boxpressed wrote on 2020-03-15, 01:26:

Been a couple of years since I printed off some labels for organizing my loose card collection. Most cards fit in a standard Ata […]
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Been a couple of years since I printed off some labels for organizing my loose card collection. Most cards fit in a standard Atari 2600-size clear box protector (some need a slightly-longer Intellivision-size). All cards in anti-static bags. Got about three bins full of loose video and sound cards. Very handy for grabbing the card you need.

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very nice :3
I should have done that, splitting my labels up.

Re: drilling out the solder shut through-hole for capacitors. I do same but had drills as part of my watch and clock repair hobby, got the pin vise and one drill from the stand and that get done nicely. I use same to drill through to the sleeve bearing of fans that cannot be taken apart and inject oil through this hole. Works great.

Back in the day, I had a motherboard with one of IC real hot so I made a copper plate with oval opening for the crystal and preformed with mounting holes using the motherboard's mounting holes and a thermal pad. Worked great. This was on a Athlon mothrboard.

Cheers,

brownk wrote on 2020-03-15, 00:57:

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Looked out for a single 2-inch high bronze heatsink, but was coward into settling with ones for GPU .

Installed two of these cuties on P2B HIP6019BCB.

I'll check how hot this and other MOSFETs get as my P3S runs in full throttle.

I'll prolly end up installing heatsinks all over the places.

Btw, it always is quite a thrill to watch contemporary meets classic before your eyes.

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

Horun wrote on 2020-03-14, 23:26:

flupke11 wrote on 2020-03-14, 21:25:

As a complete soldering amateur, I could not get all the solder out of the holes, I made my own minidrill from a fine screw driver. It's probably not the proper way to remove solder, but unorthodoxy is not a sin in my religion.

Nice ! Good thinking and I may try that method too.

It's extremely easy to damage the copper plating or annular ring of the through hole with a drill bit. I'd highly advise against it, else you could cause an unintended open circuit. It is very risky on multilayer boards. It is far safer (and actually easier) just to use a solder sucker.

Jed118 wrote on 2020-03-14, 06:33:

VIGOROUS heat gun application to remove the old socket from the board!

You over did it with the heat gun. Some of the traces on the green side of the PCB are visibly deformed due to excessive heat. Next time you shold use soldering station with copper wire or desoldering station to remove the socket. Just and advice 😀

Turbo -> wrote on 2020-03-15, 11:06:

Jed118 wrote on 2020-03-14, 06:33:

VIGOROUS heat gun application to remove the old socket from the board!

You over did it with the heat gun. Some of the traces on the green side of the PCB are visibly deformed due to excessive heat. Next time you shold use soldering station with copper wire or desoldering station to remove the socket. Just and advice 😀

Oh yes, I know that! I needed a stun setting, I used kill. Fortunately the device survived. Next time I will use the lower setting, and/or soldering pump.

This is why I don't use heat guns on motherboards - this particular set of speakers was in unknown condition (and continues to have issues, unrelated to this) so at the end of it, if it works, awesome. If not, binned.

I used pin vise to hold jeweller's drill, NOT with a electric drill. And drilled by hand, making sure it is 90 degrees from horizontal plane, and centered, the drill is smaller than the through hole and just large enough for the new capacitor leads to pass through.

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

Vegge wrote on 2020-03-14, 20:34:

I took a break from the machines on two wheels to fix some machines. So over a few days I have repaired and cleaned two Amiga 50 […]
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I took a break from the machines on two wheels to fix some machines. So over a few days I have repaired and cleaned two Amiga 500s, one regular and one plusmodel.
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And this morning I replaced a RAM-chip on an early VIC-20, and then the same fix on an C64 breadbin. But sadly the SID-chip is dead on the C64.

And while the iron was hot I also soldered up an Pi1541 to try out.
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Almost forgot. Some time ago I cleaned up this PC 10-III. I don't have any keyboard to try it out, but someday.
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It's nice to lighten the mind and clearing up some space since these machines has been lying in parts all over the place.

Sweet....
Regarding the SID. Then you can always find one on eBay. The question are only, if it is worth it.
Else you can get an FPGA-SID or you can get the cheaper and not so good SwinSID-Nano.

wiretap wrote on 2020-03-15, 10:57:

It's extremely easy to damage the copper plating or annular ring of the through hole with a drill bit. I'd highly advise against it, else you could cause an unintended open circuit. It is very risky on multilayer boards. It is far safer (and actually easier) just to use a solder sucker.

Do not underestimate my lack of abilities. I tried the solder sucker, but it is clear I need more time to practice my repair skills.
Of all the holes I drilled, only one annular ring visibly got damaged. It is too crude a way, I concur, but lack of time (and skills) makes sloppy work.

I still need to test the board thoroughly before any assessment of possible damage can be drawn.

H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

brownk wrote on 2020-03-15, 23:38:

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point. […]
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H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

I added small heatsinks to many parts like that on different boards just because they did run hotter than expected. Better safe than early failure 😁

brostenen wrote on 2020-03-15, 20:45:

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

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Aaaah! Nice! I've had numerous VIC-20s' plastic mounting poles turn to dust so this is an interesting solution.

Horun wrote on 2020-03-16, 01:48:

I added small heatsinks to many parts like that on different boards just because they did run hotter than expected. Better safe than early failure 😁

Same here. Better safe than sorry. 😉

Fixed a Soyo SY-6BA motherboard today, was having issues. Then went on to test some older SCSI HD's and found one in the stack with NW5 beta from 1997. Drive works great and thought would share some pics. At one time in late 90's we ran Netware but thought all the old drives were long gone. Flash from the past: IBM WDS-3200 200Mb scsi drive:

brownk wrote on 2020-03-15, 23:38:

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point. […]
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H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-15, 07:27:

Does the HIP6019BCB even get hot? As from datasheet, it is only the controller for the voltage. The real current, and thus power dissipation, would be in the MOS-FETs right behind it ..?

That's what I thought, but a lot of folks back in early 2000 posts said the HIP6019BCB was the failure point.

There are two more HIP6019BCB variants ASUS used back in the days, and they are all discontinued.
If repair or replacement isn't to be all that costly and time-consuming, I'd add heatsinks only to MOSFETs.
ATM, however, I'm tired of sourcing discontinued components, and not taking chances.

I'll soon be adding heatsink to the two MOSFETs around the voltage controller anyway.

Thanks for clarifying, it makes sense now 😀

H3nrik V! wrote on 2020-03-16, 06:34:

Thanks for clarifying, it makes sense now 😀

Actually, I owe you a thank you; I now can be sure my initial conjecture wasn't all that faulty.

😀

liqmat wrote on 2020-03-16, 01:57:

brostenen wrote on 2020-03-15, 20:45:

The screwholes for mounting the keyboard inside my C64 case were worn out. So I cut off some of the plastic, and glued in some brass standoff's, using epoxy glue and covering the both the plastic and the brass standoff's with some more epoxy glue. Now I have to wait at least 24 hours, before I can begin to re-assemble my Breadbin.

C64-KeyboardFix-01.jpg
C64-KeyboardFix-02.jpg

Aaaah! Nice! I've had numerous VIC-20s' plastic mounting poles turn to dust so this is an interesting solution.

Thanks.
I have done the three ones in advance, that are those you that holds the case together. When the epoxy are hardened, i will use the plastic that I cut off, to make a thick plastic cement. For that I will dissolve the plastic in a tiny bit of acetone. Then coat the standoffs with it, to strenghten it even further.

A few days ago, fixed an IBM Aptiva 486 mainboard (with a proprietary power supply connector in addition to the standard AT plug) to boot again using an ATX power supply (+ ATX-to-AT converter) thanks to this useful Vogons thread: Re: IBM pc 330 450dx2 PSU questions (including pics)

Got a copy of MS-DOS 6.22, as well as a mail-in order copy of Lemmings 2, and a USB floppy drive for backing up floppy disk files (so I can use them in a floppy drive emulator I have installed in one of my old computers.

Additionally bought an Aureal Vortex 2 card for an old computer I have laying around.