AkBKukU wrote:

Thinking about it the concept for a little longer though, this time I would like to have the original caps, or at least and approximation, on this card. I will go ahead and add the ones you linked to my mouser cart. I'm going to start looking at the OS-CON caps for ones that seem to closely match the 100uF and 470uF on there.

G-Luxon was acquired by Teapo 2005 but production of that series continued.
http://www.teapo.com/WebSiteFile/Products/Pro … uct_Data/SV.pdf
They didn't even change the look much.
I don't know of any retail sources for Teapo though.
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[Edit]
'Spose I should'a said..... Mouser, Digikey and Newark all carry OS-CON now.
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gdjacobs wrote:

PCBONEZ wrote:

I would not use Tantalums. I may be misinformed and I'm definitely biased. I have never even ordered one as far as I can rememb […]
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I would not use Tantalums. I may be misinformed and I'm definitely biased. I have never even ordered one as far as I can remember.
They were used on older motherboards but they fell out of use because (so I read) they don't handle ripple very well.
- And most if not all of those 10uF are specifically for ripple.
Tantalums are still used in laptops but laptop power bricks are a different animal than ATX PSUs.
They are supposedly good for hi frequency signal coupling but but I never work with that.
There are/were 3 types. 2 dry and 1 wet. If the wet ones leaked they leaked some nasty acid that eats right through PCB materials.
-

IIRC, Panasonic is recommending direct conversion to poly for all Tantalum applications now.

Does not surprise me. The wind has kinda been blowin' that way for a while.
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Refreshing my memory on Tantalum I found this....

Failure mode
Tantalum capacitors have a potentially dangerous failure mode. In case of voltage spikes, the tantalum anode may come in contact with the manganese dioxide cathode, and if the energy of the spike is sufficient it may start a chemical reaction. This chemical reaction produces heat and is self-sustaining and may produce smoke and flame. To prevent this thermal runaway from happening, external failsafe circuitry such as current limiters and thermal fuses should be used in conjunction with tantalum capacitors.

Read more http://www.capacitorguide.com/tantalum-capacitor/

I definitely would not use them in a circuit not originally designed for them. (No current limiting.)

I've only ever had one Tantalum fail on me, but it didn't go quietly. If I hadn't pulled power it probably would have gotten to flames.

Here's what I'm going to go with for the Voodoo 5: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/Project … ssID=60625a2313
10uF 16V: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-EEE-FK1C100R
100uF 16V: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-16SVPS100M
470uF 16V: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-16SVPE470M

I'm also going to get some extra 10uFs and some 22uF ( https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-EEE-HD1C220AR ) to do those Voodoo 3s
I've also got a Voodoo 4 that needs some caps so more 10uFs and a 47uF ( https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UCD1C470MCL1GS )

I'm going to compare price + shipping against digikey on those parts(if digikey has them) to see where I can get them here the quickest.

EDIT: Parts ordered. Priority mail so I should have them in two days.

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I finally ID'ed the larger original caps for certain.
I forgot this card was made in 2000. At that time OS-CON was still owned by Sanyo.
So dug up the old Sanyo datasheets.
At that time (Y2K) Sanyo only made one series that matches up to those caps. = SVP.

Specs of the originals
100uF 16v ESR=0.035 Ripple=2670
470uF 6.3v ESR=0.025 Ripple=3700

For future reference when you just see a 6 for voltage on an SMD cap it means 6.3v.
Some brands do that to save space.
Using a 16v won't hurt anything.
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I got the new caps from mouser in today and swapped them out. It was a complete success!

So for future reference, here is a mouser cart to get all the caps: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/Project … ssID=60625a2313 (I like extra so there's more than you need)

PCBONEZ, thank you for your help with this. I probably would have arrived at recapping it but I don't think I would have been able to find the perfect parts without your help.

AWESOME! - Congrats!
And you are welcome.

Thank you for being a pioneer on this and taking it all the way to the end.
Too many people give up early and ignore the small caps. - They can matter.
Hopefully others will see this and some Voodoos will be saved from the bin.
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Awesome news! Great work, nice to see it working again. With great interest I have followed this thread, as I have a similar problem. I'm about to recap the card but I'm having a setback.

These caps are glued to the pcb, as you yourself have seen. How did you take them off? I have no problem desoldering the old caps as long as they're not glued to the board.

Just asking, don't want to mess things up now. On a side note maybe I'll try the card out with only c90 recapped.

This is the topic I started btw: Voodoo 5 5500 AGP freezes PC

Edit: I have seen some YouTube videos where they used pliers to cut the capacitor in half (this seems a shitty idea). Another video had a guy grabbing the capacitor and rotating them to remove them. I've tried this on a spare broken other pcb and it did work.

Any other methods or tips?

I would heat up one side of the the capacitor and try to tip it towards the cold side. Be careful that you only push on it when the solder is fully melted or else you could rip off the pads underneath. If you can get it lifted up just a little on one side I would stick tweezers under it to prevent it from going back down and to give you a point to push up from. You can also use the tweezers underneath it to break the surface tension of the solder if it sticks to the cap as you lift it.

Also I highly recommend adding lead solder to the pins of all the caps before you remove any of them. The lead free solder on them from the factory has a much higher melting point so it is more difficult to work with. Adding lead solder will dilute the lead free stuff and lower the melting temperature. If you have flux put it on before the lead solder to encourage them to mix better.

@ Justin1091
There are a number of different ways.
These may be easiest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEhYVyXYU9c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMMT1qLMX28 <<< I would use pliers, not fingers...
.. Or maybe push with a screwdriver.

This works but is a bit scary until you get used to it. Practice on a scrap board first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYHX-OF2WPc
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Thanks for the tips guys, I'm sure I'll get them off now.
I did replace the c90 and it didn't work, so when I have time I'll do them all.

Will return to my own forum topic again, will post questions and/or updates there.

A disappointing update.I was unable to work on this computer for about a month and after coming back to it I've found that the Voodoo 5 has reverted to not turning on. It has the same symptoms it originally had where the fans all kick and then the system shuts off.

There still appears to be electrolytic fluid on the PCB so I'm more aggressively attempting to clean that off. But no matter how many times I scrub it with 91% isopropyl there is always some left. I'm considering getting a dish and soaking the card in isopropyl for a few hours hoping that it will finally release the electrolytic fluid. In general I'm not fond of the idea of putting PCBs in a dishwasher like so many people recommend. But I'm really not thrilled with the idea of putting a poorly mounted dual BGA device in there. I would be concerned that the thermal or mechanical shock of the machine could break some balls loose.

Right now I'm letting the card dry after rinsing it off with 70% iso followed by scrubbing with 91%. Even if it works after that, I don't think this is going to be the end of the problems.

EDIT0: The rinse and scrub did not work. I'm setting up to soak the card now. I'm going to pay attention to keep the fill level below the thermal adhesive holding the heatsinks to the chips.

EDIT1:
I soaked the card for 2.5hrs in a pan with it covered to minimized evaporation.

https://imgur.com/f4QAYxd.jpg

After that I noticed that the fluid had yellowed

https://imgur.com/DoLkaet.jpg

Finally I put the card back in the motherboard and it is working again now. Hopefully that is the last of the problems I have with this card.

Do the card still work good? I have no problem with my Voodoo5 5500 but I wonder if it's a good idea to recap it before the capacitors start to leak?

Delerium wrote on 2021-05-10, 21:29:

Do the card still work good? I have no problem with my Voodoo5 5500 but I wonder if it's a good idea to recap it before the capacitors start to leak?

Yes, it is a good idea.
Degrading capacitors put extra stress on the transistors in the V5500's VRM circuitry. If they fail short they will pass +12V directly into the chips. It's not a good idea to wait for the capacitors to visibly fail before replacing them.

Does anyone know the values of the Tantalum capacitors on a PCI Voodoo 5500? High res photo: http://www.tdfx.de/pic/voodoomac_5500_01b.JPG

Many have a large 56 written on them, another has 470. Would that be 56uf and 470uf?