Have you done the measurement bloodem suggested? (checking if the "-" side of the capacitor still is connected to ground.)

Here is a picture where you can find ground.

measure continuity from one point at the bottom to one of your capacitors.
It will have direct connection if it is working.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:50:

Have you done the measurement bloodem suggested? (checking if the "-" side of the capacitor still is connected to ground.) […]
Show full quote

Have you done the measurement bloodem suggested? (checking if the "-" side of the capacitor still is connected to ground.)

Here is a picture where you can find ground.
ground.JPG
measure continuity from one point at the bottom to one of your capacitors.
It will have direct connection if it is working.

I didnt know hoy to do it, thanks for the info, im going to do it right now.

you have answered my question, if it dosnt have ground i can solder a wire to any other grounded point

Ydee wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:38:

Here you have picture to help you understand the composition of multilayer PCBs. The holes tend to be metalplated and connected to other layers inside the PCB, making it possible to stack several independent electrical schematics on top of each other to create isolated and interconnected circuits.

Thanks for the info.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:50:

Have you done the measurement bloodem suggested? (checking if the "-" side of the capacitor still is connected to ground.) […]
Show full quote

Have you done the measurement bloodem suggested? (checking if the "-" side of the capacitor still is connected to ground.)

Here is a picture where you can find ground.
ground.JPG
measure continuity from one point at the bottom to one of your capacitors.
It will have direct connection if it is working.

Done.

I dont know how to use the polimeter (dont laught im here to work and do whatever is needed 🤣) , so i place ohm section and if you mean with continuity just have a lecture, yes all the point has, they do differents things with the numbers that i cant understand, sometimes it end on 0 but moving the section (200-2000) etc it gets lecture.

I took another soldered point to the ground to get the lecture.

EDIT: i contacted one guy becaise i though, okey maybe is better to call someone, he said 45 bucks per hour but he was an idiot who wanted to mess with me saying "if I have to repair a track"(when i said clearly is the ground) and he told me who charged me for chenge 3 capacitors 45 bucks (i have 17 left) jajajaja.
I think, at this point, is better to continue changing all of them and then, if i need to solder cables to another ground point ill do it, is just a cable.

What do you think?

Damn... that board is as good as dead. 🤣
Seriously, I'm not one to usually say "Google it", but I do believe this is one of those rare occasions where it's totally called for: https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=multimeter+continuity+test

If your Multimeter has a beep mode (if you connect both probes to each other it will beep) use this. Beeping mode uses a symbol similar to a musical note or a "wifi signal".
If you only have resistance (ohm) mode the reading schould be around 0.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-04, 14:57:

Damn... that board is as good as dead. 🤣
Seriously, I'm not one to usually say "Google it", but I do believe this is one of those rare occasions where it's totally called for: https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=multimeter+continuity+test

How can it be dead if i get lecture? (I tested it last night after changing 7 capacitors and it worked), yes i forgot to check internet...I was too much immersed in the subject and I didn't realize.

My polimeter is very very basic, i dont think it makes any sound but im going to check the manual.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 15:01:

If your Multimeter has a beep mode (if you connect both probes to each other it will beep) use this. Beeping mode uses a symbol similar to a musical note or a "wifi signal".
If you only have resistance (ohm) mode the reading schould be around 0.

Im going to check this.

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-04, 14:57:

Damn... that board is as good as dead. 🤣
Seriously, I'm not one to usually say "Google it", but I do believe this is one of those rare occasions where it's totally called for: https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=multimeter+continuity+test

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 15:01:

If your Multimeter has a beep mode (if you connect both probes to each other it will beep) use this. Beeping mode uses a symbol similar to a musical note or a "wifi signal".
If you only have resistance (ohm) mode the reading schould be around 0.

Okey now is really done.

My multimeter has only one mode "diodes and test continuity", it has something like "test isgnal" (putting 5v if understood correctly, but i dont think is this one).
About this test it said: if the resistance is less than 50ohm is going to beep.

Al has done the beep in the - side of the capacitors with a resistance of 0.002, and in the other side (+) 365ma for all of them instead on the ones i didnt already replace, it says something like 800-900 etc (depends)

What i dont understand, if you said that "giant gold trace" is the ground, sometimes is in the + side, other times in - side.

To me this is good, is not dead.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 15:33:

Okey now is really done. […]
Show full quote

Okey now is really done.

My multimeter has only one mode "diodes and test continuity", it has something like "test isgnal" (putting 5v if understood correctly, but i dont think is this one).
About this test it said: if the resistance is less than 50ohm is going to beep.

Al has done the beep in the - side of the capacitors with a resistance of 0.002, and in the other side (+) 365ma for all of them instead on the ones i didnt already replace, it says something like 800-900 etc (depends)

What i dont understand, if you said that "giant gold trace" is the ground, sometimes is in the + side, other times in - side.

Its not always a ground trace. Sometimes it is something different. But in your case the one we are talking about is ground.

Of course you will measure something different if you measure other pins then ground. Dont try everything at once. Stay with the things we said.
0.002 is fine from ground to ground. it is good enough for this measurement.

Yes diode mode is often the same position as beep mode. Thats ok.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:21:

In case that is ground they can be grounded by another point of the motherboard?, or it has to be obligatorily connected to that track next to the condenser? (repair the track)

Ground connections need to be as short as possible so just remove a bit of the coating next to the capacitor pin and solder the copper directly with the capacitor´s negative pin.

By the way I`m not that pessimistic here. There are 4 small traces from ground to each pin and it´s very unlikely you destroyed all 4 of them.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:58:

you have answered my question, if it dosnt have ground i can solder a wire to any other grounded point

no, because impedance of such connection will be huge. What you can do is scrape remaining ground connected copper near destroyed pads and flow more solder over it.
🍿

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 16:13:

Its not always a ground trace. Sometimes it is something different. But in your case the one we are talking about is ground. […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 15:33:

Okey now is really done. […]
Show full quote

Okey now is really done.

My multimeter has only one mode "diodes and test continuity", it has something like "test isgnal" (putting 5v if understood correctly, but i dont think is this one).
About this test it said: if the resistance is less than 50ohm is going to beep.

Al has done the beep in the - side of the capacitors with a resistance of 0.002, and in the other side (+) 365ma for all of them instead on the ones i didnt already replace, it says something like 800-900 etc (depends)

What i dont understand, if you said that "giant gold trace" is the ground, sometimes is in the + side, other times in - side.

Its not always a ground trace. Sometimes it is something different. But in your case the one we are talking about is ground.

Of course you will measure something different if you measure other pins then ground. Dont try everything at once. Stay with the things we said.
0.002 is fine from ground to ground. it is good enough for this measurement.

Yes diode mode is often the same position as beep mode. Thats ok.

DerBaum wrote on 2022-08-04, 16:13:

Its not always a ground trace. Sometimes it is something different. But in your case the one we are talking about is ground. […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 15:33:

Okey now is really done. […]
Show full quote

Okey now is really done.

My multimeter has only one mode "diodes and test continuity", it has something like "test isgnal" (putting 5v if understood correctly, but i dont think is this one).
About this test it said: if the resistance is less than 50ohm is going to beep.

Al has done the beep in the - side of the capacitors with a resistance of 0.002, and in the other side (+) 365ma for all of them instead on the ones i didnt already replace, it says something like 800-900 etc (depends)

What i dont understand, if you said that "giant gold trace" is the ground, sometimes is in the + side, other times in - side.

Its not always a ground trace. Sometimes it is something different. But in your case the one we are talking about is ground.

Of course you will measure something different if you measure other pins then ground. Dont try everything at once. Stay with the things we said.
0.002 is fine from ground to ground. it is good enough for this measurement.

Yes diode mode is often the same position as beep mode. Thats ok.

Thank you for clarify this andr you patience, really helpful 😀 , im going test the pc right now but i think it will run for sure, if you think that i have to check something just say.

majestyk wrote on 2022-08-04, 16:14:

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:21:

In case that is ground they can be grounded by another point of the motherboard?, or it has to be obligatorily connected to that track next to the condenser? (repair the track)

Ground connections need to be as short as possible so just remove a bit of the coating next to the capacitor pin and solder the copper directly with the capacitor´s negative pin.

By the way I`m not that pessimistic here. There are 4 small traces from ground to each pin and it´s very unlikely you destroyed all 4 of them.

What a surprise that no one said that, just ironic.

Being honest, i worked in contruction building very heavy and light metal structures, i have done an electrode welder course and if i explane you how to operate to me is pretty simple, ill tell you how you have to use the machine (intensity depends the electrode etc) and >how the material works<, if you through too much intensity to a very thin metal youll makes holes or whatever, is pretty basic, agree right?

So i was thinking now about this, how is possible that i search a lot of info, tips, newbie fails etc and now one, literally no one spoke about the ground traces, they are pretty easy to blow. do not want to teach in detail?.(perhaps worried that they will lose their jobs)

So anyway, thanks for everyone helped me, it has helped me a lot, most of the people here have helped me a lot, is a good place.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-04, 16:17:

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 13:58:

you have answered my question, if it dosnt have ground i can solder a wire to any other grounded point

no, because impedance of such connection will be huge. What you can do is scrape remaining ground connected copper near destroyed pads and flow more solder over it.
🍿

Ah okey, i see, so if i scratch very carefully those "ground traces" i can find the copper?, I thought about it, it is very thin didn't try in case i destroy it.

"all that golden ground" is one layer right?, i mean, is just an unique point of conection not a lot inside of it right?

Without it still having ground, probably there is a reason to have more than 1 like Majestik said, but is working, if i can repare it ill do it, but it still having ground, otherwise when i connect the computer it would not have started surely

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

So i was thinking now about this, how is possible that i search a lot of info, tips, newbie fails etc and now one, literally no one spoke about the ground traces, they are pretty easy to blow. do not want to teach in detail?.(perhaps worried that they will lose their jobs)

because ground traces are the toughest to destroy 😮 Copper melts at 1000C, the only way to destroy a trace is
-set the iron to >400C and/or hold it for too long, cook the glue holding the trace, and then scrape at it
-rip it off by not melting all of the solder and pulling on something

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Ah okey, i see, so if i scratch very carefully those "ground traces" i can find the copper?, I thought about it, it is very thin didn't try in case i destroy it.

the yellow stuff is copper covered by paint, you can scrape paint and uncover copper. Just make triple sure you re reconnecting stuff that was previously connected and not making new creative connections 😀

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

"all that golden ground" is one layer right?, i mean, is just an unique point of conection not a lot inside of it right?

no, there are multiple layers inside, 4 at the minimum, but as long as you didnt destroy the vias (hole plating) its all good

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Without it still having ground, probably there is a reason to have more than 1 like Majestik said, but is working, if i can repare it ill do it, but it still having ground, otherwise when i connect the computer it would not have started surely

its more nuanced than that. ground loops, impedance, additional noise. It should be fine as there is bound to be more vias and ground stitching, but in general destroying traces is bad, mkay

all in all its going exactly how I expected 😀

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-04, 22:05:

because ground traces are the toughest to destroy :o Copper melts at 1000C, the only way to destroy a trace is -set the iron to […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

So i was thinking now about this, how is possible that i search a lot of info, tips, newbie fails etc and now one, literally no one spoke about the ground traces, they are pretty easy to blow. do not want to teach in detail?.(perhaps worried that they will lose their jobs)

because ground traces are the toughest to destroy 😮 Copper melts at 1000C, the only way to destroy a trace is
-set the iron to >400C and/or hold it for too long, cook the glue holding the trace, and then scrape at it
-rip it off by not melting all of the solder and pulling on something

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Ah okey, i see, so if i scratch very carefully those "ground traces" i can find the copper?, I thought about it, it is very thin didn't try in case i destroy it.

the yellow stuff is copper covered by paint, you can scrape paint and uncover copper. Just make triple sure you re reconnecting stuff that was previously connected and not making new creative connections 😀

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

"all that golden ground" is one layer right?, i mean, is just an unique point of conection not a lot inside of it right?

no, there are multiple layers inside, 4 at the minimum, but as long as you didnt destroy the vias (hole plating) its all good

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Without it still having ground, probably there is a reason to have more than 1 like Majestik said, but is working, if i can repare it ill do it, but it still having ground, otherwise when i connect the computer it would not have started surely

its more nuanced than that. ground loops, impedance, additional noise. It should be fine as there is bound to be more vias and ground stitching, but in general destroying traces is bad, mkay

all in all its going exactly how I expected 😀

Hello again.

For the first time im not going to be agree with you 🤣, if you tell me the temperature limit I would never have passed it, I could have looked for it too but despite myself, you said that my soldering iron would be insufficient and you talked about using the heat gun, but i bough a better one, so I thought that the gun was not necessary, now I have understood the reason.

Anyway going to the matter.

About the "gold ground trace", i think we are speaking about different things, is not really clear to me.
I know the board has 4 laters, but my question is about the "the golden trace layer" on the surface (the one i fucked up close to the capacitors), i want to know if this ground layer on the surface is just an unique big piece of copper or inside it has many traces (each one to connect different points to ground)

Why i ask you this, because i want to know if close each capacitor is there an specific ground trace for it (and i have to find it under the paint) or i can scrach anywhere around close the capacitor's circle to connect it to the copper.

About "youll know what will happens 😀 " I don't think it's the most appropriate comment, the same as the previous one that just came in to laugh saying "the board is dead" (working right now), so please, dont go in that way, remember that we all learn about different subjects and we all need patience to learn, I can do the same with you with my work.
And I'm never gonna hear a guy like the other one saying "you shouldn't be doing that", It's ridiculous to say that to a person who has worked all his life with his hands, I don't see this as something impossible to do, I just see it as something else to learn how to do it, thats all.

without bad intention but I don't like to see it,thanks anyway for the help.

Have a nice weekend.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

For the first time im not going to be agree with you 🤣, if you tell me the temperature limit I would never have passed it, I could have looked for it too but despite myself, you said that my soldering iron would be insufficient and you talked about using the heat gun, but i bough a better one, so I thought that the gun was not necessary, now I have understood the reason.

I talked about preheating. How much heat are we talking here? lets hope you didnt evaporate connections inside the board

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

I know the board has 4 laters

or 6

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

, but my question is about the "the golden trace layer" on the surface (the one i fucked up close to the capacitors), i want to know if this ground layer on the surface is just an unique big piece of copper or inside it has many traces (each one to connect different points to ground)

yes and no. Ground is in many traces all over the board, but you cant just cut it somewhere and then jumper from the other side of the board because 'ground loops, impedance, additional noise'
Its not a flashlight where just mere fact battery contacts are wired to bulb means it will work fine. Its more nuanced than that, how the connection is laid out is just as important. None of this would matter if you practiced and could perform replacement without ripping traces. We are at the 'oops I stripped hole in an aluminum engine block', now.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

Why i ask you this, because i want to know if close each capacitor is there an specific ground trace for it (and i have to find it under the paint) or i can scrach anywhere around close the capacitor's circle to connect it to the copper.

you can scratch in your red squares around sticking capacitor legs

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

dont go in that way, remember that we all learn about different subjects and we all need patience to learn, I can do the same with you with my work.
And I'm never gonna hear a guy like the other one saying "you shouldn't be doing that", It's ridiculous to say that to a person who has worked all his life with his hands, I don't see this as something impossible to do, I just see it as something else to learn how to do it, thats all.

Did you learn welding on your very own brand new car, or clients expensive truck? I did on some scraps and old bicycle frame. This is why I suggested you do the same. Its not schadenfreude, its disappointment.
Nobody wants to be that lady https://theworld.org/stories/2012-08-25/amate … -painting-spain 😀
Its ok, you will bodge connection to those caps, hopefully not damage anything else and board will work just fine minus aesthetics.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-04, 22:05:

because ground traces are the toughest to destroy :o Copper melts at 1000C, the only way to destroy a trace is -set the iron to […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

So i was thinking now about this, how is possible that i search a lot of info, tips, newbie fails etc and now one, literally no one spoke about the ground traces, they are pretty easy to blow. do not want to teach in detail?.(perhaps worried that they will lose their jobs)

because ground traces are the toughest to destroy 😮 Copper melts at 1000C, the only way to destroy a trace is
-set the iron to >400C and/or hold it for too long, cook the glue holding the trace, and then scrape at it
-rip it off by not melting all of the solder and pulling on something

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Ah okey, i see, so if i scratch very carefully those "ground traces" i can find the copper?, I thought about it, it is very thin didn't try in case i destroy it.

the yellow stuff is copper covered by paint, you can scrape paint and uncover copper. Just make triple sure you re reconnecting stuff that was previously connected and not making new creative connections 😀

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

"all that golden ground" is one layer right?, i mean, is just an unique point of conection not a lot inside of it right?

no, there are multiple layers inside, 4 at the minimum, but as long as you didnt destroy the vias (hole plating) its all good

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 21:35:

Without it still having ground, probably there is a reason to have more than 1 like Majestik said, but is working, if i can repare it ill do it, but it still having ground, otherwise when i connect the computer it would not have started surely

its more nuanced than that. ground loops, impedance, additional noise. It should be fine as there is bound to be more vias and ground stitching, but in general destroying traces is bad, mkay

all in all its going exactly how I expected 😀

Thanks for your help again 😀 ,understood what you mean, follow the tracks around the capacitors and dig exactly there (why i called them traces?)
If im not writing here is just because im still in testing the computer, i had a lot of bsod with the sd or sata adapter while enabling UDMA, just i wanted to play some games and test if the board is okey.
memtest ok.

When i enable UDMA there is a stutter problem with the sound at the start of the os and just ocassially while playing etc and i found exactly what is happening, install the IDE driver is equal to BSOD at the start of the os (i manage to dont get that bsod sometimes) and this driver make windows able to recognize the HD and sound problem gone, if it is not recognized windows left as "generic HD type 47" very bad drivers from ALI and probably not being compatible with this adapter, UDMA works with the windows default driver (tested with crystaldiskmark) but not with the ALI one, so the way probably is buy an old HDD.

Instead of this, without dma i just have tested memtest and everything is working good.

Ill post news, thank you again, appreciate your help.

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-08-05, 21:44:

I talked about preheating. How much heat are we talking here? lets hope you didnt evaporate connections inside the board […]
Show full quote

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

For the first time im not going to be agree with you 🤣, if you tell me the temperature limit I would never have passed it, I could have looked for it too but despite myself, you said that my soldering iron would be insufficient and you talked about using the heat gun, but i bough a better one, so I thought that the gun was not necessary, now I have understood the reason.

I talked about preheating. How much heat are we talking here? lets hope you didnt evaporate connections inside the board

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

I know the board has 4 laters

or 6

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

, but my question is about the "the golden trace layer" on the surface (the one i fucked up close to the capacitors), i want to know if this ground layer on the surface is just an unique big piece of copper or inside it has many traces (each one to connect different points to ground)

yes and no. Ground is in many traces all over the board, but you cant just cut it somewhere and then jumper from the other side of the board because 'ground loops, impedance, additional noise'
Its not a flashlight where just mere fact battery contacts are wired to bulb means it will work fine. Its more nuanced than that, how the connection is laid out is just as important. None of this would matter if you practiced and could perform replacement without ripping traces. We are at the 'oops I stripped hole in an aluminum engine block', now.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

Why i ask you this, because i want to know if close each capacitor is there an specific ground trace for it (and i have to find it under the paint) or i can scrach anywhere around close the capacitor's circle to connect it to the copper.

you can scratch in your red squares around sticking capacitor legs

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-05, 19:45:

dont go in that way, remember that we all learn about different subjects and we all need patience to learn, I can do the same with you with my work.
And I'm never gonna hear a guy like the other one saying "you shouldn't be doing that", It's ridiculous to say that to a person who has worked all his life with his hands, I don't see this as something impossible to do, I just see it as something else to learn how to do it, thats all.

Did you learn welding on your very own brand new car, or clients expensive truck? I did on some scraps and old bicycle frame. This is why I suggested you do the same. Its not schadenfreude, its disappointment.
Nobody wants to be that lady https://theworld.org/stories/2012-08-25/amate … -painting-spain 😀
Its ok, you will bodge connection to those caps, hopefully not damage anything else and board will work just fine minus aesthetics.

I have very good news 😀 i didnt damage anything, do you know what was that?, just waste, look.

Is not completely removed in the second photo, is just to show what happened.

Because I had no experience with this material, i saw it and thought it was the material the motherboard is made of, I didnt try to remove it to not damage it more.
My surprise came today when i used a tool to scratch to find the copper and see is just garbage.

Here is the final look 😀

Once i have found a way to extract the lead from the hole is more easy, i have redone all the work, I have removed the ones that I had already mounted before and put new ones and removed those that had not been done before.

To make sure in some holes i followed your tip to scrach a bit to find the copper but it was not necessary in most cases, only 2, but i did it anyway.

what I do to remove the capacitors is add tin to the solder point and play with the termal transference, i dont touch the board, I only play with the tin ball, in a few cases it was necessary to bring the tip closer.

The only problem i had, 2 holes inside looks bad, it was like the tin was messed up & the quality of the lead was very bad, that was strange, one of them the first time gave me a lot of fight.

I worked precise and carefully, honestly i feel very satisfied with the job done, I think it's done very well and now i can do it by myself.

Thanks for your help and same to all the people who came here to help me 😀

I'm going to mount the board right now, I went to the petrol to use the compressor to make sure I don't leave any residue.

Cheers!

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-04, 11:38:

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-08-04, 09:19:

Are these traces? (the gold big one around the capacitors), if they are i blown the board, I know it sounds stupid but I just realized right now about it, far as I know I didnt hit the board with the tip, it may have been from the heat or that I did not realize touching with tin but as far as I know i didnt hit the plate.

However, you really should not be doing this... you'll either further damage the board aesthetically (which you've already done), or you'll end up damaging it completely. 🙁
Search for a service center/computer shop, they could easily replace all the caps for you and I'm sure the cost would be negligible.

"you should not be doing this".

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-09-07, 14:51:

I have very good news :) i didnt damage anything, do you know what was that?, just waste, look. […]
Show full quote

I have very good news 😀 i didnt damage anything, do you know what was that?, just waste, look.

flux from flux core solder 😀 Its there to help with heat transfer, cleaning and anti oxidation. Can be cleaned off (the one in L0 flux core solder usually doesnt have to) with isopropyl alcohol.

👍

rasz_pl wrote on 2022-09-07, 18:04:

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-09-07, 14:51:

I have very good news :) i didnt damage anything, do you know what was that?, just waste, look. […]
Show full quote

I have very good news 😀 i didnt damage anything, do you know what was that?, just waste, look.

flux from flux core solder 😀 Its there to help with heat transfer, cleaning and anti oxidation. Can be cleaned off (the one in L0 flux core solder usually doesnt have to) with isopropyl alcohol.

👍

That makes sense, the core flux dosnt have a lot of fluid so I imagine it will become solid quickly but it seemed that it was a burnt layer surely because I struggled with those points, now it won't happen to me anymore and yes, i used alcohol to clean after.

One last question, in your experience, the solder points in the board always comes perfect from the manufacturer or sometimes is possible to find one that is not so well?, i mean the lead/structure from the inside.

I ask you simply to have a correct information of what i can find in the future.

Thanks!

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-09-07, 20:17:

One last question, in your experience, the solder points in the board always comes perfect from the manufacturer or sometimes is possible to find one that is not so well?, i mean the lead/structure from the inside.

From manufacturer its all fresh copper with no oxidation so joints are almost always perfect. Thru hole components are wave soldered with flux bath


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWH58QrprVc

Brand new properly stored components, cleanliness, preheating, angle and flow of solder ensure perfect joint.

In contrast the fist joint from the top on this picture looks dry, too little temperature and flux, not wetted properly. If a lot of power was going thru it it would start heating up, maybe even end up burned out.

Rocket202 wrote on 2022-09-07, 14:51:

"you should not be doing this".

Yes, and I stand by what I said. 😀

May I remind you:

bloodem wrote on 2022-08-04, 11:38:

[..] you'll either further damage the board aesthetically (which you've already done), or you'll end up damaging it completely. [...]

IMO, the solder job looks terrible and it's a shame for such a nice board...
Don't get me wrong, we've all destroyed some motherboards at some point in our lives, but the idea is to always practice on cheap/dummy boards, instead of doing it on what is arguably a rare and collector's board (I myself have yet to add a Gigabyte GA-5AX to my collection!)