there is a tool available. I can purchase the two connectors and make a new one - I didn't think about that, thanks.

You're way over thinking it. Imagine a piece of metal with a U cut in it, making a tab. Bend the tab a bit. Now you have a hook. Slide something over it, and you can't pull it back until you flex the tab down.

That's what holds them in. There are usually 2 per pin. A toothpick will flex it and let it pull out.

myne wrote on 2025-06-25, 12:13:

You're way over thinking it. Imagine a piece of metal with a U cut in it, making a tab. Bend the tab a bit. Now you have a hook. Slide something over it, and you can't pull it back until you flex the tab down.
That's what holds them in. There are usually 2 per pin. A toothpick will flex it and let it pull out.

I'm a known overthinker 🙂
But I also crimp my own Molex, I know how they're made and I know they can be easily damaged. Some plugs are stiffer than others. Will keep that in mind!

roytam1 wrote on 2025-06-25, 12:06:

I think there it is?

Ha! Amazing. I did search but with no success. I'll keep that in mind too, thanks.

The correct depinning tool is a hollow metal cylinder which slides over the pin and depresses the tabs

maxtherabbit wrote on 2025-06-25, 18:57:

The correct depinning tool is a hollow metal cylinder which slides over the pin and depresses the tabs

The trick with cylindrical "cable lug" with suitable diameter works fine on molex connector pins, but never tried this on 20+4 ATX connectors.

Does anybody have any further recommendations on a replacement PSU for this machine?

The FSP needs quite a few adaptors as the datasheet is wildly incorrect.

It comes with a 24pin single ATX plug - which will need an adaptor
It comes with a single 8pin 12v CPU plug which will need an adaptor (I can fit that but the clip won't engage)
It comes with 3 4pin Molex instead of the 4 advertised - so I'll need a splitter

Plus I'll have to mod the fan.

I don't see to be able to find anything around of good quality. I found this https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2259245.pdf but it's 50.000 hours MTBF, the FSP is >100.000 and I'd like that! 😀

Maybe the "modular" model from FSP: https://www.fsp-group.com/download/pro/ ... asheet.pdf - the question is: Will the datasheet be accurate?? It'd still need two 4-pin Molex splitter and the fan mod.

Thanks!

To answer my own question, or try to, the latest PSU I am going to consider is this

https://industrial.seasonic.com/product/atx-et2/

It's "industrial" and has a 120mm fan - which I can replace with a good Delta 120mm fan for less than £10. Delta fans are rated 70k hours.

Seasonic's support has been great, they provided the datasheet and wiring info, everything is as I'd like apparently. And the PSU has a MTBF of 100K hours.

However, this made me laugh

So the PSU is rated 100K hours but the fan is not. Seasonic's support tells me the fans are 30/40k hours.

Sooooo.... the PSU will work for 100K hours but the fan will (might) fail after 40K - and the PSU shortly afterwards I guess.

Anyways, this seems to have all I need so it's going to be the next in the line.

Digikey still hasn't come back to me about the FSP power supply with incorrect leads. I'd imagine what is really happening is the legal offices working hard trying to find legal evidence that the specifications are subject to change (something, BTW, Seasonic's website asks you to accept before downloading a datasheet).

4.5-11 years ought to be enough, mate.

ahah yes!
Believe it or not, these are cinema players, for 70mm shows. There is no backup soundtrack on 70mm so if and when a cheapo fan fails, the player fails and the sound goes away. 😀

So I don't mind the extra 10 quid to get a proper fan. The one in the FSP feels REALLY cheap!

For a Retro PC project, of course the cheap one would be totally fine 😀

--

Just yesterday I read a comment on Reddit of someone saying that when a Brit says "mate" it's when they get serious! 😀 That made me laugh! (I'm Italian but also British BTW!)