PCBONEZ wrote:

Those use a lot of CapXon caps so at some point you will probably need to recap it. Otherwise it looks like a good PSU. . […]
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Duffman wrote:

I'll take all this hardware out and put it in a new chassis I'm not using at the moment […]
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I'll take all this hardware out and put it in a new chassis I'm not using at the moment

yeah I thought I wouldn't risk a chinese knockoff of coolermaster PSU if I want old hardware like this to survive

I went with FSP Instead, I know at least FSP are good
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FSP-HEXA-500-Power … t-/230907738529

just bought it
although if it still won't turn on with this new PSU then I've just spent AU$80 for nothing, that'll teach me to impulse buy

Those use a lot of CapXon caps so at some point you will probably need to recap it.
Otherwise it looks like a good PSU.
.

A couple years ago one night I was looking around for a small batch of affordable PSUs with more power than the 350W units I was already using and for some reason a retailer here in The Netherlands offered exactly this PSU for €35 or so....so I bought 5 of them right away (I already was short on cash, but I did it anyway).
The very next morning I noticed this retailer had changed the price with at least €20 but of course they still had to sell me 5 of them for the old price. I sold one of them to a friend of mine (for the price it cost me to get them) and this PSU powered a rig (iirc it was an AMD x4 or even a Bulldozer x8 along with a HD 6850) and the PSU seemed to work.

What I do not like about this PSU is it's not so great packaging (you'd better not drop it or the PSU itself may get damaged) and the thin wires...and I mean the wires to the molex and SATA connectors.

But it worked!

edit: You are right, I used a flashlight to look through the fan grill and it is indeed a CapXon 🤣

I don't know if it'll make any difference but I'll upload some pics of my old PCs internals

can you see any internal damage?

the power connection - look ok?

Duffman wrote:

the power connection - look ok?

Yes

Duffman wrote:

I don't know if it'll make any difference but I'll upload some pics of my old PCs internals

can you see any internal damage?

Actually, I can't spot any obvious damage from the pics. Not right away anyway.

I still think its just the PSU (and that it hopefully did not take the board with it). Since it is busted anyway, you might as well open the PSU and see if anything is obviously busted in there.

Where are the missing screws?
I can see there are standoffs under the holes.

Some of those caps look like OST (probably RLX series). IQ are a rebranded OST.
OST are known to fail without bloating. Asus loved them. I see at least one that looks just a bit puffy.
Puffy = area between the stamp bars looks swollen. Sometimes that means it's just starting to bloat.
Hard to tell in a photo though.
.

.

In my experience capacitor problems are relatively gradual - the PC will start locking up and misbehaving long before it won't power on completely. Since the machine stopped working the instant it was moved, my money is on mildly oxidised connectors. I have this problem very frequently, especially when the hardware hasn't been moved for a long time.

The solution is to simply remove every single card, CPU, stick of ram, etc. and reinsert it, two or three times each. This usually returns the connections to good working order and everything boots. I find RAM sticks especially troublesome for this.

If you happen to have any "electrical contact cleaner" you can spray that onto the contacts and into the sockets as well. It works fantastically well and keeps them going for much longer than they would otherwise. I use CT-CC350 aerosol and it's fantastic.

Malvineous wrote:

In my experience capacitor problems are relatively gradual - the PC will start locking up and misbehaving long before it won't power on completely. Since the machine stopped working the instant it was moved, my money is on mildly oxidised connectors. I have this problem very frequently, especially when the hardware hasn't been moved for a long time.

If those are indeed OST as I suspect then how much money would you like to put on it?
In my experience caps fail gradually only about 85% of the time.
Also when a board is misbehaving and it has OST caps on it, bad caps is almost a given.
A system working perfectly one day then not booting the next is not a common caps failure scenario but it's not that uncommon either.
- It's happened to me personally with my own gear.
When I moved from Ca to Az I had two systems fail as so.
Worked fine. Shut them off to move. Once I got around to them at the other end (about 2 weeks) they wouldn't boot.
Turned out they both failed due to bad Chemicon KZG caps. None were bloated, they just quit.
(KZG behave so similarly to OST they might as well be the same caps.)
I replaced all the KZG with Ruby MBZ and both systems came back 100%.

I agree about oxidized connectors. That absolutely happens.

Malvineous wrote:

The solution is to simply remove every single card, CPU, stick of ram, etc. and reinsert it, two or three times each. This usually returns the connections to good working order and everything boots. I find RAM sticks especially troublesome for this.

Another reason to do that is to find missing screws or other stray metal whatevers. (Considering it has been moved around.)
Everything should come out including the motherboard and drives. Then give the empty case a shake-bump or two.
May be nothing there but if you don't check and there is you are looking at permanent damage.

Malvineous wrote:

If you happen to have any "electrical contact cleaner" you can spray that onto the contacts and into the sockets as well. It works fantastically well and keeps them going for much longer than they would otherwise. I use CT-CC350 aerosol and it's fantastic.

Not a bad idea.

I've taken everything apart, and moved everything over to a new PC case, along with the new PSU I got

Unfirtunately, still nothing happens when I push the power button,
I would assume I'm unlucky and the motherboard is broken?

Do I have any options for how I might be able to repair it?

Describe "nothing happens" in a little more detail.
PSU & fan - nothing, kick or start?
CPU fan - nothing, kick or start?
Any beeps? (If you don't have a system speaker then get or borrow one.)
Any lights flash or come on?
Drive(s) spin up?

What are the brand and series of the caps?

Does the chipset (or any other chips) have shinny spots, pits or cracks?
Shinny spots and pits can indicate they partially melted inside.

Have you tried minimal mode - single CPU with minimum RAM and nothing beyond the bare minimum installed or connected?
That includes disconnecting drives and their power too. I once saw a shorted drive motor completely kill a system.
.

Literally nothing - it's as if I didn't even push the power button,
no lights turn on, fans don't even spin

PSU & fan - nothing
CPU fan - nothing
Any beeps? nope
Any lights flash or come on? nope
Drive(s) spin up? nope

I didn't notice anything when I was moving it, I'll take another look

I've tried without the drives connected, but not without the CPUs, RAM or graphics

Shouldn't it at least be able to spin the fans? I don't even get that
maybe I'm doing something horribly wrong

.
Looking at the below from your manual and your second photo it looks like you have the power switch connected to the wrong pins.
There should be an unused pin between the power and reset switch connectors.
.

OK,

It's late,
I'll go fix that tomorrow and let you know what happens.

PCBONEZ wrote:

. Looking at the below from your manual and your second photo it looks like you have the power switch connected to the wrong pin […]
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.
Looking at the below from your manual and your second photo it looks like you have the power switch connected to the wrong pins.
There should be an unused pin between the power and reset switch connectors.
.

Wrong_Conn.jpg

Wel spotted!

And actually, the second pic seems to be wired totally different. In both pics (old case and new case), if I see it correctly, the speaker isn't connected at all, which makes troubleshooting unnecessarily difficult.

And the earlier pic with a couple mounting screws unused, if one if to solve this kind of problems with this kind of 'unmeticulousness', one will continuously steer towards the wrong direction

Tetrium wrote:

Wel spotted! […]
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PCBONEZ wrote:

. Looking at the below from your manual and your second photo it looks like you have the power switch connected to the wrong pin […]
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.
Looking at the below from your manual and your second photo it looks like you have the power switch connected to the wrong pins.
There should be an unused pin between the power and reset switch connectors.
.

Wrong_Conn.jpg

Wel spotted!

And actually, the second pic seems to be wired totally different. In both pics (old case and new case), if I see it correctly, the speaker isn't connected at all, which makes troubleshooting unnecessarily difficult.

And the earlier pic with a couple mounting screws unused, if one if to solve this kind of problems with this kind of 'unmeticulousness', one will continuously steer towards the wrong direction

Yeah. I noticed the wire color change between pics. Just figured he was experimenting.

A lot of newer cases come without speakers anymore assuming the motherboard has one.
When both don't you have to get one of those stupid 4-pin things with a speaker hanging off of it or scavenge one from another case.
.

OK I moved it across by 1 pin,

tried power button - still get nothing, no fans spinning or anything

I tried to look for a speaker cable with this case, I don't know if this case has a speaker
The case is a CM Storm Scout (the first model)

So do you think the motherboard is dead?

Duffman wrote:

So do you think the motherboard is dead?

Not this soon.
Not if PSU is acting stone dead.
Usually the PSU will at least kick even with a dead mobo.

Duffman wrote:

tried power button - still get nothing, no fans spinning or anything

May have a bad switch.
Disconnect the switch and see if it will start by shorting across the two pins with a metal object. (Screwdriver, knife blade, paper clip.)
.

hmm, just to be sure, you switch the psu on again on the back?

sorry did not read the complete thread.