VOGONS


First post, by Kodai

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Hey everybody,

I swear I used the search engine and could not find an answer to this 😊 , so I guess I'll have to create a new topic to ask. I'm pretty much covered on the MS-DOS midi front, as I have a MT-32 old, MT-32 NEW (in the form of an MT-100), CM-32l, SC-55 original first run version, SC-55 MkII, Yamaha TG100, and a Yamaha MU2000EX with a PLG150-DR board, as well as a Yamaha UW500 mixer. I would like to get into Sharp X68000 (don't be scared off by that Mau1wurf1977), and need some info on CM modules. As they tend to be rare and pricey, I would like to avoid getting a CM-64 since I already have a CM-32l. CM-32p's are fairly common and pretty cheap. I was wondering if A) I can midi out/thru port the two together to get CM-64 functionality and B), if so would it be a cleaner sounding option than the CM-64? I ask about the B) option as Mau1wurf1977 has said that the output of the 64 and 500's are not as clean as the single board 32l's. But mainly I want to know about option A) since the Sharp 68000 does indeed make use of the PCM in the CM-64.

Reply 1 of 5, by Mau1wurf1977

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For the 68000 just get a CM-64 😀

There is likely a way to get the CM-32L and CM-32P to work together, but you would have to mix the outputs together and all of that.

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Reply 2 of 5, by Kodai

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Hmmm, I might just have to do that. Would have been nice to save some cash by getting the 32p, so that I could put it towards those funny little sound chips they use, but I think you may be right. Thanks for the opinion though.

On a side note, I'd like to point out something about your video on de-soldering those caps the other day. Yeah, the thinner solder is going to be a big help, and so will using flux (as mentioned in a couple of comments), but you should use a smaller nozel on the de-soldering gun as its outer diameter was more on the PCB than on the pad. By having a smaller tip, the outer diameter of the nozel will make better contact with the solder pad instead and you will have far better thermal transfer and therefore a faster melt. It can also help to add a bit of solder to each joint you are going to de-solder so that the de-soldering gun can get a bit more thermal linkage to the joint.

As for soldering in the new caps, you should always have a bit of solder on the tip of the iron. You never want to try to make a joint with the solder that's on the tip, but you want to use it to make better thermal contact with the joint and the solder helps by making a bridge to the pad, lead, and iron tip. Then use the thinnest solder you can, to make the fresh joint from the opposite side of the lead. Also, I noticed that you were keeping the tip free of all solder before you tried to add a bit. You never ever want your tip to be clean and exposed to the air. Always, always, always, keep a glob of solder on the tip at all times. When you need to make a new joint, just clean it off and put a small bit on to help make the thermal bridge. When you are done and go to store the iron, make sure you put a nice big glob of solder on the tip before you turn it off. That keeps it from oxidizing and killing the tip.

I don't know if your de-soldering nozels wet (as in allowing solder to adhere to the outer surface), but try to keep the tips coated with solder as well. Again, it helps keep them from pitting and oxidizing as well as make better thermal bridges when you go to use them. De-soldering nozels, wear out much faster than soldering iron tips. That's the best way to keep them from dying on you. Hope that helps.

Reply 3 of 5, by Mau1wurf1977

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Cool! Thanks for pointers 😀

Yup the station came with different tips. Will put on a smaller one. I did a video card shortly after, using some of the tips I got and it worked a lot better.

With the finer solder and flux, I think it will be ok.

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Reply 4 of 5, by keropi

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Regarding the CM-32L and CM-32P , yes you can combine them to make the CM64 , the 32P was made with that in mind.
Grab the manual here: http://media.rolandus.com/manuals/CM-32P_OM.pdf and see pages 4 and 5.

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