borgie83 wrote:

BloodyCactus wrote:

none.

Then why do I keep reading on various threads that revision 00 is the pcb to go for? Or are people getting confused as were unaware that the "Old" MT-32 also came in 2 revisions? Was the rom version changed between 00 and 01 for the old MT-32?

I think most people dont realise there is "v0 old" and "v0 new", and they are just saying, get an "old" revision (one without headphones jack).
Any MT32 is better than no MT32.

The two pcb revisions of the "old" only take v1.xx of the ROM. The "new" pcb revision has a v2.xx ROM. You can't run a v2 ROM in an "old" board.

v1.07 is the last version for both revisions of the "old" pcb.

There is one other difference,

• ALL "old" v0 PCB have v2.0.0 Reverb ROM (16kb),
• SOME "old" v1 PCB have v2.0.0 Reverb ROM (16kb)
• SOME "old" v1 PCB have v3.0.0 Reverb ROM (32kb)

Now the question is, can you tell the difference by ear on the v2 vs v3 reverb?? 😀

There is also the "Blue Ridge" ROM for "old" pcb, which I dug into, its just a hack of I think, v1.06 or minor tweak of v1.07, but you need to do the battery backed ram hack to your PCB for these to be any good (they serve no purpose otherwise!). If you dont do the battery backed ram hack (which imo serves no purpose these days), just stick to v1.07 on "old" PCB.

Thank you BloodyCactus. Exactly what I was after.

I'll need to check which Rom version I'm running on my MT-32. Just need to replace the power supply and I'll get on it. I'm assuming mine will be at version 1.07 given that it's the 2nd revision of the old MT-32. I hope so anyway as from memory my Rom chips are soldered in and I hate replacing soldered chips as I'm not as skilled as I'd like to be when it comes to soldering.

You can always add IC chip sockets for the ROMs themselves. Heck, I have a Creative Labs CR-563-B CD-ROM drive that has a "socket" for the firmware ROM that'll allow me to change the ROM in case it fails (backed it up recently to be safe). I put socket in quotes since it's nothing, but 1 pin socket per row (14 one side, 14 on the other), which is better than soldering in the chip itself, I guess, however, I'm planning on soldering on the socket for the CD-ROM drive to I won't bend any pins when I use my IC chip extracting tool(s) to replace the ROM.