VOGONS


Reply 18800 of 27168, by bjwil1991

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Tested and cleaned the Wyse WY-2108 system and it lives.

Just need to finish the keyboard converter board (4P4C to DIN 5), wait for the RJ9/10/22 cables to arrive, and it'll be all set.

Discord: https://discord.gg/U5dJw7x
Systems from the Compaq Portable 1 to Ryzen 9 5950X
Twitch: https://twitch.tv/retropcuser

Reply 18801 of 27168, by Thermalwrong

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Urgh, I just spent what feels like half the evening re-learning how the K-618H turbo LED panel works. After finishing this, I checked another place I store documents and it was all in there, I did this back in October 2018.

So here's the K-618H turbo LED settings:

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Reply 18802 of 27168, by Jed118

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liqmat wrote on 2021-04-27, 14:47:

No sir. Just your standard 30-pin. On another note, one of the cheap plastic memory clips snapped from age, but the remaining clip is holding it nicely in one of the slots. The entire memory mounting assembly is one piece so Luckybob directed me to a higher quality replacement that has metals clips. I will be shipping that with the system so the new owner can have a weekend project if they so choose.

Looked a little off to me 😉 - I gotta redo the RAM holders on my AWE - bad news is that I only have straight up (not 45 degree angle) SIMM slots, but the good news is that the banks are at the end of a full length card, and at the top of said card so, who cares, it's not really gonna interfere with anything. Plus the oversized caps already make cards beside it hard 🤣. I've brought that card back from the grave years ago, someone savaged it pretty badly...

Youtube channel- The Kombinator
What's for sale? my eBay!

Reply 18803 of 27168, by liqmat

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kalm_traveler wrote on 2021-04-27, 16:09:

Hi there - which PSU are you planning to use with that?

I have a dual Pentium III 1.4ghz Tyan board that I was trying to use but it seems like two Pentium III's need a very high amount of amps on the +5v rail and I haven't been able to track down a totally working PSU with enough grunt for it.

As for me, last night I finally managed to get the single rig more or less Windows 98SE stable, got Win2k installed and mostly stable so far. Seems that DIMM 1 slot maybe isn't happy so instead of 512mb RAM (256, 128, 128) I'm only running the 128mb sticks in slots 2 and 3 for now. Had some issues with the 'newest' reference drivers for the Vortex 2 sound card but one version back works great. Currently investigating a possible graphics card issue that seems to be mostly related to low color depth but at the end of the night in Win2k I started getting some artifacting even at 32-bit and native screen resolution so it may be some kind of hardware issue/failure.

Any decent modern PSU can do the job. I use various models of Corsair gold rated PSUs. They have served me well with these builds. I am actually leaving the original Power Man 235W PSU in the case just because I think the logo and name is hilarious with the muscle man holding a lightning bolt.

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I did my modern snoozer build in one of these In Win A500 cases. Replaced the original PSU with a Corsair RM850x for that Ryzen build. I did my Socket 370 vintage build with a Corsair SF450 SFX PSU coupled with a SFX to ATX adapter bracket. Why did I choose SFX on that build? Because it took up less space and left me some needed room in that area of the case. I do like to leave the original parts with any vintage case and let the new owner modify it to their liking. The 235W Power Man checks out perfect, but obviously will have to be replaced for a full load. Idling and light load DOS/Win 3.1 (single CPU use) it does just fine. Let me show you what I did to get that hot air out of that case and how I think the dual 300 build should go as well. Let's hop over to that modern build thread and I'll take you through the steps.

__....-->> CLICK HERE FOR A TIME WARP <<--....__

Reply 18804 of 27168, by PD2JK

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Power Man isn't that bad. In your case, it's a FSP underneath after all. 😉

i386 16 ⇒ i486 DX4 100 ⇒ Pentium MMX 200 ⇒ Athlon Orion 700 | TB 1000 ⇒ AthlonXP 1700+ ⇒ Opteron 165 ⇒ Dual Opteron 856

Reply 18805 of 27168, by appiah4

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I loved your InWin Ryzen build liqmat.. I WISH I could have an A500 case as well. My PII/PIII systems were in that case and I loved it to bits. I replaced it with an AOpen H600B when I upgraded to an AthlonXP and it was the worst decision I eer made.. I would pay big moneys for a NIB A500.

Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 18806 of 27168, by liqmat

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PD2JK wrote on 2021-04-28, 11:57:

Power Man isn't that bad. In your case, it's a FSP underneath after all. 😉

heh. I'm really just leaving it in there as a joke. The new owner will most definitely replace it.

appiah4 wrote on 2021-04-28, 13:09:

I loved your InWin Ryzen build liqmat.. I WISH I could have an A500 case as well. My PII/PIII systems were in that case and I loved it to bits. I replaced it with an AOpen H600B when I upgraded to an AthlonXP and it was the worst decision I eer made.. I would pay big moneys for a NIB A500.

Well, that dual Slot 1 build is using my last A500 case other than the one I'm using, BUT I have noticed NOS A500 cases show up quite often still. There was this guy in Texas last year who ran into a NOS lot and sold them off. I would imagine there are more out there to be had. I know it's a niche market, but I really wish these case manufacturers would put out a beige model or two. Black is the new boring.

Reply 18807 of 27168, by kalm_traveler

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liqmat wrote on 2021-04-28, 01:22:

Any decent modern PSU can do the job.

Incidentally, my experience thus far has been the opposite. It is a known issue that pre-Pentium 4 era machines have their primary load on the +5v rail, rather than P4 and newer which shifted to almost entirely the +12v rail. As a result, modern PSUs have rather anemic 5 volt rails and are mostly unable to properly run retro systems. Depending on what hardware is in use, it seems anything less than 25 or 30 amps on that +5v rail is inadequate and even 30 wasn't enough to run my dual PIII rig. I had purchased an old Enermax PSU with 45A on the +5v rail and that seemed to work great, but when I tried to replace all the capacitors it wouldn't turn on anymore.

With the build I've decided to settle on with just one CPU, it seems to need 30A to be happy so I'm going to end up with a modern Corsair HX1200 in it.

Most modern PSUs that I looked at have 20A or less on that +5v rail and are thus not up to the task unfortunately.

Retro: Win2k/98SE - P3 1.13ghz, 512mb PC133 SDRAM, Quadro4 980XGL, Aureal Vortex 2
modern:i9 10980XE, 64gb DDR4, 2x Titan RTX | i9 9900KS, 32gb DDR4, RTX 2080 Ti | '19 Razer Blade Pro

Reply 18809 of 27168, by pentiumspeed

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Today, Received HP Z440 heatsink which has 4 heatpipes that feeds 8 pipes into heatsink's fins compared to Z420's original paltry three heatpipes which still 3 pipes goes through fins. Improved by 20C on same stress test using CPU-Z. Processor is single E5-2667 V2, 3.3GHz 8 cores which is 16 threads total, 150W.

Before installing, I first lapped the heatsink's surface and that needed that. Do not need to go completely and used Noctua NT-H2 paste both times.

Fits perfect and plug in with no modifications in my Z42o computer. Worth the 40 canadian dollars shipped total.

Cheers,

Great Northern aka Canada.

Reply 18810 of 27168, by bjwil1991

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Did some cosmetic repairs on the Wyse WY-2108 system and wrote the LBA even and odd BIOS for the Promise DC4030VL-2 on 27c256B-70ns EPROM UV chips (copied the even and odd, including the eXtended BIOS) and will burn the eXtended one once I receive the other chip.

If anyone needs the files for the Promise DC4030VL-2 for LBA support, here you go: LCS-6941 - BIOS upgrade

Also attempted to get the NEC floppy drive I received today to work and it also faces the same plague as the other drive: General Read Error and Sector Not Found with every diskette.

Discord: https://discord.gg/U5dJw7x
Systems from the Compaq Portable 1 to Ryzen 9 5950X
Twitch: https://twitch.tv/retropcuser

Reply 18811 of 27168, by Jed118

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liqmat wrote on 2021-04-28, 16:16:

Good to know. I have not run into any issues, yet, luckily.

I also must have been lucky - I've converted and sold a bunch of ATX systems to AT (and just did my own 233MMX with a nice new ATX supply) but I have heard of this problem. I only use decent-and-up power supplies for these conversions and so far, so good.

Youtube channel- The Kombinator
What's for sale? my eBay!

Reply 18812 of 27168, by wiretap

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New CD-ROM installed that matches better, installed a CF-->IDE drive in the rear expansion bay, installed Amiga OS 3.1.4.1. Next up is fixing the front panel clips with my 3D printed ones which should hold it on much better. Oh, and a new #9 key+stem is on the way since it came broken off and missing when I bought it.

soQmIVy.jpg

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Circuit Board Repair Manuals

Reply 18814 of 27168, by appiah4

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Jed118 wrote on 2021-04-28, 23:52:
liqmat wrote on 2021-04-28, 16:16:

Good to know. I have not run into any issues, yet, luckily.

I also must have been lucky - I've converted and sold a bunch of ATX systems to AT (and just did my own 233MMX with a nice new ATX supply) but I have heard of this problem. I only use decent-and-up power supplies for these conversions and so far, so good.

I can't think of any AT build that would draw power a modern PSU can't supply on +5V unless it's an anemic modern 250W unit or something. The concerns above are mostly valid for Athlon systems, and it's the first time I heard of a Dual P3 system not booting due to weak +5V.

Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 18815 of 27168, by gerry

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a not so retro upgrade of a 775 system from e1200 celeron to e4600 core duo, old allendale stuff but the extra processing power made a difference notably online. 775 cpu's are generally cheap so worth upgrading even if result is modest

Reply 18816 of 27168, by PcBytes

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Sadly retired my K6-2 500 rig due to more issues starting to pack up. NEC USB would either blue screen or hard reset the mobo, and only one IDE channel works, and in compatibility mode at that.

It's been replaced by my Soyo 6BA+IV machine, not before swapping the V3 3000 16MB + SB Live CT4830 into it, and configuring Windows 98 for the 3dfx & SB Live (previously GF2 Pro + SB 128 PCI)

"Enter at your own peril, past the bolted door..."
Main PC: i5 3470, GB B75M-D3H, 16GB RAM, 2x1TB
98SE : P3 650, Soyo SY-6BA+IV, 384MB RAM, 80GB

Reply 18817 of 27168, by kalm_traveler

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appiah4 wrote on 2021-04-29, 07:52:
Jed118 wrote on 2021-04-28, 23:52:
liqmat wrote on 2021-04-28, 16:16:

Good to know. I have not run into any issues, yet, luckily.

I also must have been lucky - I've converted and sold a bunch of ATX systems to AT (and just did my own 233MMX with a nice new ATX supply) but I have heard of this problem. I only use decent-and-up power supplies for these conversions and so far, so good.

I can't think of any AT build that would draw power a modern PSU can't supply on +5V unless it's an anemic modern 250W unit or something. The concerns above are mostly valid for Athlon systems, and it's the first time I heard of a Dual P3 system not booting due to weak +5V.

I haven't ever owned an AMD rig, but when I first began researching a few years ago intending to build a 'best possible rig I could have built in late 2000 when I made my first all-new PC', it came up quite a bit. Phil's Computer Lab mentions the lack of amps on +5v rail in a number of his videos about building gaming PCs from mid 90's to early 2000's when the switchover to mainly +12v draw happened.

From my own experiences thus far looking at most modern PSUs, you'll find that the majority have very low available current on that +5v rail ~ in the neighborhood of 15A-20A which just isn't enough when you've got a +5v-heavy motherboard, CPU, several SDRAM modules, beefy AGP graphics card, several PCI expansion cards, etc.

In the case of my Tyan dual PIII board, with two 1.4ghz Tualatin chips, 4 PC133 512mb SDRAM modules, 4-5 PCI expansion cards, etc it just wouldn't even try to boot with any of the modern PSUs I tried (including the Corsair HX1200 which has 30A on the +5v rail) but boots and runs just fine with the old Enermax Noisetaker PSU I picked up and subsequently seem to have killed trying to recap - it had 45A on the +5v rail and 36A on the +3.3v rail. Compare that to say a modern EVGA Supernova 750 G2 which has 24A on each of those rails, a Cooler Master MWE Gold 750 V2 which has 20A on each, etc.

The Corsair HX1200 I'm planning to use has 30A each on both the +5v and +3.3v rails which should be plenty for this single Tualatin rig, especially since I'm not overclocking anything.

Retro: Win2k/98SE - P3 1.13ghz, 512mb PC133 SDRAM, Quadro4 980XGL, Aureal Vortex 2
modern:i9 10980XE, 64gb DDR4, 2x Titan RTX | i9 9900KS, 32gb DDR4, RTX 2080 Ti | '19 Razer Blade Pro

Reply 18818 of 27168, by liqmat

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kalm_traveler wrote on 2021-04-29, 14:02:
I haven't ever owned an AMD rig, but when I first began researching a few years ago intending to build a 'best possible rig I co […]
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I haven't ever owned an AMD rig, but when I first began researching a few years ago intending to build a 'best possible rig I could have built in late 2000 when I made my first all-new PC', it came up quite a bit. Phil's Computer Lab mentions the lack of amps on +5v rail in a number of his videos about building gaming PCs from mid 90's to early 2000's when the switchover to mainly +12v draw happened.

From my own experiences thus far looking at most modern PSUs, you'll find that the majority have very low available current on that +5v rail ~ in the neighborhood of 15A-20A which just isn't enough when you've got a +5v-heavy motherboard, CPU, several SDRAM modules, beefy AGP graphics card, several PCI expansion cards, etc.

In the case of my Tyan dual PIII board, with two 1.4ghz Tualatin chips, 4 PC133 512mb SDRAM modules, 4-5 PCI expansion cards, etc it just wouldn't even try to boot with any of the modern PSUs I tried (including the Corsair HX1200 which has 30A on the +5v rail) but boots and runs just fine with the old Enermax Noisetaker PSU I picked up and subsequently seem to have killed trying to recap - it had 45A on the +5v rail and 36A on the +3.3v rail. Compare that to say a modern EVGA Supernova 750 G2 which has 24A on each of those rails, a Cooler Master MWE Gold 750 V2 which has 20A on each, etc.

The Corsair HX1200 I'm planning to use has 30A each on both the +5v and +3.3v rails which should be plenty for this single Tualatin rig, especially since I'm not overclocking anything.

That's unfortunate. Like I said, I have setup numerous vintage test rigs with my various modern Corsair PSUs and have run into zero issues. I am down to just one vintage system now since I am doing a major downsizing in my life and will be keeping two PSUs. I'll call one lucky and the other sparky. They have served me well.

Reply 18819 of 27168, by liqmat

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wiretap wrote on 2021-04-29, 02:13:
New CD-ROM installed that matches better, installed a CF-->IDE drive in the rear expansion bay, installed Amiga OS 3.1.4.1. Next […]
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New CD-ROM installed that matches better, installed a CF-->IDE drive in the rear expansion bay, installed Amiga OS 3.1.4.1. Next up is fixing the front panel clips with my 3D printed ones which should hold it on much better. Oh, and a new #9 key+stem is on the way since it came broken off and missing when I bought it.

soQmIVy.jpg

bjwil1991 wrote on 2021-04-29, 03:46:

B-e-a-utiful.

I second that. Beautiful system. Amigas were such exciting machines in their day.