VOGONS


Reply 16480 of 18988, by HandOfFate

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I did my first component transplant between two Compaq Armada 1750. The system board of the one that looks like new was malfunctioning: IDE controller did not respond to anything (CD-ROM didn't even open) and the tiny Compaq-sized "IDE" pins were also bent out of shape.

I found an incredibly damaged 1750 for spare parts and transplanted the system board, together with it's DC-DC and sound boards and now I have a perfectly functioning 1750, with some extra RAM and floppy drive also taken from the donor.

One thing remains: bending the docking port into shape because for some reason, a previous owner managed to bend some pins and the plastic frame. But I'm positive that's fixable.

Am486 DX4 120MHz, no L2, 16MB, Tseng ET4000/W32 1MB VLB, ESS ES1869 /// 5x86 133MHz, 256kb L2, 64MB, S3 Virge/DX 4MB PCI, SB16 + Yucatan FX /// Pentium III 1GHz, 512MB, Asus V7700 64MB AGP, SB Live!

Reply 16481 of 18988, by dionb

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Been messing around with my PICMG system and it's getting there, under Win98SE at least:

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Yes, that's Voodoo2 and PowerVR PCX2, both working nicely. Took a *LOT* of "banging the card till it works" before the PCX2 started doing its thing and needed to remove my Turtle Beach Montego II to get it there.

Nice D3D frame rate courtesy of the Voodoo2 and Tualatin 1400 😉

Here's the system:

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BabyAT in all its cabling g(l)ory...

Once you remove the cables:

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Generic PICMG backplane.
Adlink NuPRO-760 SBC with PLE133T chipset
P3-1400S with Thermaltake Golden Orb
2x 256MB PC133
Promise SATA150 TX2Plus with Intel X25E 32GB SLC SSD
Creative 3D Blaster Voodoo2 8MB
Videologic Apocalypse add
Generic Crystal CS4236 ISA PnP sound

Very mercurial system, it utterly refuses to cold boot, and gives memory error beeps on second boot, but after a second reset it happily boots on at third attempt.

Never actually run a PowerVR card before. I like its image quality in the demos, but none of the half-decently working games appeal, so this is purely for curiosity's sake.

Reply 16482 of 18988, by gdjacobs

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dionb wrote on 2020-08-23, 21:27:

Never actually run a PowerVR card before. I like its image quality in the demos, but none of the half-decently working games appeal, so this is purely for curiosity's sake.

Mine is exclusively for Mechwarrior 2.

All hail the Great Capacitor Brand Finder

Reply 16483 of 18988, by shamino

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I think I finally fixed an Epox KT133 motherboard that's been hanging around needing repair for over 10 years. Back when I got it I was new to soldering. I had replaced the major caps but it had a shorted MOSFET. I replaced that MOSFET but it was unstable.
Over the past week I re-recapped it, replaced all 5 of those MOSFETs, and I *think* it's good now but I've only used memtest86.

I tested it with a Thunderbird at 1300/100 and 3x256MB PC133 and it eventually froze.
Clocked it down to 1200/100 with same RAM and it passed.
Guess what Epox listed as the highest supported CPU.
My PSU might be an issue, the 5V supply was sagging a bit.
You're also not supposed to run that many banks of RAM at PC133 speed on this chipset, something I had forgotten.

I was going to sell this board off. Now I don't want to. I think I should have one KT133 board around.

So in the search for boards to get rid of, I remembered having a few crappier KT133 boards (different brand) that I really don't want. I got them in a bulk lot in the late 2000s and had been selling them, but stopped because they were troublesome. Nowadays they could be worth something and I need to clear stuff out.
A few hours ago I dug one out (that used to run) intending to test it.
It turned on for a few seconds and a MOSFET smoked. I probably shouldn't have put a CPU in it.

Reply 16484 of 18988, by wiretap

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USB mechanical keyboard mod for my Amiga 2000 -- I still need to hook up the reset pin to the Gary chip, but I need to extend it some to reach since this USB adapter was made for the Amiga 500. And yes, RGB does work on the keyboard. 🤣 So, this is a CIA adapter that I used a USB header to USB Female adapter --> Male to Female USB plate mount adapter --> USB PCI slot adapter to make it have a nice interface on the rear of the case to connect to. No hacking up the case to fit a USB connector somewhere. Just plugging in a USB cable to the USB port on the CIA adapter wouldn't fit because of the Vidiot board sticking up. I suppose you could use a 90 degree adapter, but I didn't have one in my parts bin.

The only thing other than reset which doesn't work at the moment is the # sign. It might just be the keyboard layout needing to be redefined on the Amiga side, or possibly the firmware on the CIA adapter that I need to compile and reflash.

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Circuit Board Repair Manuals
My Project List

Reply 16485 of 18988, by Joseph_Joestar

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Installed Windows ME on my Celeron rig. While I don't have any good memories of this OS from back in the day, I think I may have found a niche use case for it - better WDM driver support.

My ESS AudioDrive 1868F crackles in certain Windows games under 98SE when using VxD drivers. Switching to stock WDM drivers reduces the crackling, but doesn't eliminate it entirely. With WinME and its built-in WDM drivers, the crackling is nearly gone. It happens once on game startup and that's it.

And for anyone wondering why I'm even using the ESS 1868F under Windows, it's a native 44.1 KHz card which has the best resampling that I've heard so far. Even old DOS 11 KHz games sound great on it, and Windows 22 KHz games like StarCraft and Quake 2 sound super crisp. Much nicer than on my SBLive.

Build #1: Celeron 466 / Abit ZM6 / Voodoo3 / AWE64 / YMF744 / SC-155
Build #2: AthlonXP 1700+ / Abit KT7A / GeForce4 / SBLive / ALS100
Build #3: Athlon64 3700+ / DFI LanParty / 9600GT / X-Fi Titanium

Reply 16487 of 18988, by darry

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Joseph_Joestar wrote on 2020-08-24, 14:46:

Installed Windows ME on my Celeron rig. While I don't have any good memories of this OS from back in the day, I think I may have found a niche use case for it - better WDM driver support.

My ESS AudioDrive 1868F crackles in certain Windows games under 98SE when using VxD drivers. Switching to stock WDM drivers reduces the crackling, but doesn't eliminate it entirely. With WinME and its built-in WDM drivers, the crackling is nearly gone. It happens once on game startup and that's it.

And for anyone wondering why I'm even using the ESS 1868F under Windows, it's a native 44.1 KHz card which has the best resampling that I've heard so far. Even old DOS 11 KHz games sound great on it, and Windows 22 KHz games like StarCraft and Quake 2 sound super crisp. Much nicer than on my SBLive.

My guess for the "crispness" would be the lack of or improper implementation of a low-pass filter that would normally eliminate high frequency aliasing noise above the Nyquist threshold . The extra noise, though not technically part of the original signal, can contribute to a perception of crispness or the presence of higher frequencies . At least, that's my non audio expert understanding of it .

Reply 16488 of 18988, by PTherapist

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Today I installed a new PRAM battery into my Beige Power Macintosh G3 Desktop. I'd previously also swapped about some RAM chips, so the new config is 416MB RAM. At first I thought it wasn't working, but then I forgot how long it takes for this Mac to reach the Happy Mac screen. All back to working order, played a couple of games just to ensure stability and booted into OS X 10.4 to do some more testing before switching back to OS 9 which is my preferred OS on this Mac.

Also tested out a PlayStation 2 controller on a Windows 98 1998/1999 PC build, using a cheap USB adapter I recently bought. The adapter is extremely picky, only working with 1 out of the 3 PS2 pads I have, but otherwise it worked fine. I personally prefer Mouse & Keyboard for most games, but it's good to have options and if I have friends using this PC they may prefer to use a controller. The only thing that doesn't seem to work is the vibration, probably needs some kind of special driver so I'll have to look into it.

Reply 16489 of 18988, by waterbeesje

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I was going to go fix (yet another) two Dallas clocks in computers that need it...
Disaster struck me.
Out of cr2032 holders. -_-

Stuck at 10MHz...

Reply 16490 of 18988, by appiah4

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wiretap wrote on 2020-08-24, 11:25:

USB mechanical keyboard mod for my Amiga 2000 -- I still need to hook up the reset pin to the Gary chip, but I need to extend it some to reach since this USB adapter was made for the Amiga 500. And yes, RGB does work on the keyboard. 🤣 So, this is a CIA adapter that I used a USB header to USB Female adapter --> Male to Female USB plate mount adapter --> USB PCI slot adapter to make it have a nice interface on the rear of the case to connect to. No hacking up the case to fit a USB connector somewhere. Just plugging in a USB cable to the USB port on the CIA adapter wouldn't fit because of the Vidiot board sticking up. I suppose you could use a 90 degree adapter, but I didn't have one in my parts bin.

The only thing other than reset which doesn't work at the moment is the # sign. It might just be the keyboard layout needing to be redefined on the Amiga side, or possibly the firmware on the CIA adapter that I need to compile and reflash.

That is just amazingly cool.

Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 16491 of 18988, by OldCat

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konc wrote on 2014-07-12, 18:22:
Just finished transferring all XT-Hercules (or simcga) capable games I own and could think of to a Schneider Euro XT. Time to s […]
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Just finished transferring all XT-Hercules (or simcga) capable games I own and could think of to a Schneider Euro XT.
Time to see now on a so-rare-yourself-and-your-geeky-things Saturday night what actually runs on the 512KB RAM this XT beauty has.
Sorry about the phone photos, I reallly don't know any better way to get a screenshot out of an XT running DOS 3.3 😀
(that amber... it can't be just memories, somehow I love it more than I probably should!)

It is beautiful! I wanted to get one, but managed to snag my Tandon PC in the meantime ( "Childhood Embers" - 286 AT with Hercules graphics build ). I love Hercules yellowish amber goodness.

One kind request: would you be able to add this list (second screenshot) to the thread about Hercules and mono-CGA games: Best CGA & Hercules monochrome games ?

Reply 16492 of 18988, by konc

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OldCat wrote on 2020-08-26, 07:25:

One kind request: would you be able to add this list (second screenshot) to the thread about Hercules and mono-CGA games: Best CGA & Hercules monochrome games ?

Most classics are already there and this is by no means a "best cga & hercules games" list as per your thread requirements , it's more of a "native hercules or simcga-playable games that I enjoyed as a kid" list.
But I'll gladly check my games against what's posted over the other thread and add what's not already mentioned

Reply 16493 of 18988, by Almoststew1990

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Today I pulled together an ITX Windows 98 build. It has an 800MHz VIA C3 CPU soldered on, mediocre VIA UniChrome Pro graphics and mediocre VT1617A sound.

It had one PCI slot and I can either put a Voodoo 3 2000 in there and play some mid / "classic" Windows 98 games with the built in soundcard that is "fine" for Windows 98 but no DOS sound...

Or I can put a soundcard in there and play DOS games with working DOS sound but be limited to early Windows 3D accelerated games on the built in VIA UniChrome Pro graphics .

Ryzen 3700X | 16GB 3600MHz RAM | AMD 6800XT | 2Tb NVME SSD | Windows 10
AMD DX2-80 | 16MB RAM | STB LIghtspeed 128 | AWE32 CT3910
I have a vacancy for a main Windows 98 PC

Reply 16494 of 18988, by the_ultra_code

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It's been a while since I've posted here. Thought this was interesting enough to post.

Tired of the noisy and puny heatsinks on my Voodoo Banshee and V4, I have went ahead and de-heatsinked them with some freeze spray and replaced the stock heatsinks with these nice Titan TTC-CUV3AB VGA coolers and a generous application of Arctic MX-4 thermal paste. While the heatsink barely went on the Banshee, with the holes being almost too close together for the push-pins to bend into, the pushpins go straight into the holes on the Voodoo4. On either GPU, though, the cooler sits not centered on the die, with a sizable amount of the bottom-right of the cooler hanging over the dies.

I might test thermals later, but right now I'm just happy to be able to now use whatever cooler I want with these guys. Soon I'll do the same with my V5, but that's for another day. 😁

Oh, and if you are concerned with what it was like to remove the heatsinks after about 15 seconds of freeze spray, the Banshee's needed a good amount of torque from my flat-head screwdriver to pop it off with a both satisfying and concerning crack, whereas the V4's actually kinda just almost slid off (if you are into that loud cracking noise, it's a let-down; personally, I'm happy it came off so easily). The adhesives 3dfx used must have changed over the years, and possibly gotten weaker in design?

Final note: I used a small piece of coffee filter between the die's green... PCB substrate (?) and the heatsink, so that the flat-head wouldn't scratch it so easily.

Banshee de-heatsinked:
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V4 de-heatsinked:
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Banshee re-heatsinked:
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V4 re-heatsinked:
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Builds

Other:
* USB2 PCI Card in Win98 SE
* Futuremark Result Browsers

Reply 16495 of 18988, by kolderman

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the_ultra_code wrote on 2020-08-26, 16:43:

It's been a while since I've posted here. Thought this was interesting enough to post.

Tired of the noisy and puny heatsinks on my Voodoo Banshee and V4, I have went ahead and de-heatsinked them with some freeze spray and replaced the stock heatsinks with these nice Titan TTC-CUV3AB VGA coolers and a generous application of Arctic MX-4 thermal paste.

I have a banshee with a stock HSF that is dead...how easy was it to remove using the freeze spray?

Reply 16496 of 18988, by HandOfFate

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What was the benefit of freeze spraying? Was the cooler glued to the chip and would this help to break the bond?

I've never had problems with removing GPU coolers before. Just some screws and (usually very dried up) paste that would hold the fan and heatsink in place.

Am486 DX4 120MHz, no L2, 16MB, Tseng ET4000/W32 1MB VLB, ESS ES1869 /// 5x86 133MHz, 256kb L2, 64MB, S3 Virge/DX 4MB PCI, SB16 + Yucatan FX /// Pentium III 1GHz, 512MB, Asus V7700 64MB AGP, SB Live!

Reply 16497 of 18988, by liqmat

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HandOfFate wrote on 2020-08-26, 19:58:

What was the benefit of freeze spraying? Was the cooler glued to the chip and would this help to break the bond?

I've never had problems with removing GPU coolers before. Just some screws and (usually very dried up) paste that would hold the fan and heatsink in place.

I believe they are referring to thermal adhesive like on this GeForce 256 DDR.

Reply 16498 of 18988, by brostenen

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In the process of making backup copies of all my Amiga floppy disks. These are disks from the late 1980's and early 1990's (circa 1987/1992), so I need to preserve the content. For the image backup, I am using an Amiga with HDD and Workbench installed. Running Tracksaver-GUI for the task. So far I am half way through all the disks, only slightly under 300 to go. (two box's are not in the picture)

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Don't eat stuff off a 15 year old never cleaned cpu cooler.
Those cakes make you sick....

My blog: http://to9xct.blogspot.dk
My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/brostenen

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Reply 16499 of 18988, by kolderman

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HandOfFate wrote on 2020-08-26, 19:58:

What was the benefit of freeze spraying? Was the cooler glued to the chip and would this help to break the bond?

I've never had problems with removing GPU coolers before. Just some screws and (usually very dried up) paste that would hold the fan and heatsink in place.

My one has no screws so must be using adhesive.