You just had to go pick an FR that's not in the official datasheet so I can't lookup ESR & Ripple .... din'nya...
Not to worry, that happens sometimes. There is a work-around.
In quality brands in the size range of concern all the caps (in a given series) with the same can size have the same ESR & Ripple ratings.
(There are a few exceptions but that is rare.)
Because of that when you are comparing one series to another you look at the ESR & Ripple for caps with the same CAN SIZE and ignore uF.
!! That's how to compare one series to another. "This series has lower ESR than that series" - kind of thing. It's not how to choose a specific cap.
So, the FR you picked is 10x25mm. It has the same ESR & Ripple as the other FR 10x25mm (and is) 0.018 Ohms and 2470 mA.
That's pretty much an exact match to GSC LE series. - Good pick.
I looked at what RS stocks and FM (if they aren't too fat) would be another option for LE replacements.
If you were going to do a partial poly upgrade the LE are the ones to replace with polys.
BTW: Crap brand datasheets are all kinds of flakey. The numbers jump all over the place.
Often you just have to look at a bunch of them on a sheet and say: "Okay they are a~b~o~u~t here."
GSC branded caps (before all the name changing) only came in 3 series. LE, RE and BP.
BP is bipolar, not applicable to typical PC mobos.
LE & RE are both low ESR with LE being the lower ESR of the two.
Early on GSC didn't even mark the series on their caps. You had to go by the color.
Panny has started to do that with the FR series as it's the only black Panny with white printing now.
Keep in mind that near slots you need short caps so they don't interfere with add-in cards.
The usual size to see there is 12.5mm tall but you might see anything from 8 to 13mm.
You should also check if new tall caps (replacing short ones) will cause a problems with CPU heatsinks.
The main rail voltages on mobos are 3.3v 5v 12v.
6.3v and 10v caps both work on 3.3v and 5v so 6.3v and 10v can be considered interchangeable for mobos & PSUs.
Elsewhere you might run into 9v so you have to pay more attention.
GSC RE series are near bottom tier as low ESR caps go. ( LE are a few ESR grades better than RE.)
If you believe GSC's datasheets are accurate (which i don't) the RE series are a tiny bit better than Panny FC.
[Total guess] I suspect GSC fudged the specs to compete against Panny FC and Nichicon PW which were popular at the time.
I've known several techs who's go-to caps to replace those (and similar craps) was Panny FC.
They never had any problems that I heard about, but my preference is to fail-up a few grades to something comparable to Rubycon ZL, Chemicon KZE, Nichicon HD or Sanyo/Suncon WX.
gdjacobs is absolutely right. A 25w iron isn't going to cut it.
If this is going to be something you only do once or twice a year then a 60-80 standard type iron would be fine.
Same-same if you are on a tight budget. A standard iron with appropriate watts will work.
If you're going to do it more often (or just like nice tools) a Hakko 926/936 + tip assortment would be my personal choice for mobo work.
I've used Weller and Pace at work and I own a Pace station but for mobos I go to my Hakkos.
Now that that is written it sounds kinda funny............ 🤣 🤣
This place mostly carries knock-offs of one thing or another but I've heard 4 or 5 positive reports (in forums and such) and haven't heard anything bad.
This is the link to the branch on your side of the pond.
http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/so … derfunction=118
It's also (the US branch) where i got my most recent desoldering station.
I have the older sheet metal (vs extruded aluminum) version that has all the sex appeal of a cinder block, but the specs are the same, it uses the same gun and consumable parts, and it works well.
Those are nice but not necessary. Solder braid (aka solder wick) + some flux is all you really need to do desolder caps.
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