- A Yamaha CD recorder – perfectly matching the original build’s date (1999) - YAMAHA 2200E is the best, F1 models are rare and price impressive

- An LG DVD recorder – later piece (2003) but I think it will get a ticket for this ride - nice but not period correct((( CREATIVE MATSHITA DRX2 or old IDE TOSHIBA series is OK

- A Creative Soundblaster Live 1024 (but maybe an 1st Gen Audigy would be better, but I need to source one) - nice choice, especially with AWE64 digital-mod in pair

I can't remember the exact model of the Yamaha cd right now, but I will get back on this.

I REALLY liked the fact that it has a headphone output with volume control right on the front side!!!

Thanks for the input!!!

Well, I think that the PSU problem is not that easy to solve...

I am reading that currents PSUs are weak on the 5V rail while strong on the 12V, which is the opposite from old ones.

Do you guys think this is an issue with the P3B-F?

Any recommendations?

It's not much of a problem on SLot-1 systems, even with a Katmai, though if you plan on going with a Geforce3 (which is one of the more 5V hungry AGP cards), it wouldn't hurt to get something that can do 120 Watts or more total for the 5-3.3V rail.

Munx wrote on 2023-03-09, 15:30:

It's not much of a problem on SLot-1 systems, even with a Katmai, though if you plan on going with a Geforce3 (which is one of the more 5V hungry AGP cards), it wouldn't hurt to get something that can do 120 Watts or more total for the 5-3.3V rail.

Thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!

So, this Kolink is a somewhat typical current PSU in the mid-price range.

Would you say it is ok to use it?

...and here is a Chieftec Proton...

When you pick a model, look for reviews that show how well it deals with cross-loads (when one rail is being used heavily and the other is not).

These days with networking and large hard drives virtual CD drive are so much better then physical media. You still need something but it doesn't really matter if its CD or DVD as it'll probably rarely get used. If your including both drives to show off the technology then that's a different matter.

You could also get a Audigy 2 ZS, the final card with Win98 support but if you already have the Live! I'd just stick with that as personally I don't find the difference that great.

I wouldn't be so quick to write off the GF3. My dual Katmai 600 only has a GF2 MX and it holds up pretty well but it does have a couple of Voodoo 2 cards as well so will admit some of my games are using glide.

I've a number of both new and old systems using modern Corsair modular PSU's and so far so good even with the weak 5v rail
My thinking was you can remove the useless PCI-E and SATA connectors, and if needed grab the unused 4 pin molex cables from PSU's in newer builds.
Unfortunately Corsair no longer have the 20+4 ATX style connector so will probably start looking at another brand of modular PSU's when I need to start replacing a few PSU's.

Maybe hold off till you have completed the windows side of the build but if your into dos games an ISA sound card of some type would be desirable for dos gaming if that interests you.

Nice points here, thank you!

I will be posting more on the components as I move forward, that's for sure...

I will be using 4 drives tbh. A CD recorder, a DVD writer, a Zip drive and a floppy drive.

Of course not all of them will be working at the same time, but I would like to have them available. I have quite a few zips for example and I want to review my old files.

Dos is not a consideration atm, but I will not rule it out. There is no ISA sound card in my inventory however.

As of now, I need to sort the PSU issue out. Without this nothing will ever work, no progress will happen.

For PSUs, even in retro builds, I make sure to use ones that are at least 80+ Bronze rated.

Seasonic is my brand of choice, but other top-tier brand are fine as well.

The Cheiftec you show doesn't show 80+ of any kind unless that pic is not showing all the specs.

I am not familiar with Kolinc but if it is really 80+ Gold rated (not just a sticker put on there to fool people), then it is probably fine.

Quality modern PSUs are also usually rated for continuous load unlike PSUs from times of yor, when they were rated for temporary maximum load and were also most likely to be rated about twice as much as they could actually deliver at all.

Seasonic is a solid choice!

But they as well have significantly lowered the performance of 3.3 & 5.5 volt rails...

Here is a summary of the Focus PSUs

From what I recall Corsair has quite a few models that still have some good 5V rails, so I'd look into those. The CX650M in my home office PC has quite a beefy 25A 5V rail.

Munx wrote on 2023-03-10, 15:18:

From what I recall Corsair has quite a few models that still have some good 5V rails, so I'd look into those. The CX650M in my home office PC has quite a beefy 25A 5V rail.

I will certainly look into it as well. Thanx a million!

Years ago I bought an ancient, used Enermax 465W with 44 amps on 5v to power old Athlons with excess. You can still easily find them. 😁 Well, at least around the USA.

PIII CPUs are so much lower power that almost anything of quality build is adequate. 20a should be plenty.

swaaye wrote on 2023-03-13, 16:01:

Years ago I bought an ancient, used Enermax 465W with 44 amps on 5v to power old Athlons with excess. You can still easily find them. 😁 Well, at least around the USA.

PIII CPUs are so much lower power that almost anything of quality build is adequate. 20a should be plenty.

20-22 amps are quite easy to find in decent prices and still pretty good quality power supplies...

Stalled project report:

Well, as eager as I am to move forward, I have been forced to wait before things can move...

The case has been handed for a repaint to a neighboring car paint shop, but being a (very) low priority paint job, I have to wait...

I also have two PCI adapters (a PCI to USB2 and a PCI Lan adapter) on order from China. These can take several weeks to arrive.

As far as the PSU goes, I think I will get the Chieftek Polaris, which is a good price/ performance unit, but it has not been purchased yet.

One more decision that is not easy to make is which soundcard to use...

I now have an Audigy 2 and the Soundblaster live 1024/ value to choose from. Reading the forum however I can see that the Audigy is not supported by windows 98, so maybe I'm asking for trouble here... I need to get this clear too...

CENTRAL wrote on 2023-03-17, 09:29:

I now have an Audigy 2 and the Soundblaster live 1024/ value to chose from. Reading the forum however I can see that the Audigy is not supported by windows 98

It is. You can use it with Windows 98 just fine.

Munx wrote on 2023-03-17, 10:13:

CENTRAL wrote on 2023-03-17, 09:29:

I now have an Audigy 2 and the Soundblaster live 1024/ value to chose from. Reading the forum however I can see that the Audigy is not supported by windows 98

It is. You can use it with Windows 98 just fine.

That's good to know. Thank you!