VOGONS


Show us your retro computer cases

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Reply 160 of 213, by HanJammer

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One big tower with fullsize PSU... Needs some cleaning and off it goes to AmiBay or something...

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This one I really like... it came with 386DX-40 motherboard installed and I think I will build something like this in it (yet, I already have 386DX40 build so for now it lays not used 🙁 )

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And another low-profile desktop... (found new owner last week)...

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Another desktop

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Reply 161 of 213, by HanJammer

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The bottom one is no longer in my hands - interesting case, but not really my taste... PC20 (mint condition) and the other desktop I keep for now...

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This case I gave away to somebody...

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This one was NOS and came to me in original box, unfortunatelly DHL dammaged the package and front panel a bit... new owner didn't complained anyway...

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Some random mini tower... I had to make a new button from a modelling putty (came out nicely).

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Reply 162 of 213, by HanJammer

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Another random desktop... case was looking brand new. I sold it some time ago...

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And the last one for now - Morex Minitower I had since it was brand new. Housed my K6-2 @ P5A build, for now it's empty because I hated P5A performance and I will replace it with FIC VA-503+. This case can be used for both - AT and ATX motherboards which is cool.

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New items (October/November 2022) -> My Items for Sale
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Reply 163 of 213, by appiah4

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HanJammer wrote:

This one found new owner at VOGONS recently...

case2.jpg

Interesting, I have the exact same case and it houses my 386SX-25 system. I doubt it's period correct at all though, lacks turbo buttons and LEDs, I will probably move the system to a more 386SX/DX appropriate case later on, and use this for something else, or sell it, now that I have it thoroughly cleaned up.

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Retronautics: A digital gallery of my retro computers, hardware and projects.

Reply 165 of 213, by HanJammer

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mrgreen wrote:

How do you whiten the case plastic?
I would like to renew old case.

Youtube -> retrobright.

Three techniques are usually used:
- just put plastic parts in the sun for a couple of days (rotate them from time to time) - it works fine, but won't totally deyellow the plastic. Safest of them all.
- use hydrogen peroxide in cream (hair product) and wrap the parts in transparent food packaging film so it won't dry and put it in the sun or in some warm place or under uv lamp - very convenient (you can just put the parts on the windowsill but it's hard to keep track of the process and it's easy to overdo it... also makes some plastics more brittle.
- use hydrogen peroxide bath - put container in the sun/warm place/use some sort of heater/or use uv lamp - safer but not very convenient if you don't live in the house with a backyard.
- some people use ozone generators too but with mixed success...

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Reply 166 of 213, by HanJammer

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appiah4 wrote:
Interesting, I have the exact same case and it houses my 386SX-25 system. I doubt it's period correct at all though, lacks turb […]
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HanJammer wrote:

This one found new owner at VOGONS recently...

case2.jpg

Interesting, I have the exact same case and it houses my 386SX-25 system. I doubt it's period correct at all though, lacks turbo buttons and LEDs, I will probably move the system to a more 386SX/DX appropriate case later on, and use this for something else, or sell it, now that I have it thoroughly cleaned up.

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Yeah, that's very late AT case. I think it may be 98/99.

New items (October/November 2022) -> My Items for Sale
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Reply 167 of 213, by pico1180

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HanJammer wrote:

...I had to make a new button from a modelling putty (came out nicely).

I have the same problem. Modelling putty sounds like a great idea. Doing a little tutorial on how you did it could be quite helpful.

Reply 168 of 213, by pico1180

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mrgreen wrote:

How do you whiten the case plastic?
I would like to renew old case.

I use the hair care product method similar to the one described by HanJammer above.

Salon Care makes a product called "20 Volume Creme Developer". I think the number, in this particular product, 20, refers to its strength. Salon Care makes a 10, and a 30.

I paint it on in liberal amounts caring only slightly to how even I get it. Cover in clear plastic wrap, set it under some UV lights and come back in about 3 days. I got 3 $10 cheapo UV lights off Amazon and set them up to provide 128 degree coverage on the product. I've done two cases and a keyboard to great effect.

One of my cases I forgot about and came back like 5 or 6 days later. Most of the product had dried or turned in to a thick viscus mess. I just rinsed it off and it was fine. I know some people complain about "marbling" or inconsistency if not done correctly. But with this product, in my hands, it was pretty idiot proof.

Reply 170 of 213, by Mister Xiado

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I picked up a pair of systems at a garage sale in a somewhat upscale neighborhood a few years back. Lamentably, the doors and latches on both are missing. This one is a Pentium 60MHz system with everything but a hard drive.

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Reply 171 of 213, by dicky96

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This is my Super Socket 7 Rig
K6-350
Gigabyte GA-5AX
ISA AWE 32

It's work in progress - I want to buy a Voodoo 3 and a K6-III+-450 or 550 to complete it

I don't know what the case is or if it has a brand or a model type, I picked it up at the flea market as a complete PC and built my SS7 into the case. It looks quite striking with the beige and chrome

It matches quite well with the beige PS2 mouse and LG Flatron L1715S 4:3 lcd monitor

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Reply 172 of 213, by badmojo

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Man I love retro cases!

This is my fave at the moment, a midi AT tower I cleaned up and put a 6x86 system in not too long ago. I've been wondering if coating the plastic in a clear, anti-UV product is possible and if so, worth the effort. My other AT midi tower has yellowed a bit over the ~7 or so years since I found it.

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Reply 173 of 213, by MMaximus

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HanJammer wrote:

Another random desktop... case was looking brand new. I sold it some time ago...

Y6_8.jpg

Nice collection of cases! I had 3 cases exactly like the one you posted above. I kept one for a 286 build:

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Reply 174 of 213, by HanJammer

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pico1180 wrote:
HanJammer wrote:

...I had to make a new button from a modelling putty (came out nicely).

I have the same problem. Modelling putty sounds like a great idea. Doing a little tutorial on how you did it could be quite helpful.

Very simple really...

1) Buy some modelling putty - I prefer Tamiya 87145 Epoxy Putty (Smooth, 100g) - it's expensive, but has superb quality. I used Miliput modelling putty as well (it wasn't as good as Tamiya though).
2) You need to make some sort of mold - I use Green Stuff World Blue Stuff for this purpose. Generally I could stop here and point you to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVZLXLaidjQ
3) I use one of the other buttons to make a mold and fill it with putty exactly as shown in the video above.
4) Once the putty is cured I take it out of the mold and use sandpaper, sharp knife and some drill bits to make a finished part.
5) I paint the part the proper color using mix of Tamiya acrylic paints which I have plenty... but you know... I build car models (yeah I'm nerd like that) so I have everything at hand 😉

New items (October/November 2022) -> My Items for Sale
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Reply 175 of 213, by SirNickity

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Hey, how tall is that Enlight ATX case? I might keep my eyes peeled for that one. I like it (and it might even be the same model my old PII lived in back in 99!) but my permanent home for wayward retro PCs is vertically-challenged...

Reply 179 of 213, by bristlehog

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wiretap wrote on 2019-07-27, 03:43:
https://i.imgur.com/QZwmLhIh.jpg […]
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What the?.. PC Chassis with an integrated display?!

Hardware comparisons and game system requirements: https://technical.city