Mwahahahah.

I went crazy the other day and popped the cap on my Tualatin (IHS removal) and decided to run it naked with AS5! My temps dropped and amazing................wait for it..................wait for it.............0c! 🤣, on longer idle I can see 35c, but still regularly hit 37~38c, even oc'ed! This makes me wonder if HLT commands really help cool a P3-S down?! ALTHOUGH my cpu was starting to get up 40c at times after my last post but before I removed the IHS.

Decided to overclock it also, running nicely at 150 x 10.5 = 1575MHz which is the max this FSB will go. voltage read out on CPU-Z says 1.421v currently. Not too shabby. Don't really care to overclock my V5 5500 AGP though.

When temps get that low you are nearing the limits of what air cooling can do. The 30's are too close to ambient temp.

One solution is to leverage winter. I once put my PC in the window sill and cracked the window a bit for some air that was well below freezing. The computer got so cold that the hard drive started to malfunction. 😁

RogueTrip2012 wrote:

I live in Ohio and keep my computer in the basement which is a bit cold.

And he lives in Greece which is a "bit" warmer 🤣

you know if you don't apply thermal paste correctly and in the right amount it makes your temps go. Most people think it's okay to use old thermal paste, lift the cooler up and then clamp it back down using the same paste, spread the paste and use pea size dot of paste, witch are all wrong.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyXLu1Ms-q4

I added this to my favorites list for just these cases.

cdoublejj wrote:

...and use pea size dot of paste, witch are all wrong.

Using a small blob isn't wrong, right?

I usually put a drop onto the CPU but then spread it around using something I have lying around. Then I mount the cooler.

The Zalman paste comes with a little brush which is very handy for this.

If there's a heatspreader, the Arctic Silver engineers suggest either a line or a drop application, depending on the shape of the CPU die beneath the heatspreader. Apparently the majority of the heat conducts through the metal in contact with the die so it is critical to have a good paste application above the die. Trying to do the whole heatspreader tends to make contact worse because you usually introduce air bubbles if you try to spread the paste on your own.

If there is no heatspreader then they recommend a thin film spread by hand because there's a risk of a drop method not covering the entire die surface and that would be very bad.

I just use a drop and done that so many times, whenever I remove a heatsink I installed myself, the paste always covers the entire die 😉

swaaye wrote:

Arctic Silver engineers suggest

Hehe that's not how their coolers with preapplied paste look like 😜

IMO the paste issue is totally overrated. There isn't much you can do wrong, apart from not applying any...

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

There isn't much you can do wrong, apart from not applying any...

Yup! ehehehehe 😊

Btw, I don't really like AS, I prefer the old fashioned white compound. The AS is a b*tch to clean up. The standard compound is easilly cleaned with a paper cloth and some rubbing alcohol 😀

Tetrium wrote:

Btw, I don't really like AS, I prefer the old fashioned white compound. The AS is a b*tch to clean up. The standard compound is easilly cleaned with a paper cloth and some rubbing alcohol 😀

The older Arctic Silver pastes were much harder to clean up than AS5. I like Ceramique a lot personally.

Mau1wurf1977 wrote:

Hehe that's not how their coolers with preapplied paste look like 😜

IMO the paste issue is totally overrated. There isn't much you can do wrong, apart from not applying any...

Well the preapplied stuff is usually that way although I've seen Intel use 3 separate preapplied paste sections on their heatsinks.

I agree that people tend to get way too caught up on pastes and how to use them. I've switched to buying the cheap Ceramique 22g syringes these days.

Does anyone know why my TUSL2-C reports 48°C in BIOS and 32°C with everest in Windows?
I have more than enough fans in this case
(2x 60mm,
1x PCI slot fan,
1x 120mm (side),
1x 80mm behind the front)

Pentium III-S 1400MHz (Tualatin-512k) SL6BY
512MB SD133 2-3-2-8
Asus TUSL2-C
Voodoo 5 5500 64MB AGP 2x

picture w/o Voodoo 5: http://www.voodooalert.de/board/wcf/images/ph … 45-c4c849e0.jpg

As said before, the processor can idle in Windows, but in the BIOS, it can't - no HLT.

In my dual MSI Tualatin board, sitting in a room at 24 C, with the CPUs running at 1.50 GHz, are running at 60 C and 53 C. Running XP Pro and using the latest Firefox (to get an idea for what load the system is under). They've been running like this for years. I run mine a little hot because I don't like loud fans.

I sort of skimmed over the thread so I don't know if this was already beaten to death or not, but I've found that my P3-S 1.4GHz is a hot running chip and much more of a power consumer (I wouldn't quite say guzzler) than the lower end chips are. I've seen a significant difference on a wattage meter. When I fitted it to a machine that didn't originally offer this CPU, I had to modify the cooling slightly.
Perhaps the cache size is the reason. I know on older PPro/Xeon CPUs the cache size makes a huge difference in the TDP. It's probably the same situation with the Tualatin.
The voltage spec on the P3-S is not abnormally high, in fact I think mine is slightly lower than the original chip that machine used. So I think the added heat must primarily be from the cache.

I once worked at a computer shop where a customer brought his new box in because it wouldn't power on. After opening it up and seeing nothing visibly wrong we started taking everything out. Once we got the heatsink off we noticed something odd. A lot of silvery looking goo around and on the CPU. We took the CPU out and there was silvery goo even underneath the CPU. The customer had used an entire... let that sink in... an entire tube of Artic Silver thermal compound! Several hundred dollar motherboard, gone. About a 900 dollar CPU, fried. It was about the funniest, yet saddest thing I have ever seen. Although I have seen sata cables plugged into an IDE hard drive and had the customer tell me that it worked before they brought it in;)

EDIT: perhaps we shouldn't sell electrically conductive thermal compound to just anyone?

I see...
So the temperature I get displayed (28°C Motherboard / 29°C CPU / 30°C HDD) are real?
Thanks for the replies!

Wait, is 63C considered hot for a Tualatin? I play games with a GPU at 80C.

GPUs can withstand bigger temperatures than CPUs.
My GTX 480 can go up to 105°C
But my Xeon E5450 starts to bake at 65°C 🤣

Arctic wrote:

GPUs can withstand bigger temperatures than CPUs.
My GTX 480 can go up to 105°C
But my Xeon E5450 starts to bake at 65°C 🤣

Perhaps, but GPUs also don't last as long. CPUs almost never die. I think NVidia and Intel write those specs according to different standards.