VOGONS


Bought these (retro) hardware today

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Reply 37800 of 39068, by bearking

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Got these cards in the mail yesterday...

1. Maxi Gamer 3D Voodoo1
2. ASUS V6600MX/32M GeForce 256 SDR
3. Creative 3D Blaster CT6670 Voodoo2 8Mb
4. Diamond Monster 3D II 12 Mb
5. Creative SB16 value CT2810
6. Creative SB16 CT2290

The good:

  • the GeForce 256 is working
  • the 12Mb Voodoo2 is working(tested only with 3DMark 99), but when working anything in 2D mode, the screen flickers on any key pressed on the keyboard or mouse click. Maybe it's a driver issue
  • the CT2290 is sort of working, when tested with the diagnose.exe, I can hear the 8 bit and 16 bit sounds, but I can't hear the synthesized music. It has at least one cut trace on the back of the card, but it is an easy fix

The bad:

  • the Maxi Gamer 3D it's a wreck! A lot of bent pins on the FBI chip, but the worst is pin 240 which is ripped off from the chip 🙁. also has a few SMDs missing...
  • the CT6670 has a few bent pin on both TMUs and also on the FBI chip, but nothing unrepairable. Also it has a lot of SMD caps missing form around the empty memory "slots" from the back side of the card. I don't think it worth spending my time to repair this card, maybe I'll harvest de memory chips to upgrade my other 8Mb Diamond Voodoo2

Didn't have time to test the CT2810... I'm a little bit disappointed about the two Voodoo cards, but hey, that's it!

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Reply 37801 of 39068, by MKT_Gundam

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9600 Pro Sapphire:
[img]https://ibb.co/JQ57qJF/[img]

Retro rig 1: Asus CUV4X, VIA c3 800, Voodoo Banshee (Diamond fusion) and SB32 ct3670.
Retro rig 2: Intel DX2 66, SB16 Ct1740 and Cirrus Logic VLB.

Reply 37802 of 39068, by Ozzuneoj

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This popped up the other day and I sent a couple offers. Seller finally responded today and accepted. I'm kind of surprised no one nabbed it at the normal price, but I'm guessing the not-very-descriptive title would be to blame there.

Gainward w32i.jpg
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Based on my research, it should be a Gainward Tseng ET4000 W32i VLB, likely 2MB.

One of these days I'm going to do finally set up a 486\586 benchmarking machine to test all of my VLB cards. Others have done VLB benchmarks, but there are just so many models and variants that there is inevitably some card I have which is missing from them. I now have an assortment of w32p, w32i, S3 805 and 868, Trio32, WD90C33, ALG2228, CL54(24,26,28 and possibly a 5434, obscured by a sticker), what I think is an ARK1000VL (has a sticker on it) and several Trident cards. I have multiple variants of some of them, so I intend to compare them all and post the results along with pictures so that we can see the range of performance between different implementations of some of the more common cards (mainly CL based).

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 37803 of 39068, by debs3759

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Ozzuneoj wrote on 2021-01-27, 17:39:

This popped up the other day and I sent a couple offers. Seller finally responded today and accepted. I'm kind of surprised no one nabbed it at the normal price, but I'm guessing the not-very-descriptive title would be to blame there.

Gainward w32i.jpg

Based on my research, it should be a Gainward Tseng ET4000 W32i VLB, likely 2MB.

Looks like that to me. It's definitely a Gainward card. Hard to be 100% about the ram with such a low res pic, but it does look maxed out. I'd be interested in info such as clock speeds, etc, and a high res pic when you receive and test it.

See my graphics card database at www.gpuzoo.com
Constantly being worked on. Feel free to message me with any corrections or details of cards you would like me to research and add.

Reply 37804 of 39068, by Ozzuneoj

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debs3759 wrote on 2021-01-27, 18:30:
Ozzuneoj wrote on 2021-01-27, 17:39:

This popped up the other day and I sent a couple offers. Seller finally responded today and accepted. I'm kind of surprised no one nabbed it at the normal price, but I'm guessing the not-very-descriptive title would be to blame there.

Gainward w32i.jpg

Based on my research, it should be a Gainward Tseng ET4000 W32i VLB, likely 2MB.

Looks like that to me. It's definitely a Gainward card. Hard to be 100% about the ram with such a low res pic, but it does look maxed out. I'd be interested in info such as clock speeds, etc, and a high res pic when you receive and test it.

The seller did have some other pictures, and one showed the markings on the memory chips. Seems like it has V53C104HP45 chips in the sockets and V53C104HK45 chips on the board, which are 256Kx4bit chips, so it definitely has 2MB on it. Compared to my other VLB cards, the 45ns rated chips on this are among the fastest (some are 50, most are 60 or 70ns). My Hercules VL Bus Dynamite w32p has the same exact 45ns chips though.

Should be interesting!

Hopefully they don't ship it in a manila folder.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 37805 of 39068, by assasincz

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Got an old MX700 cordless mouse from Logitech, complete in box for some 8 bucks. Old and well used, the rubber coating on the plastic turned into gluey sticky mess, as well as the painted plastic was well worn away from sticky fingers. Well I decided to sand down all nasty surfaces with sandpaper which I had on hand. It turned out quite decently. Now I have a lovely large and comfortable mouse which Im gonna use for office work.

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Reply 37806 of 39068, by Thermalwrong

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I had to do the same with my Razer Lachesis about 5 or 6 years ago, it's still going strong 😀

The plastic rubber stuff is nasty - the thinkpads use similar and I found that what can't be scraped off with a credit card can be dissolved with fresh 99% IPA on it, using a paper towel (don't use a nice towel, it will stain it forever)

Reply 37807 of 39068, by Ozzuneoj

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Yeah, my MX500's "soft touch" coating turned sticky several years ago too. Isoproyl Alcohol and a paper towel took it all right off, like you said. Looked good as new!

I've been using that mouse for *18 years* and it is has only recently developed a double-click issue. I actually fixed this problem several years ago too by adding a touch of super glue into a divot that the tiny alps-switch button had worn into the plastic inside. I'd be surprised if it wasn't the same issue this time too. Those old switches seem to last forever. The newer ones are garbage though. Same brand name, but they aren't made the same. I have a small pile of 5-7 year old Logitech mice with defective\worn out Alps switches. Perfectly good mice, and not that hard to fix, but I haven't been able to get myself to dismantle vintage mice for decent switches.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 37808 of 39068, by blurks

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Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Reply 37809 of 39068, by andrea

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blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Be careful how you dress then 🤣 . I had to throw away two nice shirts thanks to the doorcard of a Autobianchi Y10.

Reply 37810 of 39068, by Living

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canthearu wrote on 2021-01-12, 22:16:

but if the nforce 2 chipset was inherently unstable, motherboard manufacturers would have noticed.

it was a mix bag

Over 15 years ago the last 2 Socket A motherboards in my main system were Nforce 2 Ultra

the first one was a MSI k7n2 delta2 platinum paired with an Athlon XP 3000+ Barton 400Mhz + 2 x 256MB Supertalent DDR400 and a MSI RX9600XT-TD128. I could not get it stable in dual channel, no matter what i tried, it always bsod after between 15min and 1 hour.

The 2nd one was an Asus A7NX-E Deluxe, maybe one of the best motherboards for Socket A. It came with a dead memory bank but the 2nd one i recieved was rock solid with the same parts in the MSI. It had a sudden dead after 7 years, typical stuff with Nforce chipsets

looking back i wish a had kept the MSI KT880 Delta-FSR (VIA KT880 ultra), yeah it was slower (about 10%), but it never BSOD, not a single time

Reply 37811 of 39068, by darry

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andrea wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:37:
blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

Half of the dashboard of my car is coated in a soft touch finish. I'm frightened of the day it is starting to turn into glue. On the door panels it has already started... yuck.
This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Be careful how you dress then 🤣 . I had to throw away two nice shirts thanks to the doorcard of a Autobianchi Y10.

I had to look that one up. IMHO, it looks like the fruit of an unholy union between an Innocenti Mini and a Yugo . 😉

Reply 37812 of 39068, by Horun

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Almost bought a MS Sidewinder 3D pro today but the throttle slide was broken, was in great shape except for that 🙁
Also saw a HP external USB CDROM from about 2001 but have no use for one.... nothing else good in the local markets here.

Hate posting a reply and have to edit it because it made no sense 😁 First computer was an IBM 3270 workstation with CGA monitor. 🤣 Second computer a 286 12Mhz with real IDE drive ! After that came 386, 486, Pentium, P.Pro and everything after....

Reply 37813 of 39068, by Ozzuneoj

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blurks wrote on 2021-01-27, 22:12:

This soft touch madness is just a mere micrometer behind touch controls when it comes to the most stupid decisions in car interior design...

Oh boy, don't even get me started on that...

I don't even like how buttons started replacing dials\levers 10+ years ago. My old car was an 06 and the heat\AC\FAN were all knobs. I just bought a 2010 from the same brand and it has knobs and *buttons* for those same functions. The buttons cycle through pictures on the screen, so you absolutely have to take your eyes off the road to make adjustments. In my old car, I rarely had to look. It was muscle memory. As little as I drive, I highly doubt I'll ever develop the muscle memory needed to press a couple buttons over and over to cycle through settings without looking.

Now for some blitting from the back buffer.

Reply 37814 of 39068, by subnet_zero

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I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

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Reply 37816 of 39068, by HanJammer

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subnet_zero wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:04:

I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

P2_233_SL264.jpg

These are not passively cooled. Likely it came from some machine which had additional fans (not directly on the CPU, but anyway).

Check out my AmiBay and eBay for ISA and PCI card, 286/386/486 Pentium motherboards and more.

Reply 37817 of 39068, by subnet_zero

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HanJammer wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:43:
subnet_zero wrote on 2021-01-28, 09:04:

I got this Pentium II 233MHz yesterday via ebay, a SL264.
It is passive cooled, but gets quite warm even if I only stay in the BIOS. I wonder if I need an additional case fan for it.

P2_233_SL264.jpg

These are not passively cooled. Likely it came from some machine which had additional fans (not directly on the CPU, but anyway).

Good to know, it was unusual silent as I booted it up the the first time. Time to change this and threw the fans in.
BTW: The CPU is for this board: DCS/Commate/Tcommate P3-370A/370A-VP - some documentation - missing manual

Reply 37818 of 39068, by RaverX

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Yes, you need a fan blowing air on it. It's a OEM CPU, it was sold to a manufacturer (Dell, HP, etc) only with heatsink, the manufacturer had to make sure they have a case fan blowing /sucking air on/out of the CPU. You can read a bit more here:
https://www.anandtech.com/show/27/3